Roger.The dealership will sell you a harness or you can buy the plugs and rewire them yourself.
Yes. You want to check resistance between the pins and that you only have power on the supply pin. Ground on the ground pin and nothing on the return signal pin. A short between two wires will show low resistance between two pinsSo I'm going to check continuity and output on the pigtail
FYI, only buy GM sensors. No parts store brand, not amazon specials etc, stick to GM.OK
Thanks for all the help
I checked the power pin on the plug-in. 5 volts
Ground was continuous with vehicle ground
of course sending pin on the plug was dead
Unhooked the connector and scanner threw a P0700 map pressure too low
So I put the old sensor back in and test drove-full power, no codes.
Amazon had many reviews of new sensors being bad, they will get one more.
I might put an o-ring where they old sensor sits on the intake, the rubber sealing piece is pretty compromised.
And I am keeping that "slope" scanner. It worked. Also my fuel gauge is now correct.
Gots my fingers crossed and thanks for all the help!
YepFYI, only buy GM sensors. No parts store brand, not amazon specials etc, stick to GM.
I've learned that lesson the hard way too many times which is why we will only use genuine GM sensors.
Codes? If it's going into reduced power there WILL be some sort of code.
Yeah, I've seen it on LMLs where they'll derate etc and never throw a code but I have never seen that behavior from LMM. Every time I've had an LMM limp/derate it's thrown a code but I also certainly haven't seen it all tho.LMM might actually code every time (not real confident in that) but a LML will go into reduced power / derate, throw a light, tell you you got 99 or 50 miles left till 4mph max speed AND have 0 codes. Literally just dealt with that this past week