How hard is it on a trans runnin no defuel for sled pullin. I run first second and third no forth.
Allison 6sp: Sled pullin
- Thread starter Huntinducks82
- Start date
Have not tried the tune or looked at my rpms during sled pullin before. Just was thinkin about what i could tear up.
ya the guy who beat all of us in our club was running a LLY with PPE Hot+2 and stage 4 PPE trans throwing rail pressure codes. still would normally have 10-20 ft on the rest of us who all had 500 hp +. i asked him if he was running defuel and he said no, he was the only one out of all of us who could turn more than 4000 rpms too. i thought it was our tires were just more grippy than his, but with your statement, i am thinking he just got up to speed faster and had his ECM/TCM tune synchronized well with the PPE programming
pullin
Knagel I know it's a little off topic but could you post or email me some pix of your loops and shields I need to make some and wanna get some ideas
Knagel I know it's a little off topic but could you post or email me some pix of your loops and shields I need to make some and wanna get some ideas
I took my ideas from Mike Tommac sp? his web site is www.duramaxracing.com. There are pics on there. I will send you pics of mine as soon as I can get to it..... probable Friday or this weekend
Neens................... Wanna look at a tun?:hug:
Neens................... Wanna look at a tun?:hug:
Me with alot of other people were surprised that the truck would turn that high. The silverline exhaust really screams at that RPM. Probly pretty hard on the stock valve trian.
I took my ideas from Mike Tommac sp? his web site is www.duramaxracing.com. There are pics on there. I will send you pics of mine as soon as I can get to it..... probable Friday or this weekend
Neens................... Wanna look at a tun?:hug:
What I want to look at is your signature that says you have a Mike L. transmission
so at 100% throttle, 3000 rpms is 525, 3250 is 462, 3400 is 33 and 3600 is -119. so if i understand this correctly(prolly not) then i should have the table increasing still to 3600?
what does this table do again?
what does this table do again?
Not to throw this off topic anymore than it already is but how do I get my O6' LLY ZF6 to turn over 3250. And if I need to start a new thread say so.
What I want to look at is your signature that says you have a Mike L. transmission
Have already talked to Georund here in IA. I think him and Mike kinda work back and forth, not for certain. I do know he was gonna ask Mike a few questions on a new part for the tranny that is supposed to be like a fuseable link, it's supposed to go first insted of the tranny.Sooooooo, to answer your question to the sig............... um.......... yeah still stock tranny
. Still no problems yet with 56000 mi and 38000 of that with Pat's tune I sent ya. But, I don't drag race, just sled pull...... and farm...... and plow snow....... and truck.... and
Here's your pics.
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more pics
Pics 1,2,3,4 in the first post are of the rear DS. I drilled through the rear housing on the fins on eash side and twisted the flat steel to give it strength. I leave these on year round (as you can probably tell). I believe the rear shields were 8" dia. pipe and the fronts were 6" ( but you will have to measure your ujoints to make sure and leave yourself and inch on each side is what I did. The loops were made out of 5/8" round stock that I just had laying around. Just heated in vise and bent slowly. These were welded to the frame and stay on year round. Make sure your bends allow your front ujoint to come through the loops for removal of the shaft for repair. The front of the rear shaft I made a crossmember out of angle iron and gusseted up the shield as you can see ( if you need more close up pics let me know). This crossmember also make a good place to mount your aftermarket fuel pump.
Pics 5 from the 1st post and the rest from the second are of the front driveshaft. These are kinda a PITA. I made a crossmember that goes from the transfer case crossmember to the front axle support. This will hold the loop (mine is gone because it ws rubbing because my motor mounts ripped - have since bolted new ones but have not replaced the loop yet). Make sure the loop is big enough to let the shaft slide through for maintenance. I used the same 5/8" round stock and welded it to the crossmember I made. There is a notch in the tranny pan that you can mount the loop next to that works well. The shields were fabbed with a support to raise the rear one up and hold it in place. This support is bolted to the transfercase crosmember for easy removal. The front shield was mounted to the big bolt on the reand housing support and the stabilizer bar on the lift kit. This allows easy removal and all these are left on year round.
MAKE SURE you have good (bolted) motor mounts and good tranny mount before installing this. You WILL have sparks at your first pull if you don't.
Let me know if you need more pics. Hope this helps someone!
Pics 1,2,3,4 in the first post are of the rear DS. I drilled through the rear housing on the fins on eash side and twisted the flat steel to give it strength. I leave these on year round (as you can probably tell). I believe the rear shields were 8" dia. pipe and the fronts were 6" ( but you will have to measure your ujoints to make sure and leave yourself and inch on each side is what I did. The loops were made out of 5/8" round stock that I just had laying around. Just heated in vise and bent slowly. These were welded to the frame and stay on year round. Make sure your bends allow your front ujoint to come through the loops for removal of the shaft for repair. The front of the rear shaft I made a crossmember out of angle iron and gusseted up the shield as you can see ( if you need more close up pics let me know). This crossmember also make a good place to mount your aftermarket fuel pump.
Pics 5 from the 1st post and the rest from the second are of the front driveshaft. These are kinda a PITA. I made a crossmember that goes from the transfer case crossmember to the front axle support. This will hold the loop (mine is gone because it ws rubbing because my motor mounts ripped - have since bolted new ones but have not replaced the loop yet). Make sure the loop is big enough to let the shaft slide through for maintenance. I used the same 5/8" round stock and welded it to the crossmember I made. There is a notch in the tranny pan that you can mount the loop next to that works well. The shields were fabbed with a support to raise the rear one up and hold it in place. This support is bolted to the transfercase crosmember for easy removal. The front shield was mounted to the big bolt on the reand housing support and the stabilizer bar on the lift kit. This allows easy removal and all these are left on year round.
MAKE SURE you have good (bolted) motor mounts and good tranny mount before installing this. You WILL have sparks at your first pull if you don't.
Let me know if you need more pics. Hope this helps someone!
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