Return line banjo washers lb7

Summitsmoke403

Summitsmoke403

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Jul 24, 2013
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I'm fixing my return line banjo washers right know in my lb7 and I was curios as to why the torque specs are for them? I was just going to tighten the shit out of them and cross my finger that it fixed them, in a week it filled the crank case after I just had ye injectors swapped...... Any and all help is greatly appreciated guys!


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Summitsmoke403

Summitsmoke403

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Okay so It's been two weeks since I replaced the banjo seals on my return lines..... I have fuel in my crankcase again...... When I had it apart I inspected the return lines and I couldn't find any cracks at all and torqued the wagers down to the 12ft. Lbs. they require. My only other thought would be that I have a couple bad high pressure lines because I got the refurbished ones from Andrew at injectors direct. I'd really like to make sure that is the problem before I spend the $400 on new ones but for it to put as much fuel in the crankcase that it is I would say it would be on the high pressure side wouldn't it?


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kking

kking

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When you tightened the high pressure lines did you run both the nuts down equally? I had this problem plus I over tightened them. 30ft-lb is spec. I ended up having to pull the valve covers off to find my problem. If you have a mighty vac to check the return lines it will save you a lot of hassle. :thumb:
 
Summitsmoke403

Summitsmoke403

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I set the hp lines in the valve covers and finger tightened them Down all the way, gave them a little wiggle to make sure they were seated in the injector then just tightened them down good, ill change the oil and torque them down to 30 ft lbs and see if it helps, I'm sort of leaning towards the cp3 seals being blow out because of how fast the crank case is filling up


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Summitsmoke403

Summitsmoke403

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SSchmi5519 said:
http://duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?p=534983
Click to expand...

I've was that post before and I looked at my engine and it looks like it would be hell to get to the ports that you connect the mighty vac to without tearing the engine all apart even further, plus I'm doing everything with the engine is in the truck. I guess it depends on how bad you want to find your problem. I've considered that maybe the hp lines were the culprit but I'm not getting diesel fuel on the outside of the engine it's just in my crankcase so from my knowledge the only thing it could be is the return lines still or my cp3 pump


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kking

kking

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Mar 20, 2013
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Best way to check with a mighty vac is to pull the a/c comp off and cap the return from the cp3 and pull a vacuum on the return line heading back to the tank, that way you can pull both lines In a vac at once then go from there.
 
kking

kking

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Mar 20, 2013
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Yupp just pull it into a vacuum till you reach 15inhg or pressurize 15 psi.
 
Summitsmoke403

Summitsmoke403

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I was following your thread a while back when you had the same problem, how long would it take for you to make 5 gal of oil? Like a week? And it ended up being a return line didn't it? I've replaced all the banjo washers and torqued em down to 12ftlbs and it's still makin oil. I'm starting to get frustrated with this damn thing


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kking

kking

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Mar 20, 2013
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I'm just glad I have two other vehicles to drive so it isn't to big of a deal, after I got mine back from the mechanic I told him what it was and he just started playing the blame game on other parts. So I found the leak on the return it only took a hour or so to fill up. Along with a few bad reman hp injector lines.
 
Summitsmoke403

Summitsmoke403

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Okay so I pulled the rubber hose off the cp3 and plugged it, then connected my mighty vac to the return line that goes back to the tank ( I traced the lines from where they come out of the head and saw they connected at a sensor and ran up and to the quick connect) so I connected the mighty vac to the metal line and brought it to the 15 hgpsi that I see recommended on here all the time. And it held in place at 15.


So now that that check is in the box. My next suspicion is consisted of three things; my refurbished hp lines that were installed when the injectors were replaced are leaking from being either too tight or some other cause, my injectors have cracks in them, or my cp3 pump shaft seal is blown out.

I plan to remove the upper valve cover of the drivers side and reconnect the hp lines tomorrow and start it up to see what happens. If anyone has any input on this I greatly appreciate the help guys!


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