SAS Long Travel Project
- Thread starter SHCDMAX
- Start date
Right on Smokin! Looks bad @$$!! I actually just off the phone with my builder and he said it damages mpg. It's also another $1K to gear up for something that might happen once or twice a year? Most likely not going to jump it! If I do and it breaks then I will fix it and truss it second time around! How long did it take u to make that? Show me some pics of your truck.
Here is a link to my build on pirate.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=952418&highlight=triple+dmax
I don't want to fill your thread up with pictures of my build or de-rail it in any way.
The truss I was able to complete on a Saturday maybe 8 hours less I think. It was actually a lot of fun to build.
I used cardboard to make a template of how I wanted the 1/4" plate to fit on there then transfered it onto plate steel and cut them out. Little bit of grinding and welding fit them right in.
I then put a piece of 1 5/8" solid round stock in between them leaving the bottom 1/3 of the round to stick past the plate to allow the truss to roll over obstacles instead of getting stuck on things as easy. Atleast that is the thought! LOL!
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=952418&highlight=triple+dmax
I don't want to fill your thread up with pictures of my build or de-rail it in any way.
The truss I was able to complete on a Saturday maybe 8 hours less I think. It was actually a lot of fun to build.
I used cardboard to make a template of how I wanted the 1/4" plate to fit on there then transfered it onto plate steel and cut them out. Little bit of grinding and welding fit them right in.
I then put a piece of 1 5/8" solid round stock in between them leaving the bottom 1/3 of the round to stick past the plate to allow the truss to roll over obstacles instead of getting stuck on things as easy. Atleast that is the thought! LOL!
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Thanks for the link! Truck looks sweet!! Nice build! I'm not like that bro! We're all here to share and see cool pics of different trucks!!! Well sounds like you put a lot of thought into the engineering and the fab looks solid. I'm sure it will run indestructible!
Hey what did you go with for eliminating the front slip yoke the SYE kit from ORU or did you swap to a 271/273 transfercase? If you have the extra coin swapping to the 271/273 Tcase would be a better choice over the SYE kit.
I'm not sure? I will ask my builder what we ended up doing? How much is the 271/273 case? Did you do anything different with your driveline? Do you need to change anything if the truck is lifted 8" or 9"? Thanks!
I got my 273 Tcase from TOby Lavender at Triple X traction. It was 1200.00.
-It comes with an adapter/clocking ring to mate to the allison.
-The input shaft is changed to except the allison output.
-The case is tapped to except the GM 4x4 electric motor that switches the Tcase
-It will also come with the vehicle speed sensor in it to plug into your factory wirring
- The 273 case is really big so it moves the front output closer to the frame which allows the HUGE 1410 cardan joint front driveshaft to fit without hit the alli
High Angles front shaft is huge compared to a normal Dodge or Ford 1 ton front drive shaft.
By going this route it does a number of good things since we have switched to a live axle instead of the IFS. Gives you a fixed flange on both outputs of the T-case. This way the drive shaft has the slip in it the way it should for a live axle front and rear.
I went with High ANgle Drive line front shaft was $1,000.00. I have enough lift I needed the cardan at the Tcase gives me up to 42* of working angle it sits at about 20* total working angle at ride height. In the rear I am going to a 2 piece steel drive shaft with a pillow block carrier bearing setup instead of the 1 piece alum. Again the driveshaft will have the slip instead of the T-case.
I have about 12" lift will be running 40"s but this really should pertain to your build as well. From what Toby at Triple X and Jess at High Angle have said this is by far the strongest way to go. I plan to do Tug-A-Truck on concrete and go to Silver Lake Sand dunes so I don't want my driveline to be the weak link.
-It comes with an adapter/clocking ring to mate to the allison.
-The input shaft is changed to except the allison output.
-The case is tapped to except the GM 4x4 electric motor that switches the Tcase
-It will also come with the vehicle speed sensor in it to plug into your factory wirring
- The 273 case is really big so it moves the front output closer to the frame which allows the HUGE 1410 cardan joint front driveshaft to fit without hit the alli
High Angles front shaft is huge compared to a normal Dodge or Ford 1 ton front drive shaft.By going this route it does a number of good things since we have switched to a live axle instead of the IFS. Gives you a fixed flange on both outputs of the T-case. This way the drive shaft has the slip in it the way it should for a live axle front and rear.
I went with High ANgle Drive line front shaft was $1,000.00. I have enough lift I needed the cardan at the Tcase gives me up to 42* of working angle it sits at about 20* total working angle at ride height. In the rear I am going to a 2 piece steel drive shaft with a pillow block carrier bearing setup instead of the 1 piece alum. Again the driveshaft will have the slip instead of the T-case.
I have about 12" lift will be running 40"s but this really should pertain to your build as well. From what Toby at Triple X and Jess at High Angle have said this is by far the strongest way to go. I plan to do Tug-A-Truck on concrete and go to Silver Lake Sand dunes so I don't want my driveline to be the weak link.
My rig
So the axle is suposed to be here today, again. I was thinking that I could lift the gooseneck to match the truck. So I could run 38's or even 22.5 rims on the truck and 35's or 22.5 rims on the trailer. The trailer is like 16000lb, so ?
Also would like move the front axle forward possibly 3" or more and just start cutting to make everything fit. Maybe narrow the front bumper or move it forward.
I may know where some even bet axles are.
If I should start my own thread I will.
So the axle is suposed to be here today, again. I was thinking that I could lift the gooseneck to match the truck. So I could run 38's or even 22.5 rims on the truck and 35's or 22.5 rims on the trailer. The trailer is like 16000lb, so ?
Also would like move the front axle forward possibly 3" or more and just start cutting to make everything fit. Maybe narrow the front bumper or move it forward.
I may know where some even bet axles are.
If I should start my own thread I will.
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So the dana 60 kingpin is supposed to be here again today. They already shipped me what appeared to be a dana 35, I sent it back and it became a F-word issue for the guy at the yard. He realy wanted me to stop swearing. They still say they have one and are sending it today.
Lol! Sorry to hear that though!! All these projects we do have many hang ups! Make a thread about your build. Look forward to seeing the picks!!!
Thanks again Kutchey!! If you do ever do something like this and need advice feel free to hit me up about anything! Truck ended out 2" taller then planned. 10" lift. I need bigger tires now!!
Decided to get bump stops fabbed up now instead of later...
Decided to get bump stops fabbed up now instead of later...
