Question: Safe tuning basics?
- Thread starter Whitetail Addict
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I ran 2900 with 45% over injectorsthe stock motor didnt break , well right away anyway
ROFL - I've followed your posts... Your truck is my trucks idol!!:hug:
Im going through a unwanted divorce, and if i wasnt so worried about money and where it's going I'd have a tranny fund back, and some savings for a motor when needed...
Hence the reason I'm being careful....I REALLY dont want to give it up!!! I like the tune!
I woudnt be too worried about that tune , i think it is fairly safe for the motor , trans probably not but it will take it for a while .
GREAT!! I have a really light foot, I only get into it when Im goofing off which is not much lately...most of my driving is freeway....
What I WANT to learn is - how to use fuel based torque values rather than the B0720 values in my own tunes.... I change it, and try it, and it gives it a little oomph, but, no where near expected. I just LOVE how the DIC is accurate when i do it that way... :thumb:
Sorry off topic. Whats the other site? I thought the place was the only site with a free library?
I listened to all your guys advice
I changed my timng to 20* and my PW 2000 at 10 mm3 + I maxed my TBIQ to 100 at 400 rpm + ande maxed the TQ tables
SOMETHING IS WRONG?:baby:
Can someone fix it for me?:angel:
I changed my timng to 20* and my PW 2000 at 10 mm3 + I maxed my TBIQ to 100 at 400 rpm + ande maxed the TQ tables
SOMETHING IS WRONG?:baby:
Can someone fix it for me?:angel:
Wasnt trying to discredit all you guys advice as it is all good!
Just trying to make a point that it doesnt really matter what the max is, It is more where you add the max....I know you guys know this, But others reading may not.
I have had good luck using the A timing table in place of the C table (ala McRat 20/20
On an LB7 this WILL rattle at interstate speeds and a steady cruise. I found more than 6 degrees at 2000+ RPM's steady cruise of about 20-25MM3 of fuel and she rattles, but keep it at 6 and you're fine. I was able to get away with 7 in the summer, but it didn't help my milage any(actaully hurt it some). I really feel like a wimp everytime I read what some of you guys are putting through your trucks. I'm datalogging pulsewidths in the 1900-2000 PW at roughly 158-160 MPA of rail pressure with timing right around 20 and it torques hard enough to twist the left front up pretty hard. Alls I know is my current tune will get from 70 up to about 110 alot quicker than a SUBURBAN should be able to.
I run ~1950mm3 with low 20s for timing for a DDer. Any more and the trans start to slip some. I have some hotter tunes but I like playing around at this level to learn. I can do WOT runs in warmer weather without spinning the tires a lot in 2WD. My truck is to inconstant in 4WD to really tell anything on small changes. I've ran 9*-14* of timing from 20mm3-55mm3 at 1200RPMs with no rattle on a warm engine. Wasn't to bad with it cold(50s) but I was getting some.
I was able to run upwards of 7 on a 80-90 degree day at the 20-25 MM# of fuel range at 2000-2200 without rattle. When I downshifted though or let off the throttle it rattled pretty bad, and below 60 degrees it sounded like it was gonna come apart on me. I noticed that the LLY/LBZ guys seem to addd more timing in there tunes than I can from what I have found in tunes in the tune library at DP. I'm still a newbie to tuning though and have to than TRENTNELL for helping me out.
My old daily driver, tow tune was 1764 PW, max of about 24* timing, and 182 mPa. It ran 11.5 @ 119. Gotta love the 100% injectors. Since running it at the track I have written a few weaker tunes and normally run around on a tune with 1534 PW that would probably still run high 11s.
Gotta love the 100% injectors. Since running it at the track I have written a few weaker tunes and normally run around on a tune with 1534 PW that would probably still run high 11s.