Spindle nut socket for 2005 2500HD

S 854

S 854

Member
Nov 1, 2015
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Centennial, CO
I’m getting ready to replace my service brakes and figured I’d take a look at the parking brake while I’m in there… the only special tool required is a spindle nut socket (correct?)…

As I’m searching online for the socket I’ve found a 4-point, a 6-point and a 9-point (all pin wrench’s) then I found a 36mm six-sided socket… all of them are suggested for my 2005…

I‘d really rather have the correct tool available when I get the thing apart…

Anybody have a definitive answer?

thanks
 
2004LB7

2004LB7

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36mm socket should only be for the CV axles on the front wheels if you are planning on removing the hub. Parking brake is on the rear where you don't have CVs

I don't remember needing anything special to remove the pads or adjust the tension. If I remember correctly, you need a to remove the caliper bracket. I think it was mostly sockets between 16 to 19 mm. Can't remember exactly. Then the rotor comes off and that exposes the insides of the parking brake. Needle nose pliers are helpful for the springs and clips. But I don't think there is any special tools to do the job

Hardest part was getting the tension or shoe to drum gap correct so you had good clamping force without dragging. Had to pull the rotor multiple times and makes adjustments to the star nut until the peddle felt right and the rotor spun freely
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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S 854 said:
I’m getting ready to replace my service brakes and figured I’d take a look at the parking brake while I’m in there… the only special tool required is a spindle nut socket (correct?)…

As I’m searching online for the socket I’ve found a 4-point, a 6-point and a 9-point (all pin wrench’s) then I found a 36mm six-sided socket… all of them are suggested for my 2005…

I‘d really rather have the correct tool available when I get the thing apart…

Anybody have a definitive answer?

thanks
Click to expand...

Do you have a dually that has the rotors attached to the back of the hub? If they are floating rotors like a srw or it is a srw, you don’t need a socket to take the rear hubs off. If you do need to, get new wheel seals and make sure the part left on the spindle is taken off before putting the hub back on (they are 2 piece seals)
 
2004LB7

2004LB7

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Chevy1925 said:
Do you have a dually that has the rotors attached to the back of the hub? If they are floating rotors like a srw or it is a srw, you don’t need a socket to take the rear hubs off. If you do need to, get new wheel seals and make sure the part left on the spindle is taken off before putting the hub back on (they are 2 piece seals)
Click to expand...
Oh, I forgot about that nut behind the axle flange. Bend the tab open and then a punch and hammer to unscrew if you don't have the special socket with the prongs. Mark location and number of turns so you can put it back to the exact same tightness, unless replacing the bearings too.
 
2004LB7

2004LB7

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S 854 said:
This is the hub/spindle nut I saw in a video
View attachment 127273
This is the tool used to torque it to 54 ft lbs… then back of slightly like on a Tapered roller bearing (automobile) front hub…
View attachment 127274

Here’s the complete video with the spindle nut install around the 10 minute mark:

Source: https://youtu.be/buyaHQZOZrU?si=G88qPaVRqGqQPZ4x
Click to expand...
From what I recall. Some of the auto parts stores (advanced Auto, O'Reilly?) have them hanging up on the shelves. Several different sizes

But a drift and hammer has always worked fine for me. But I have some experience with how the bearings feel when torqued properly and don't need a torque wrench. You can also mark the nut and count the rotations. Then just count them putting it back on and tap it tight until you line up marks. This is how I did my first few.
 
J

jlawles2

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Jan 28, 2010
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If you look at the video, you will notice the parking brake can be seen when you remove the rotor hat. you only need to remove the spindle if you actually need to remove the shoes to replace them.

As mentioned, the factory uses a 2 piece seal and the inner is known to stay on the spindle. Hammer and punch (flat punch) hitting the seal gently a few times will stretch it enough to be pulled by hand. Replace with a new 2 piece. The nut is removable by hand and you can take it to the parts store to get the correct socket. I think the one I have came from O-reilly.

If you do pull the hub, depending on the number of miles, it may be worth replacing the bearings.

Also when you put it back to gather, oil the inner side of the seal and spin the inner by hand. Also after reassembly add gear lube to the hub before inserting the axle shaft to ensure the bearings get proper lubrication. I even filled the diff, jacked up one side allowing lube to flow to the hub after waiting 20-30 minutes, then checked fill, and repeated for the other side, the after lowering let the truck sit for 20-30 minutes and then check and top off if needed the differential.

All the axle seal and fill procedure came from having to replace a failed factory seal after 30K then again at 60K and finally at 90K I replaced the bearings and the issue went away.
 
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Nate’s Dmax

Nate’s Dmax

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Dec 11, 2020
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As James said unless you have a dually you dont need to remove hub to inspect or change the park brake pads. Just slide the rotor off and it’s all visible. If you have a dually tho then yes the hub needs to come off even to change the rotar.
 
S 854

S 854

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Nov 1, 2015
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Centennial, CO
Got it… thanks guys…

Hopefully everything is still good with the parking brake at 180k miles and an adjustment will help with the current weak engagement … I can park on a hill, set the brake, trans in park… then when I remove my foot from the service brake pedal I’ll hear the brakes squeak/gronch/pop as the truck rolls ever so slightly to where the parking pawl engages in the trans
 
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