Oh and I have easily 200+ passes and tons of street testing. I also have always ran light wheel and tire combos.
single turbo setups and stock bottoms
- Thread starter SparkZ03DMAX
- Start date
Yeah, the calculators estimate your power to be somewhere around 680 at the wheels and 740 at the crank, using your ET/weight/MPH in your sig
LOL that calculator is wrong.
PS.
no one cares about crank HP
takes right at 600rwhp to go 112mph @ 6600lbs.
I made multiple passes and beat on my old truck with a s366. Motor is still running strong today. Personally I don't see the point of anything bigger then a 366 with a stock bottom end.
I'm not sure you understand how some of us are keeping our engines alive... An S366 spools very fast and it makes peak power at a much lower RPM than say an S475. By moving the power much higher in the RPM range you are being much easier on hard parts. I tried shifting around 4200 RPM but my water pump sadly didn't like it. I keep by desired shift points around 3700-3800 as actual shifts occur between 3900-4000 RPM. I truly feel it must been a total package for longevity. For example I personally wouldn't take a 150,000 work truck slap on a larger turbo, built trans an expect it to last at 600hp for long. I started hot roding my truck at 35,000 miles it now has 80,000. Lots of fuel with a quick spooling charger sounds like disaster to me.
I agree but a 475 is not a good towing turbo and don't have the street characteristics. Think what the truck is used for and housings have a lot to do with it.
I know that is what scared me from twins is to much at lower rpms. I was always told that rods like low torque and power made at high rpms.
I know that is what scared me from twins is to much at lower rpms. I was always told that rods like low torque and power made at high rpms.
IMHO on LB7-LLY engines you must make a compromise... I don't tow as I run an S475 with very little fuel down low but if I was interested in towing I wouldn't go past 600hp
What is your opinion on the 471s? I am personally trying to figure out what to put on my lbz
Hit the track tonight. [email protected], got nervous for fear of hurting my engine I called it a night. According to my weight of 6920 pounds and 112.4 mph trap speed on comp d's calculator that puts me at 666 horse at the wheels... who knows how accurate that is. Engine is still alive and I'm happy, stock bottom end...
http://youtu.be/kHp4CV5H-yk
http://youtu.be/kHp4CV5H-yk
My old lb7 had a yr of hard dd and 15+ hooks on it at 600+ and had 240k and is still goin..
64mm ihi dynoed 600 on 40% injectors and stock pump . Then added a wicked pump right away, then a 66/74 ihi later..
Now im running a lb7/lml bottom end and hope it holds 100% overs, dual cp3, 463:spit: but like others have said i think detorquing is key for anything over 600
64mm ihi dynoed 600 on 40% injectors and stock pump . Then added a wicked pump right away, then a 66/74 ihi later..
Now im running a lb7/lml bottom end and hope it holds 100% overs, dual cp3, 463:spit: but like others have said i think detorquing is key for anything over 600
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Thanks! I did 12.39@110 on a single pump 2 weeks ago. We only bumped the tune up 100us with the dual pumps.
Yes, leather, full weight other than bumper and hitch missing replaced with a roll pan. Has a B&W gooseneck in her tho! Weighed in at 6920 pounds with me in it and 1/4 Tank fuel.
With an lb7/lly I could see this being the case, but with an lbz/lmm you have a better chance of cracking a piston then bending a rod I would think from heat. Isn't that why some guys throw lb7 pistons onto lbz rods? I might be totally out in left field here, so correct me if I'm wrong.
