Remote Start No longer working/Start Issues

[deadliftdiesels]

Hey guys, new issue and seeing if it's a simple fix.

Brought the truck in to get an EAS/EGT probe installed+Turbo timer and now have a couple issues after leaving the shop.

1.Remote start no longer works
2.truck does not turn over manually 1st try(doesn't even try to crank) and 2nd key turn starts as normal.

These 2 issues seem correlated to one another/obviously electrical, I'm just trying to figure out what connection might be lose/not seated.

Now before I get roasted for taking the truck from the shop with these issues, I honestly just believed it to be a fluke and didn't know it was an actual issue until it happened twice.

Thanks for any/all advice brothers! I'm a noob and learning slowly over the last couple years so I apologize for my ignorance.



ALSO:
I'm getting a U0140(lost coms to BCM), U0121(lost coms with ABS),U0198(lost coms with telematic control module), U0102(lost coms with Transfer case control module)... it seems the no start issue when manually turning the key is when I try and remote start it first. I can also hear the truck start the lift pump ETC when I remote start it just doesn't turn on.

 

[2004LB7]

Lost communication with BCM is probably stopping it as it is the BCM to ECM that manages the remote start. If you search around here, there are a few recent threads discussing the GMLAN communication issues

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

With codes present remote start is disabled.

 

[deadliftdiesels]

Lost communication with BCM is probably stopping it as it is the BCM to ECM that manages the remote start. If you search around here, there are a few recent threads discussing the GMLAN communication issues

Roger does the GMLAN directly affect remote start capability and does the turbo timer or eas require pin out modifications to the BCM(Maybe a loose connection?)

 

[deadliftdiesels]

With codes present remote start is disabled.

I've already cleared the codes and tried. As soon as you retry a remote start it regenerates the codes.

 

[Mikey52]

I believe the ecm, bcm, and a few other things need to wake up before a remote start is iniated. The code for that is the two presses of the lock button, the holding the start button. This wakes up the ecm, bcm, and other modules. The ecm ask the other modules if it's ok to start. If the other modules say no, or don't speak up, then no start.

So the ecm is asking the other modules but is getting no response, that is the u codes. So until you get all the computers communicating the u codes will come back on every start attempt.

If you do a regular start, do you get any codes, if that's not the case, something is not waking up and giving an ok for the remote start.

 

[deadliftdiesels]

I believe the ecm, bcm, and a few other things need to wake up before a remote start is iniated. The code for that is the two presses of the lock button, the holding the start button. This wakes up the ecm, bcm, and other modules. The ecm ask the other modules if it's ok to start. If the other modules say no, or don't speak up, then no start.

So the ecm is asking the other modules but is getting no response, that is the u codes. So until you get all the computers communicating the u codes will come back on every start attempt.

If you do a regular start, do you get any codes, if that's not the case, something is not waking up and giving an ok for the remote start.

Same codes with or without remote start. I believe the issue is stemming from the no crank no start and its doing the same thing in remote start mode thus generating identical codes. If it is the BCM causing the issue I wouldn't really know where to start. I never had this issue prior to these upgrades...

I know there are some taps in fuse box under the hood now and the EAS is directly hooked up to the EDGE HDMI which plugs into the OBDII. Just unsure what to start unplugging tbh.

 

[Ron Nielson]

Narrow the search for the problem. Unplug anything that is attached to your DLC. See if the problem changes or goes away. See where your taps in the fusebox are and change them to another source. You know it worked when you took it in and now it doesn't, what did they touch?? That's where the problem is.

 

[deadliftdiesels]

Narrow the search for the problem. Unplug anything that is attached to your DLC. See if the problem changes or goes away. See where your taps in the fusebox are and change them to another source. You know it worked when you took it in and now it doesn't, what did they touch?? That's where the problem is.

Thank you Ron. It does appear that the (2) new taps added are from existing fuse inserts. Do you think they could be drawing more power/disrupting the circuit with excessive transient voltage causing the issue? I'm unable to try unplugging/returning to stock ATM but would that be the best move forward?

Backbay diesel in VB is pretty reputable and are a good diesel mechanic shop so im just surprised this one went under their noses. You think they could have used the wrong location to tap under the fuse box?

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Load test both batteries.

 

[Ron Nielson]

At this point, I would go back to the installing shop and ask them to troubleshoot the problem. I can only GUESS as to what the problem MIGHT be. The shop can actually test the system and see the results.

A different poster with an engine code problem found that when his lift pump tap was removed, the problem went away. I don't know why that would happen but it is proof that there is a problem and possibly with the tap location, but maybe elsewhere. He installed the pump and tap at the lift pump manufacturer location and many, many people have done the same without problems.