Replace an injector solenoid without removing injector?

[ninjaneer]

I've been having some trouble with limp mode and the code for injector 3. After tracing all the wiring and coming up short, I removed the upper valve cover and found one of the terminals cross threaded and the ring terminal loose, but still attached. I tried to back the nut off gently, but the terminal immediately twisted off. These injectors were replaced by the previous owner and are Bosch remains.

So, the question is can I replace the solenoid without removing the injector? I've found some replacement solenoids online, and there appears to be enough room to remove the old one. My main concern would be unseating the injector or cup while twisting on the solenoid retainer.

 

[2004LB7]

I have done this to two injectors so far. I had to make a special socket from a metal tube to fit the solenoid. I didn' have any issues with the return line or injector twisting much that caused any leaks.

Is it possible to solder the wire onto the piece of stud left? Instead of replacing the solenoid?

 

[ninjaneer]

I thought of that, but I wondered how long it would hold up, and if the heat would ruin anything in the solenoid...

 

[Max Attitude]

You shouldn't be making more heat with the right solder/gun than the engine itself would produce.

 

[2004LB7]

Exactly, the solenoids are designed to tolerate more heat then the typical engine temps.

Use a high watt, 130w or more should do it, soldering iron. Put a little bit of flux on the terminal after cleaning it up and removing any oil. Melt a bead of solder onto the tip of the soldering iron. Hold the bead of solder to the thermal until it flows onto the terminal.

Then, clean, flux and solder the wire. Now push the wire into the pre soldered terminal melting the solder and joing them.

I have soldered many heat sensitive parts, batteries, etc like this. Works great.

In fact, I think I have a spare solenoid I can try it on too. If you are willing to wait a day or so for me to test it.

 

[bmc1025]

You will have better luck soldering than messing with taking off the solenoid. There is a very small ball bearing that can come out of its seat and make your life a living Hell. I have good eyesight and this ball is so small you need a magnifying glass just to confirm if it is still in place.

 

[ninjaneer]

Exactly, the solenoids are designed to tolerate more heat then the typical engine temps.

Use a high watt, 130w or more should do it, soldering iron. Put a little bit of flux on the terminal after cleaning it up and removing any oil. Melt a bead of solder onto the tip of the soldering iron. Hold the bead of solder to the thermal until it flows onto the terminal.

Then, clean, flux and solder the wire. Now push the wire into the pre soldered terminal melting the solder and joing them.

I have soldered many heat sensitive parts, batteries, etc like this. Works great.

In fact, I think I have a spare solenoid I can try it on too. If you are willing to wait a day or so for me to test it.

I will give it a shot tomorrow. I've got a pretty good iron. Worst case, I guess is it come loose. I can either desolder it and try the new solenoid or cut it and replace the harness.

 

[2004LB7]

I tried the soldering. Works just fine. Seams a ring terminal crimped on the wire makes it easier and stronger. The wire I was testing was your regular 12 awg stranded house power wire. Was a bit stiffer then automotive wire. So if you decide to solder the wire directly to the broken stud it should work just fine. The wire on top of the stud wasn't real strong but on the side so it had more contact with the stud was much stronger. I had to pull pritty hard to get it to start and rip the solder joint and it didn't. Come all of the way off.

I did a little video of the soldering if you want to watch it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxzw6NebzRUhRkZGR242UHNkSFE/view?usp=docslist_api

PS: that was with a 30w soldering iron

 

[ninjaneer]

I tried the soldering. Works just fine. Seams a ring terminal crimped on the wire makes it easier and stronger. The wire I was testing was your regular 12 awg stranded house power wire. Was a bit stiffer then automotive wire. So if you decide to solder the wire directly to the broken stud it should work just fine. The wire on top of the stud wasn't real strong but on the side so it had more contact with the stud was much stronger. I had to pull pritty hard to get it to start and rip the solder joint and it didn't. Come all of the way off.

I did a little video of the soldering if you want to watch it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxzw6NebzRUhRkZGR242UHNkSFE/view?usp=docslist_api

PS: that was with a 30w soldering iron

Very nice... thanks for that! The harness wire still has the ring terminal on it, so it looks like it will work great.

 

[SmokeShow]

Good stuff 2004LB7. Thanks for doing that and sharing it! :thumb:

 

[ninjaneer]

I did this fix over the weekend. Seems to be holding well so far. It was quite a pain doing it in the engine, but I got it done. The joint seemed pretty solid.

 

[2004LB7]

that's great, any photos? :banghead:

 

[ninjaneer]

that's great, any photos? :banghead:

No... I didn't think about it until I had the upper valve cover back on... no way I was going to pull it off again, haha.