I'm new to the forums and the Duramax engines, but not to diesels. I'm a Journeyman Heavy Duty mechanic and have always been wrenching on things since I was a preteen. I've come across a 2001 EC/SB GMC 2500hd with at least one bad headgasket. The truck has 229651km on it. The previous owner in the last 6 monthes installed a new MagnaFlow exhaust, new GM injectors and lines, cowl induction hood, bulldog cold air intake and a new 15k lb rear hitch with air assist rear bags. I've priced a head gasket kit (C gasket) with ARP studs, water pump, thermostat, driver equal diameter manifold, plus the rest of the engine gaskets. I can get all the parts for under $2000 to my door. The truck is going for 6000$ plus taxes and is exceptionally clean. It was serviced regularly where I work. I intend to pull the engine and transmission , put them on a stand an go through both. Is 6000 a fair price? A similar ready to go truck local would be at least $11000 Canadian.
Should I consider this project
- Thread starter LB7Newb
- Start date
An 01 with less than 150,000 miles on it?
x2 to Burn's comment....if the HGs are all thats wrong with it, then 6K canadian is a decent deal.
x2 to Burn's comment....if the HGs are all thats wrong with it, then 6K canadian is a decent deal.
If you're up for it, go for it. Worst case you can find a good running engine for $3-4K…at least thats what I see them for in the states. I've seen some ppl run coolant in their oil too long and the motor was toast.
Saturday I'm going to bring some tools with me to get an oil analysis done to see how bad the oil dilution is, if any from the headgasket failure. I want to also do a combustion gas test on the cooling system. He won't budge from 6000... it's 2500 less than he wanted... I originally only wanted to pay 5300. If the numbers come back promising, I will definitely go for it. Curious on what other recommendations for reliability in the 550-600rwhp range. Head work? Camshaft?
So the oil has no coolant contamination... so either the gasket leak is combustion chamber to oil passage ( oil level hasn't budged from where it was when he did his last oil change) or it may be a cup issue... I've seen cup issues on Volvo D13's that went from the cup area into the oil return passages. Engine would run decent but give excessive crankcase pressure codes. Is this a scenario anyone has seen on the Duramax? Just curious. Regardless I will be working out the deal this week for her.
You can get to 525 with a trans and turbo, and even safer if you put slightly bigger injectors in. I ran a S371 turbo and 60% over injectors on the stock CP3 and did 525 to the wheels. But push more HP than that, and you'll be adding a lot of expensive parts. Instead, take the extra $10k (US) or more you'd spend, and buy a nice used sports car to go fast in. These trucks can go fast, but you pay to play, so know what you are getting into.
Is it just using coolant? That could be a cup, or bad headgasket from the coolant to combustion chamber. Worst case it could be a cracked head, but that is rare on unmodified heads. I'd say you are pretty safe to pick it up.
Speaking of HP claims, its funny how quick people are to say they make 500hp+ to the wheels with max effort built trans tuning alone, the longer ive been on this site, the more im starting to realize thats not the case
I use to love calling those guys out for a race. 90% of the time they have never hit the track or the Dyno but they beat a built cobra mustang or a vette or can spin all 4 tires half way down their version of a "1/4 mile".
Yup. Unfortunately, when I first started upgrading my truck, I was sure that I could make 500hp easy with just tuning.
Now its annoying because I know I need to spend a lot more money lol
I dont see a problem with making 600 on a stock bottom end on an LB7 you just need to get a good tuner who keeps the torque numbers down in the lower rpms and over all really. Its the torque that makes the rods go bendy. My LB7 is making 585 rwhp but only at 1020 torque and has been for 55k miles. Just get an lbz cp3, slightly larger sticks and upgrade the IHI to a batmo, plus you know intake, downpipe, etc...
I have some good news and bad news... the good news is I am now the owner of a 2001 ECSB pewter metallic 2500hd duramax pickup for the sum of 7000 with taxes and title included. Bad news is I'm going to be out of commission for a while because of kidney problems. So now I have a much longer time frame to do this properly.
1) I am looking probably 18 monthes before it will be back on the road. With that I am planning is for 600hp. I will have a budget of 10K US to spend excluding the headgasket/headstuds/head work budget. Rods, compound turbo, billet input and output shafts, torque converter, lift pump, upgraded fuel lines... what other mods transmission wise and fueling wise do I need. I will keep the new oem injectors for spares.
2) recommended tuning?
3) The truck will be the 5th vehicle in a household of 2 drivers. Towing my toys (Audi A4 Quattro track car, my boat or atvs) occasional work, and a few strip passes every now and again.
4) Once I'm back moving around normally the engine and transmission will come out to be gone through. If I can replace a part with a higher quality performance item it will be done... As a fleet diesel mechanic I have a fix it right the first time mentality. I'm looking for quality parts with good recommendations.
Thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated
1) I am looking probably 18 monthes before it will be back on the road. With that I am planning is for 600hp. I will have a budget of 10K US to spend excluding the headgasket/headstuds/head work budget. Rods, compound turbo, billet input and output shafts, torque converter, lift pump, upgraded fuel lines... what other mods transmission wise and fueling wise do I need. I will keep the new oem injectors for spares.
2) recommended tuning?
3) The truck will be the 5th vehicle in a household of 2 drivers. Towing my toys (Audi A4 Quattro track car, my boat or atvs) occasional work, and a few strip passes every now and again.
4) Once I'm back moving around normally the engine and transmission will come out to be gone through. If I can replace a part with a higher quality performance item it will be done... As a fleet diesel mechanic I have a fix it right the first time mentality. I'm looking for quality parts with good recommendations.
Thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated
