Country Corey I didn't know you were from st francisville. I hunt and have a few buddies out there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SDP Twins or Danville 68mm Daily Driver
- Thread starter 06LBZDD
- Start date
X2 with clrussell. I put a y bridge and cold side pipe on my truck before I did my twins and I couldn't be happier. I made sure I did my research on what would and wouldn't work to ensure it would all work and fit together.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I just moved here in February. I love the area so far except for the purple and gold I see everywhere. We'll have to get together when you're up this way sometime.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Last edited:
The sinister was damaged during the wreck. I planned on going with the SDP kit with the billet S475. I'll have to add the y-bridge to the kit.
I live in Baton Rouge right by LSU we should all meet some time
I have the profab up pipes I really like them. Would you go with SDP y bridge or the profab y bridge?
So for sure lift pump, injectors and new tuning.
What about head studs?
Also wanted to mention that Mishimoto replaced both my intercooler and radiator after the wreck for $100 to ship them. I ordered their silicone hose kit. All lifetime warranty stuff and saved me about $1800 with the accident protection program. They just asked for the police report and pics they were great to deal with.
I live in Baton Rouge right by LSU we should all meet some time
I have the profab up pipes I really like them. Would you go with SDP y bridge or the profab y bridge?
So for sure lift pump, injectors and new tuning.
What about head studs?
Also wanted to mention that Mishimoto replaced both my intercooler and radiator after the wreck for $100 to ship them. I ordered their silicone hose kit. All lifetime warranty stuff and saved me about $1800 with the accident protection program. They just asked for the police report and pics they were great to deal with.
Whats your hp goal? You have to duel fuel ect for that correct? I just wanted to stay in a safe range with the twins since I am on the road so much. That's why I was wondering about the head studsbecause once I stop traveling I am going to want to turn the tune up.
He could do 1000hp with that setup.
No real need for studs. IMO just do Marks stage2 3794. Or give your stocker to yellow to have it modded. Injectors wouldn't be a bad idea if you plan to live at that 575hp just to take some stress on the engine. A modded CP3 might be necessary if yours is weak. You really don't need anything else all that other piping etc isn't nessary for your goal. Now if you want it or twins for the cool factor go for it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
No real need for studs. IMO just do Marks stage2 3794. Or give your stocker to yellow to have it modded. Injectors wouldn't be a bad idea if you plan to live at that 575hp just to take some stress on the engine. A modded CP3 might be necessary if yours is weak. You really don't need anything else all that other piping etc isn't nessary for your goal. Now if you want it or twins for the cool factor go for it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
A meet and greet sounds good to me.
I like how my profab bridge fit and works and wouldn't hesitate to use them again. Also, HSP has a nice 2 piece y-bridge that looks really nice.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Kinda wonderin where this is goin?
Have you changed your HP goals?
Glad to see the social side of the forum flourishing
You solve your piping dilemma yet? You really only need and EGR delete, but I vehemently hate the factory Y-bridge and the turbo comes out in my plan here, so it's a no brainier upgrade...I think the hot side is questionable here, you can do it for the eye candy but I don't really feel.like it'd be a "real benefit"
SDP makes good stuff, pretty sure everything Scott uses is stainless?
HSP, ProFab, DHD all make good product
You want it simple and reliable...so, I honestly don't see a reason to change from the stock turbo frame for your goals, or spend the money on a twin kit...keep the stocker, tweak it and run it...Russ/yellow chevy can get it done for you...
Get a set of tow flow up-pipes to bolt to the stock manifolds, they come from ProFab
I don't believe you need to stud the heads, it's a questionable upgrade for this power goal
I'd keep your fuel simple, maybe a set of tips on the stock bodies, those would help drive a larger wheel, and deliver better throttle response and a fatter, more linial power band and allow a more subtle pulse width for tuning purposes...
I personally like to and suggest to run your lift pump feed directly into the engine bay to the factory quick disconnect...it eliminates massive bends and pathway for the fuel to travel thru
The stock CP3 can deliver enough fuel for upwards of 630ish...beyond your stated goals so it's fine, for now
There you go, there is an outline for a badass and "reliable"- 600whp
Have you changed your HP goals?
Glad to see the social side of the forum flourishing
You solve your piping dilemma yet? You really only need and EGR delete, but I vehemently hate the factory Y-bridge and the turbo comes out in my plan here, so it's a no brainier upgrade...I think the hot side is questionable here, you can do it for the eye candy but I don't really feel.like it'd be a "real benefit"
SDP makes good stuff, pretty sure everything Scott uses is stainless?
HSP, ProFab, DHD all make good product
You want it simple and reliable...so, I honestly don't see a reason to change from the stock turbo frame for your goals, or spend the money on a twin kit...keep the stocker, tweak it and run it...Russ/yellow chevy can get it done for you...
Get a set of tow flow up-pipes to bolt to the stock manifolds, they come from ProFab
I don't believe you need to stud the heads, it's a questionable upgrade for this power goal
I'd keep your fuel simple, maybe a set of tips on the stock bodies, those would help drive a larger wheel, and deliver better throttle response and a fatter, more linial power band and allow a more subtle pulse width for tuning purposes...
I personally like to and suggest to run your lift pump feed directly into the engine bay to the factory quick disconnect...it eliminates massive bends and pathway for the fuel to travel thru
The stock CP3 can deliver enough fuel for upwards of 630ish...beyond your stated goals so it's fine, for now
There you go, there is an outline for a badass and "reliable"- 600whp
If you go the twin route I would save the money and stick with the stock cast 475 comp wheel.
Guys love a ported/polished high pressure turbo for their twin applications. There's a guy up in Wisconsin that said it spools ridiculously fast!!
Yellowchevy
Guys love a ported/polished high pressure turbo for their twin applications. There's a guy up in Wisconsin that said it spools ridiculously fast!!
Yellowchevy
If you travel and use the truck do a Danville and wait to see what you think. I know it would be easier to do it all at once for tuning and other things. But it sure takes a toll on the funds
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Kinda wonderin where this is goin?
Have you changed your HP goals?
Glad to see the social side of the forum flourishing
You solve your piping dilemma yet? You really only need and EGR delete, but I vehemently hate the factory Y-bridge and the turbo comes out in my plan here, so it's a no brainier upgrade...I think the hot side is questionable here, you can do it for the eye candy but I don't really feel.like it'd be a "real benefit"
SDP makes good stuff, pretty sure everything Scott uses is stainless?
HSP, ProFab, DHD all make good product
You want it simple and reliable...so, I honestly don't see a reason to change from the stock turbo frame for your goals, or spend the money on a twin kit...keep the stocker, tweak it and run it...Russ/yellow chevy can get it done for you...
Get a set of tow flow up-pipes to bolt to the stock manifolds, they come from ProFab
I don't believe you need to stud the heads, it's a questionable upgrade for this power goal
I'd keep your fuel simple, maybe a set of tips on the stock bodies, those would help drive a larger wheel, and deliver better throttle response and a fatter, more linial power band and allow a more subtle pulse width for tuning purposes...
I personally like to and suggest to run your lift pump feed directly into the engine bay to the factory quick disconnect...it eliminates massive bends and pathway for the fuel to travel thru
The stock CP3 can deliver enough fuel for upwards of 630ish...beyond your stated goals so it's fine, for now
There you go, there is an outline for a badass and "reliable"- 600whp
I have the pro fab up pipes already, very nice product. I love the sound of the truck after the install of the up pipes.
If I did the Danville single 68.mm stg2 ($2400), I would still have to buy a new y bridge with pipe ($650) because of the wreck and also an air intake ($300) that would be around $3-3400
SDP Billet S475 kit with coolant tank is $4500, the cast is $4130.
With the EGT's being considerably lower with the twins I think I am going to spend the extra $1100. Do Injectors and lift pump get Kory to retune with something safe until I get off the road on these Turnarounds.
My buddy has an in ground dyno at his shop in Baton Rouge. I will still get Kory to tune it but I will have access to it. He got it from lightning when they closed down years back if any of you guys are from Baton Rouge.
Must have missed this.
I'm in Baton Rouge doing a huge remodel my truck is still under the knife but I'm in for a meet up.
I did up pipes only.
I'm in Baton Rouge currently also but my truck is under construction too. The pro fab up pipes fit perfect.
I had that setup for a couple years on a stock engine, stock injectors. It was very nice, drove beautifully. Think I remember the big tune was about 550hp uncorrected at 4400' elevation, on a mustang dyno.