A crank and cam is not needed at that level. Fingers pistons, Carrillo rods, damper and flexplate. Done. Then you have room to grow after you get bored with current power level.
S&S street fighter engine dynoed
- Thread starter gmduramax
- Start date
:thumb: Seems like wagler is “doing cool things” but really they’re just marketing crap people have been doing cheaper and better for years.
Ya best I could find for that combo is $5600. And your still taking a chance the crank is good or isn’t going to become a two piece. Why not start fresh if your going through all that work and cost?
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If you're doing a billet narrow rod crank, skip the expensive AF cam. It's a street motor after all.
I agree with skipping the delipped pistons, although I see their point of cutting cost on the kit of using delipped lb7 pistons due to beingess than half the cost of race cast. As of which race cast are included in their built street engine package. As the rating states 800RWHP I think those are a good match.
As for the crank you’d be crazy not to use at least a compstar forged crank. For the $1540 you can’t begin to do it twice with the cost ofngaskets and rebuilding.
As for the crank you’d be crazy not to use at least a compstar forged crank. For the $1540 you can’t begin to do it twice with the cost ofngaskets and rebuilding.
After breaking a crank and using my trucks daily with towing and the business, I couldn’t justify the down time of it. Putting a stock crank back in is a bad idea IMO.
I dunno what you pay down there for used engines but they’re 3-7k up here. Plus all that time to swap engines switch your parts over. And who’s to say that engine till last any length of time? Don’t know how it’s been abused. Why f$&@ around and not just do it right in the first place?
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The problem with that package is everyone sees it has a Callies crank and they think they’re getting something better than stock, when in reality they’re getting something that isn’t proven that could be the same, better, or possibly even weaker than stock. Just because it has a name brand on it and is sold by the new cool kid on the scene doesn’t mean it isn’t cheap Chinese stuff. I’m not saying it is, but if you think you’re getting a bulletproof crank, I can assure you you aren’t. Stock LBZ rods have been run at or above 700 hp more times than I can count. The Mahle Motorsport race cast pistons have been run at or about 1000 hp and been shown to be rather reliable at that level without the driveability concerns associated with fingers pistons. Unless you’re spending big bucks on a narrow journal crank, anything is a roll of the dice in my opinion. To me, they’re setup is ok, but why use delipped stock pistons instead of the race cast? Seems like a waste of money.
S&S street fighter engine dynoed
Yeah I agree to an extent depends on the goals and plans lol. I don’t think I would run them when I build mine. My trucks a dd and I tow with it max is ever go for 750-800 which is why I’d buy this rotating assembly.
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Yeah I agree to an extent depends on the goals and plans lol. I don’t think I would run them when I build mine. My trucks a dd and I tow with it max is ever go for 750-800 which is why I’d buy this rotating assembly.
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At least upgrade to the Mahle race cast pistons, the delipped stockers is a 10 year old band aid.