I just changed both of my fuel filters. They had just over 5k on them. I found a lot of rust in my cat filter that I put before the factory one. Besides the obvious got bad fuel somewhere is there any way this is from my truck? The tank is plastic and the fuel line between the tank and filter is rubber. Could this be from my fuel return lines or tank level sensor assembly?
Rust in fuel
- Thread starter Hnkstang50
- Start date
Odds are just a tank of bad fuel. I've never seen any rust come from the return lines or fuel cooler. And it would take a long time for the fuel sender arm to rust, as well as a whole lot of water in the fuel. Generally the water sinks to the bottom, so it would never contact the sender arm.
I bet you got the dregs from some steel tank somewhere. But that's why fuel filters exist.
I bet you got the dregs from some steel tank somewhere. But that's why fuel filters exist.
It feels like rust. I've never delt with alge but I assume its not gritty like rust.
Am I foolish to think that between my 2 filters my fuel system is safe or should I be dropping this tank asap to clean it out
Your fuel system is probably safe, but you'll be plugging filters with that crap forever if you don't drop the tank and clean it out. I wouldn't break your back getting the tank cleaned now, but probably plan to do it before you spend too much money on fuel filters 
Ya it would be wise to drop the tank and get it cleaned. Just like they said the filters are doing there job.
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It does stick to a magnet. There may also be some alge mixed in too looking closer at it. Any good method on how to clean a tank out or should I be looking for a new tank. I imagine with just a small opening it will be hard to clean.
If you are going to remove the tank you can pump the diesel into a suitable container and then flush the tank out with Dawn and a garden hose. You can dump out any remaining water and let the sun dry out the tank, it is black, or use a fast drying solvent to do a final rinse.
I would suggest getting some biocide for your fuel just to be safe. Growth in your fuel is nothing to play around with. Biocide is a little pricey, but it's alot cheaper than fuel system parts. I would hit it with a heavy shock dose before you drop the tank to clean it just to be safe.
Thanks for the replies. I don't drive the truck much at all in the winter. With xmas and a baby due around the corner I'm going to try and get it cleaned sooner than later. I'm going to look into getting a new tank too. I looked quick online and looks like new from Chevy is only like 250 but not available anymore. Gona check with my local dealer
I'm also going to contact speedway (used to be hess). It's the only place I have gotten fuel in the past few years.
I'm also going to contact speedway (used to be hess). It's the only place I have gotten fuel in the past few years.
I agree with Burn Down. Whatever slips by the filters is going straight for a money shot. Not to be rude or anything but if you had your WS the sensor could of possibly sent a water in fuel warning.
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I still have my factory filter with water sensor. The filter shown is a cat filter I added when I installed my lift pump. I never got a water in fuel message.
I doubt you had water just dirty fuel. You would believe how rusty fuel tanks get. The steel tanks on our epuipment will be covered in surface in less the a year, but it's very humid here.
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I'm not convinced the water in fuel sensor in the factory filter actually works. Never seen one set the message on the dash without shorting the wires to test it. Even filters I've drained water out of.
I just check the drain every few months to see if any water is getting mixed in.
As for replacing the tank, it probably isn't necessary. You can remove the fuel sender and that's a good sized hole to work through, and it is an unbaffleled tank, so easy access to the whole thing. You shouldn't have trouble cleaning it.
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I just check the drain every few months to see if any water is getting mixed in.
As for replacing the tank, it probably isn't necessary. You can remove the fuel sender and that's a good sized hole to work through, and it is an unbaffleled tank, so easy access to the whole thing. You shouldn't have trouble cleaning it.
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I see no reason to replace the tank either. Shock it with biocide to hreak everything loose, empty the tank, drop it, clean it out with some purple soap, dry it out with some old towels as best as possible, then put it in the sun to dry for a day or 2. The only problem part normally is cleaning out the pickup as that sediment gets in all the nooks and crannies of them. When I worked in a dealer, we would send the tanks over to detail, and let them clean them with the hot steam cleaner they had. They came back squeeky clean.
I have a shock treatment of biocide in it now. Going to hopefully drop the tank weekend after Xmas. The gas station is investigating and may be reimbursing me for any cost to fix the truck. If so it's gonna get a new tank and sender so I don't have to waste a bunch of time cleaning it.
Should be cleaning out the tank this weekend. New tank isn't an option anymore due to being discontinued. Is there any reason I can't use gasoline to clean out the tank so it will dry out fast? Will the residue cause any harm? I'm trying to get it dropped and cleaned in 1 day and it's Gona below freezing all weekend.
Ya you can use gas. Just make sure you protect yourself rubber gloves and goggles. I know that is silly to some and was to me when I was young, but working in the oil field has changed my tune.
Don't worry about left over gas a small amount won't do anything to a tank of diesel. In the winter we use to mix as much as 40% IIRC gas in with our diesel to keep our tractors running if we ran out of kerosene.
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Don't worry about left over gas a small amount won't do anything to a tank of diesel. In the winter we use to mix as much as 40% IIRC gas in with our diesel to keep our tractors running if we ran out of kerosene.
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