recipe for a pulling truck

[tobyk321]

so this year I'm gonna dedicate my truck to pulling in the USA east series. so what i was thinking if can get the funds together I'm gonna get a cheetah turbo 70mm and either mod my own cp3 or buy a modded one. my only worry is that i could end up killing my rods just want some advice from you guys on weather or not this would be a good idea or should i just stick with what i got. thanks

 

[JOHNBOY]

Full Pull Productions USA East?

What class?

 

[tobyk321]

yeah full pull productions, i was looking at the rules and it seemed that the street legal diesel class is 2.6 turbo so i should be ok with the cheetah turbo right? i could have read it wrong though

 

[JOHNBOY]

You would want a 66mm Cheetah. 70mm = 2.756 66mm = 2.598

A 66mm Cheetah, modded reg, lift pump, trans, sleeves, good short hitch, and e-locker.

That should be a strong combo.

The Street class is a no front hanging weight class so an e- locker is very important. In a no hanging weight class you need to drive the truck more so than with front hanging weight. It is very easy to spin out to soon with no hanging weight.

 

[tobyk321]

OK so all i really need save the money for is the turbo, fuel pressure regulator, and the e-locker all the other stuff i already have. i did finally realize that my crew cab long bed isn't to good for drag racing

 

[JOHNBOY]

OK so all i really need save the money for is the turbo, fuel pressure regulator, and the e-locker all the other stuff i already have. i did finally realize that my crew cab long bed isn't to good for drag racing

But it is the shit for a no front hanging weight class.

 

[tobyk321]

that was my thinking its a big heavy S.O.B. but at least it'll be good for something

 

[sweetdiesel]

what about traction bars?

 

[duramaxin14]

what about traction bars?

Yes tracton bars are very important u deffantly wanna save the fund for traction bars

 

[tobyk321]

well being a farmer i was gonna be pulling the truck into the shop soon to fab up some homebuilt traction bars and a good strong hitch and maybe some stops for the back. i was also thinking of building some spacers for the torsion bar bolts so when i take them out to pull and then when i go to put them back in i can just run em up till i hit the spacers. this way i don't have be down under the truck for to long measuring the bolts to get back to where they were.

 

[tobyk321]

so with the bigger turbo and the added fuel do you think i will somewhat safe with stock rods?

 

[SmokeShow]

for a while it should be... of course, NOTHING is guarantied though.

 

[trailerpro]

so with the bigger turbo and the added fuel do you think i will somewhat safe with stock rods?

God I hope so! That's basically what we're running this year. Isn't Full Pull's schedule a little far for you to drive? Mostly western PA.

 

[02freighttrain]

If you run in 3rd gear and don't shift 4th your rods should be ok. If you make enough power to pull 4th and use it, the rods will not like the lug at the end of the pull. IMHO; In any event you will probably be ok, but there are no guaranties when you play over 500 hp.

 

[sweetdiesel]

well being a farmer i was gonna be pulling the truck into the shop soon to fab up some homebuilt traction bars and a good strong hitch and maybe some stops for the back. i was also thinking of building some spacers for the torsion bar bolts so when i take them out to pull and then when i go to put them back in i can just run em up till i hit the spacers. this way i don't have be down under the truck for to long measuring the bolts to get back to where they were.

I like the spacers ,but I also take a grinder and mark one side of the bolt and I still count the turns.

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

so with the bigger turbo and the added fuel do you think i will somewhat safe with stock rods?

should be, i dont think a single cp3 can do rod damage

 

[LBZ]

Good Luck TobyK. I'm planning to start pulling this year in the ATPA so it will be a new thing for me too. Traction bars are about all I need/can do. The class up here is pretty lame due to the fact they don't have any scales so all trucks are classed by mods. No hanging weights permitted. Not even sure if I can run an E-Locker.

 

[tobyk321]

God I hope so! That's basically what we're running this year. Isn't Full Pull's schedule a little far for you to drive? Mostly western PA.

yeah it is a bit of a drive for most of it but it seems like its my only option, unless you guys know of another series thats closer to jersey

 

[Bluemax]

I like the spacers ,but I also take a grinder and mark one side of the bolt and I still count the turns.

I went to the local farm supply store and got some sleeves and measured each bolt and cut them down. also counted the turns, but at the end of the year the truck didn't sit level anymore. just FYI
Also using a lot of oil and a jack when screwing the bolts in and out will help a bunch. I can't seem to make the bolts last when I screw them up and down at all the pulls. they wear out pretty fast. I was screwing mine back up at a pull last year and the threads striped and shoved my hand back down into the ground when the bolt came back out dropped and the truck came back down... it was not cool. Lucky for me it was just high enough I dug some of the gravel out around my hand to get it out why the guy under there with me pushed up the truck with his legs. I'm glad he was a quick thinker. But my hand was pretty sore for a while. I use a regular breaker bar and socket now, no more impact for me I'll take the extra time to keep my hand in the air and not the ground.

 

[LBZ]

I put a jack underneath and the lift the truck up to take the weight off of the T bars-it helps a little.