ok ok we do a ton of shot peening at work what size shot and kind of shot and coverage?
Anyone want to send me a set to do then I can send them back to test?
Anyone want to send me a set to do then I can send them back to test?
shot peened rods
- Thread starter zf>allison
- Start date
And for the record I want to see a 1600-1700 hp cummins make a loaded sweep on a water brake dyno with stock shot peened and polished 12v rods with extra unicorn piss coating. I will need to be standing behind a large steel plate tho.
I didnt say they use them in 1600-1700hp builds. They use them in 2.6 and hot street builds. He pushed once to know how far they would go. 1600... They held... 1660 they bent. Your more than welcome to call haisley and discuss it with curt if you feel so enclined. He's the one that does the majority of the dyno testing. Especially now that they have they're own 6000hp dyno in house.
12v rods are beefy dude, I would never doubt one making 1500hp. They are a factory forged rod after all. And they don't need to make a loaded sweep when they last in pulling trucks year after year.
Not sure how much it costs to shot peen a set of rods, but for a street motor making under 700hp, a shot peened and polished LBZ rod set might be a viable option.
You cant polish a turd.
Waste of time and money to try to do anything to improve the strength of a Duramax rod. The amount of material, design, and material itself just isnt up to the task of >1200-1300ft lbs.
Stop trying to be cheap. If shot-peening a duramax rod gets you an extra 75hp holding capacity, and then you blow it up anyway, was it worth it?
Ask me how much luck people have had with anything besides a Carillo/Crower rod.
Ben
Waste of time and money to try to do anything to improve the strength of a Duramax rod. The amount of material, design, and material itself just isnt up to the task of >1200-1300ft lbs.
Stop trying to be cheap. If shot-peening a duramax rod gets you an extra 75hp holding capacity, and then you blow it up anyway, was it worth it?
Ask me how much luck people have had with anything besides a Carillo/Crower rod.
Ben
It's almost comical the amount of negativity towards trying to improve stock rods to bridge the gap a little between 600-800hp builds. It's almost like we enjoy paying $2000+ for a set of rods. If doing a shot peen and/or cryo helps at all with strength to give a viable alternative to expensive rods for guys with 600hp-800hp builds, that's a good thing. Until someone does it or someone like Fingers/or a person with a metallurgy background provides some information with why it scientifically won't work, the "it won't help" comment is speculative at best. Even someone doing it and making the rods live at more power won't suffice as it leaves some doubt as to whether that can be duplicated.
The problem with that is there is so many different truck configs to hit 600-800hp that doing so to these rods could work for one guy but not the next. same reason you see guys with 700hp on stock rods and others bending them at 550hp. And the only way to find out is waisting money on having someone test a whole bunch of rods or throwing them in a motor hoping you dont bend them to only tear it down again or worse case, windowing a block.
Im right in this realm of hp. Rods were the last thing i wanted on my mind after bending them at 550hp. Pistons are my only worry now and even then, i dont run the big tune enough to be too concerned though the thought sticks in the back of my mind.
the problem i also see is the variance in rod strength from one to another. you could have 7 strong as hell ones and 1 weak one and the only way your gunna know its bad is by running it.
i have 5k in my motor build, that does not include the go fast goodies i added as well. it was built under the intention of holding up to 800hp, hopefully going atleast 100k with a 600hp DD tune, running the big tune every great once and while, and really allow me to just use the truck as a truck but having 600hp at any time i press the throttle down. I didnt build it to push what ever parts i have in it put to the max, i wanted to live for a long long while i at all possible and at the time, the parts config i used were the best bet for what i was after.
Dude, our stock rods are POWERED METAL!!!!!! That is why they DO NOT respond well to shot peening. You are starting out with a shitty base. No way to fix that. 12v rods respond well to it because they are forged steel.
We were shot-peening rods 35 years ago.
It helps stop cracks from forming. It does not change the yield strength. It's only about .005" deep at best unless you're using cannonballs.
Since our rods don't crack, I'm not sure how it could help.
It helps stop cracks from forming. It does not change the yield strength. It's only about .005" deep at best unless you're using cannonballs.
Since our rods don't crack, I'm not sure how it could help.
I was gonna have my stock LLY's done when the machine shop replaced the pin bushings few years back. The shop, "Fowler Engine's" said was waste of time on those rods. We debured and polished on the beams a bit, then tossed em back in.
In my setup, hooking enough torque to bend or snap them at 650hp isn't an issue... Still Proudly Running Semi-Polished Turds....
Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
In my setup, hooking enough torque to bend or snap them at 650hp isn't an issue... Still Proudly Running Semi-Polished Turds....
Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
Shot Peening DOES NOT increase strength. It DOES increase fatigue life.
What does that mean? It means the part will last several times longer than it would without shot peening for a given load for which it was designed without peening. It will not make the part last much longer if you are adding HP/torque.
Peening also, helps oil stay on a part such as gears to reduce friction.
www.peentech.com
What does that mean? It means the part will last several times longer than it would without shot peening for a given load for which it was designed without peening. It will not make the part last much longer if you are adding HP/torque.
Peening also, helps oil stay on a part such as gears to reduce friction.
www.peentech.com