Service Brake System message
- Thread starter shakenfake
- Start date
Pulled them off last night and both had different charges. 12.89 and 12.65 or something. After sitting for a night they both dropped about .2 or so.
I will be testing with the carbon pile when I get home.
I will be testing with the carbon pile when I get home.
I’m really really sorry about the shaky cam. Familial or essential tremor is awful doing things like this. Filling up a cup at the soda fountain takes two hands
But besides that it looks to me like the battery with “Bad?” On it may actually be too weak? I did do a load test before the one I videoed. Then I realized I should have videoed it.
While the batteries are not in the best shape, they are likely not the problem and it's a bad or loose connection. I'd check both the grounds and positive cables all the way to the fuse box
Yeah I’d say the first one is no good.
Also, I’ve seen plenty of bad batteries cause flickering Led interior lights. The battery doesn’t absorb the alternators charge well enough and causes the surging. New batteries, all good.
Also, I’ve seen plenty of bad batteries cause flickering Led interior lights. The battery doesn’t absorb the alternators charge well enough and causes the surging. New batteries, all good.
Perhaps what I will do is continue to run these batteries until I can pull all the cables out. After I have condemned or confirmed proper function I will replace the batteries and start fresh.
How should I go about checking these? Just pull them all and then look for corrosion? I'm unsure. I believe that the way to do it is put the meter lead at the negative terminal on the battery and then at the ground point.
Is Standard Motor Products an acceptable brand for battery cables? I see that they have the negative for the auxiliary battery for $15 on RockAuto. Not that I am just going to blindly change them all but just in case.
Thanks guys for all the help!
How should I go about checking these? Just pull them all and then look for corrosion? I'm unsure. I believe that the way to do it is put the meter lead at the negative terminal on the battery and then at the ground point.
Is Standard Motor Products an acceptable brand for battery cables? I see that they have the negative for the auxiliary battery for $15 on RockAuto. Not that I am just going to blindly change them all but just in case.
Thanks guys for all the help!
You ought to be able to do a voltage drop test and ohm test to see if they are an issue.
It would not matter if the truck is off or on correct?
Something like this then?
Something like this then?
I would use your battery load tester. Put the cable in line with the battery and tester and see if there is a substantial drop. You might be able to just connect it at the fuse block/ground and run the test there to see how far it drops. You can do that right away without pulling anything out. One good battery in and test at the fuse box. Then charge and move the battery to the second side and test again.
Putting the sane load as your tester will do is the best way to verify the cables and connections are good.
An ohm test will just tell you there is at least one strand holding on. But a load test will tell you how many
Putting the sane load as your tester will do is the best way to verify the cables and connections are good.
An ohm test will just tell you there is at least one strand holding on. But a load test will tell you how many
Some green crusties on passenger cable but the wire looks good. The bolt also on the ground was just about rounded and I decided to just replace it since I had an extra.
Been one month and haven't seen SBS message on the dash. I do get flickering with my LEDs in my map lights though, always random and could be the battery. It isn't bothering me enough right now. I'll put this on the back burner until I can get it back in the shop.
I've been thinking (DANGER!)
So another issue I have been "chasing" on this truck electrically is that the map lights front and rear do not function with the push button. I can click them 100 times and they never turn on. They work normal when unlocking the truck and turning the dimmer switch all the way up. However, once I hit the cargo light during a drive cycle I am suddenly able to use the buttons to turn them on and off like normal. Once I shut the truck off I lose this ability.
The ONLY thing that the cargo light and the map lights share is the G203 ground (at least from what I can tell). Is somehow the BCM not sending ground to this all the time? Are all these things related?
Unfortunately I am not sure.
So another issue I have been "chasing" on this truck electrically is that the map lights front and rear do not function with the push button. I can click them 100 times and they never turn on. They work normal when unlocking the truck and turning the dimmer switch all the way up. However, once I hit the cargo light during a drive cycle I am suddenly able to use the buttons to turn them on and off like normal. Once I shut the truck off I lose this ability.
The ONLY thing that the cargo light and the map lights share is the G203 ground (at least from what I can tell). Is somehow the BCM not sending ground to this all the time? Are all these things related?
Unfortunately I am not sure.
I think that's normal behavior.
On my 04 I remember being able to turn on the cargo light while driving at night to check on the load or trailer. But in my 08 the function was changed. I don't remember all the changes but I think one is they want the interior lights to be on at the same time during some modes. I think the reasoning was to not have white light shining rearwards while driving. So depending on if it's in drive or not can restrict the cargo light
Well say I go key on engine off, interior lights all dim out like normal. Map lights still don’t work with the button.
The cargo light seems to work normal. Just the map lights don’t.
The cargo light seems to work normal. Just the map lights don’t.