Rear set up

[1SloLMM]

In the process of redoing the rear shocks. Anyone have any opinions or see anything I should change?

Mounts in the axel are 10* forward to compensate for drop hangers and then a little for torquing.

 

[1SloLMM]

Ttt

 

[lutzjk913]

I don't anything about the shocks or the angle but I would tend to that frame while it's there.

 

[OregonDMAX]

I cant say for sure if its good or not but i like it. I want to do something similar.

 

[nmband13]

the more vertical the shock, the better is it for drag racing. also both being behind the axle. I'll be doing the same this winter. Looks good

 

[1SloLMM]

Well to bring this back up, this probably one month project turned almost a year now. heres some updated pictures. Anyone see any problems that could arise?

First I'll just share a couple of the notches i did:

 

[gmduramax]

Check for wheel hop under braking when it's done.

 

[1SloLMM]

Just wanted to make sure the pictures worked. Here's the other part for any problems. The wood represents a fuel cell ill be having made, and im considering notching out the bracket holding the FASS so i can raise it up a bit more and get it in closer to the tubing.

 

[OregonDMAX]

Holy shit those c-notch brackets are thick

Really like what you are doing. Is a rear mount cell like that legal in NHRA, i mean how low is it going to hang...

 

[1SloLMM]

I made them out of 3/4 so no one could look at it and think it weakened the frame if i ever had to sell it. I made them a little deeper then I probably need as I couldn't even get the axle to touch the notch fully compressed with ratchet straps and maxing out the caltracs. I'll probably be lifting the rear one hole as I probably can match it with the front coil overs and 2 inch drop spindles I have yet to install. Really on need of a low profile tranny cross member after that.

I don't know on the rules. I don't really plan to go to any big races with the truck. I seen something in another post that it just can't hang below the body itself. The one I drew up is only a couple inches below the frame according to my fancy wood mock up. If it gets too complicated I'll just get a short box tank and weld in the cross member.

 

[OregonDMAX]

I'd be more concerned about say a local track not letting me on that day a big NHRDA event.

Brackets look good though plenty strong

 

[WisconsinHick1]

I'll sell you my fuel cell out of my truck. I probably won't be able to use it on my new setup

 

[Chevy1925]

That's a lot of steel to get a good weld to penetrate it and not over heat the frame steel. Steel is only as goo as the weld in this instance.

There a reason you are staying spring over? (Maybe I didn't read enough of the thread)

 

[1SloLMM]

Thanks OregonDMAX I'll have to look into the rules more. The way it's looking though I don't know if it will ever get out of the garage again. I'm looking at having Rhodes race cars make one up for me. I wanted to buy their 69 camaro tank and try to have a behind the license plate filler but doesn t quite work unless I mount it really low.

Eric, What were the dimensions of it again?

James, I have them all welded up already and they seemed to take pretty good with what I have available to weld them with. I made sure to weld it all around and concentrate the puddle more so on the notches and then bring it over to the frame. I'm just stayng with axle under for the ease of things and cal Tracs. I can't really go any lower and will actually have to go back up a bit to match the front I believe. Maybe even more if those spindles make the CVS too negative.

 

[Chevy1925]

10-4. i wouldnt fret about the fuel cell. ive seen them much lower in race trucks and still pass tech. just keep the fuel lines from being first contact with the ground if you run a backward facing sump drawn from the bottom of the tank. if you use a pick up style that comes out the top, wont be an issue. the fuel cell im mounting in our cummins will have the top flush to the frame rails and bottom down past the rails more than yours. truck isnt as low as yours though.

 

[WisconsinHick1]

Eric, What were the dimensions of it again?

I'll try to remember to get measurement tonight when I get home.

 

[1SloLMM]

Anyone know of a hefty frame mount battery Box? I'd like to get everything out of the bed. Needs to be strong because I switch to a single diehard platinum marine battery. It's a group 31 and weights about 75 pounds I believe

 

[OregonDMAX]

Ruff stuff specialties makes a pretty beefy one for off-road setups

 

[Chevy1925]

ruff stuff, artec, kibbletech, ballistic fab, rustys off road, and SDHQ just to name one or two :roflmao:

BUT those are all mainly built around optima, deka, or odessy AGM style batts. not sure where a group 31 falls in dimension but it may be hard to buy a box that fits unless you scower summit racing

 

[1SloLMM]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I believe I will be getting the artec box since they make the correct size.

Another topic I can't find much on, weight (for 4x4 atleast), since the front of these trucks are so heavy how much does it help to move weight back? Is it most effective to move it as far back on the frame as possible or would moving it to at least behind the cab work just as well? Should I move stuff back but hang it off the driver side frame rail to help keep that side down a little better or will the shocks eliminate that either way? I planned to hand the battery somewhere just before the rear end but if really helps I'll try to fit it into the puzzle behind the rear end. At 75 pounds it's probably the same weight as the two up front.

I always see tiny cells and batteries in the big power trucks, is it because they just have the power and traction to transfer all the front end weight to the rear or just hope the traction holds with sticky tires. I go through different scenarios in my head but if like some knowledge from the pros.