I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find an actual torque for the stock bolts, just the angle method, anyone going with an actual number and rolling with it?
Rod bolt torque
- Thread starter WVRigrat05
- Start date
Might check the merchant auto app. It has a bunch of factory torque specs.
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I couldn’t find anything on their site, there was something here Henry had posted but I can’t even find it for some reason.
http://shop.socaldiesel.com/pages/torque-specs.html
You can get one of these. They’re available at parts stores for not much more if you don’t want to wait. The bolts are tty and need to be stretched so a single torque wouldn’t do it.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-...pID=51311wby0BL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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You can get one of these. They’re available at parts stores for not much more if you don’t want to wait. The bolts are tty and need to be stretched so a single torque wouldn’t do it.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-...pID=51311wby0BL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
each point of the head is 60*. torque to 47ft lbs, then mark a line off one point to the rod. turn the bolt half way to the next point on all bolts, then turn to the actual point against the line. this will put you closer than a torque spec.
Rod bolts are TTY so you "should" use new ones. they are cheap and i usually just put new ones in if im going that route. i do know of guys who have reused them before though, dont think id recommend it but will work in a pinch.
I wanted to clarify for other folks. But if I reuse a tty (say an ls rod bolt) I don't dont do the angle sequence
balancer bolt and fly wheel bolts, i will reuse a couple times while still doing the angular method. Guy showed me even though they are technically TTY bolts, they will take the retorque sequence4-5 times without issue. even main bolts can be reused 2-3 times before they are no good. But, personally, when im doing an engine, i dont reuse internal structural bolts like that. just rather be on the safe side.
Thanks guys, I got everything bottoned up, getting ready to put the pans on and start getting the motor back together and running hopefully by next week
I bought new everything, gonna run it 500 miles and go back to amsoil and get it sold. You would not believe how clean this motor was wear and looks wise, I’m sold on synthetic oils.
did you mic out the pistons,old ring's gap, crank journals/rod journals, crank mains with old bearings in place and cyl walls? i know what your saying but looks can be deceiving.
Everything was tight, only bearings that showed any wear was 1-2 and 7-8, and it was minimal, I wish I would have gauged everything. I’ll have the heads on tomorrow eve and motor buttoned up Monday, I’m going out to a job Sunday to get a feel for it, I quit my first and only job two months ago for another job that was less than satisfactory so I left there, looks like I’ll be directional drilling soon so bye bye days off, but it’s nice being home and getting caught up.
what im getting at is you can still get significant ring wear and have clearancing opening up in the bottom end but "it still looks good". stuff you cant feel or see with a hand/eye. main and rod clearances are generally in the .00xx range. thats very tiny and opening up .001 is a significant difference. if you used synthetics from day one and had some specs to go with it, i could agree with you.
btw, im not trying to dog ya Reger. i like synthetics too for the properties they carry and what they hold up to vs reg dino oil.
:hug:whats directional drilling if you dont mind me asking?
what im getting at is you can still get significant ring wear and have clearancing opening up in the bottom end but "it still looks good". stuff you cant feel or see with a hand/eye. main and rod clearances are generally in the .00xx range. thats very tiny and opening up .001 is a significant difference. if you used synthetics from day one and had some specs to go with it, i could agree with you.
btw, im not trying to dog ya Reger. i like synthetics too for the properties they carry and what they hold up to vs reg dino oil.
whats directional drilling if you dont mind me asking?
Instead of running the rig and a crew I just do the steering side of the well, I drill the directional section as per a well plan whether it be the tangent, or curve and lateral and steer the drilling tools the direction they want to drill. It’s two and a half times the money I was making and I’m the only guy I have to worry about, only downfall is there’s no set days off and there’s a lot more responsibility, but for less stress and more money I think it’ll average out.
Make sure you physically can see any underground utility crossings. We use cal bore a lot for directional boring. I had a job pulling 4” gas main a couple thousand feet and they hit a 69kv electric line in the process that was already potholed but they didn’t care to see it ahead of time. It was not good.
what im getting at is you can still get significant ring wear and have clearancing opening up in the bottom end but "it still looks good". stuff you cant feel or see with a hand/eye. main and rod clearances are generally in the .00xx range. thats very tiny and opening up .001 is a significant difference. if you used synthetics from day one and had some specs to go with it, i could agree with you.
btw, im not trying to dog ya Reger. i like synthetics too for the properties they carry and what they hold up to vs reg dino oil.
whats directional drilling if you dont mind me asking?
But without all the dimensions on the OEM assembly, it's still a crap shoot. I've tore down several high mileage diesel that still had mains / rod bearings that were too tight even for new IMO.
I’m doing deep hole directional drilling in the Marcellus and Utica, 15,000-25,000’ wells like I’ve always done just be on the less BS end of it. Working on a drilling rig ain’t what it was 5 years ago, and my back definitely isn’t what it was 5 years ago, recently found out I’ve got 4 herniated disks and it’s getting worse fast.