Rear Seat lift to accommodate sub box??

J_Stone06

Wasn't me...🥴
Oct 13, 2012
347
3
18
Nowhere, KS
So, I've been pondering putting 4x 8" subs under the rear seat. With that, I'm really thinking I'll be needing to lift it to facilitate a bigger box and being able to forward fire the subs. I'm wanting to get my arts and crafts on and try my old school hand at making a box with 3/4 MDF and throwing my own twist on it. Anyway, what brand rear seat lift kits have yall ran or would you recommend? I'm also assuming I'd have to change the head unit out to facilitate running new RCAs, remote wire, etc.. any ideas/ recommendations/previous builds welcomed...Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
4,081
252
83
Nor cal
Kit? Just weld two 1”1/2 pieces of angle iron together. You can use a pac adapter that plugs into the head unit to add rca and remote wire. Does it have bose? If so you can just tap the low level wires coming out of the head unit.
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
4,918
497
83
TX of course
I'm the only one that ever lifted the seat that I know of on a Crewcab. I did 2" of pipe weld on a cap on one end and welded the other to the bottom of the seat frame, but my truck is an 06. I was going to complete in in SQL comps, but lost interest before building a tuned box. If I was to do it again I might just move the seat forward some instead. I'm out of the the loop on car audio, but I imagine they have some quality shallow mount 12s that would be the ticket.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

2004LB7

Super Moderator
Staff member
Dec 15, 2010
7,109
2,215
113
Norcal
I put spacers under mine. Only about 3/4". Just enough to still get the nut back on the studs. That was enough to get my homemade dual 8" forward facing sub under it

Lift it too high and the bracket on the back will not engage and the back will fall forward. Need to fix that too if you go more than about 1.5" or so
 

N2BRK

Well-known member
Dec 31, 2009
2,059
391
83
I left the seat height alone and made a top firing 12" sub box on the driver's side, from 1/2" MDF and lots of bracing, etc. It was tight but doable. I squeezed in a Dayton HO 12" that I've been hitting with 850W out of a 1500w amp - signal is clean and no distortion, and since 2011 it's been rocking :) Don't give up too soon on leaving the seat alone. I did trim the "fingers" of the back of the seat so that when I partially collapse the seat, it will allow me to fold down the back, exposing my amp anchored to the back wall.

Good luck!
 

2004LB7

Super Moderator
Staff member
Dec 15, 2010
7,109
2,215
113
Norcal
^^ same for the back seat bracket. Makes getting to the back of the seat really easy
 

J_Stone06

Wasn't me...🥴
Oct 13, 2012
347
3
18
Nowhere, KS
Kit? Just weld two 1”1/2 pieces of angle iron together. You can use a pac adapter that plugs into the head unit to add rca and remote wire. Does it have bose? If so you can just tap the low level wires coming out of the head unit.
Yeah I was watching a YouTube video on LMI welding saying they fabricate rear seat lifts. I'm not even sure what the pac adapter is. My truck does have the Bose. Is there a write up on doing this and/or part numbers for any of that stuff? I've used the search bar, but maybe I'm not including the right keyword?? I'm totally down to not have to change anything on the stock head unit if I don't have to, lol.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

J_Stone06

Wasn't me...🥴
Oct 13, 2012
347
3
18
Nowhere, KS
I left the seat height alone and made a top firing 12" sub box on the driver's side, from 1/2" MDF and lots of bracing, etc. It was tight but doable. I squeezed in a Dayton HO 12" that I've been hitting with 850W out of a 1500w amp - signal is clean and no distortion, and since 2011 it's been rocking :) Don't give up too soon on leaving the seat alone. I did trim the "fingers" of the back of the seat so that when I partially collapse the seat, it will allow me to fold down the back, exposing my amp anchored to the back wall.

Good luck!
I worry about damaging the sub if I do a top firing or down firing if it's literally pressing against the seat or floor respectively. I bet that did sound clean.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

N2BRK

Well-known member
Dec 31, 2009
2,059
391
83
I made a guard for the surround. It's worked for 9 years, so who knows how long it'll last. LOL
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
4,918
497
83
TX of course
Ya you have to make sure the cone or rubber surround isn’t hitting the bottom of the seat or the floor. Forward firing is best do you don’t lose to much air space.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
I know LMM rear seats are different but my 02 has 4 10" subs behind the rear seat with a custom box i built. realistically 3 is better suited for the box air space but ive been driving about 700w's to them for 14 years without issue and the cones are damn near on the seat.
 

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
3,729
297
83
Boise, ID, USA
If I recall, on the factory Bose trucks, the head unit actually sends a pre-amp level output to the factory amp. I think you can just splice in there. PAC used to sell an adapter that was basically a plug in tee that would give you access to the signals without doing any hacking of the stock wiring.

The kit posted earlier should work, but you probably don't even need the box, just the adapter and solder some RCAs to that.

I could be way wrong, this was all what I remember planning to do to my truck to add subs before I never got around to it :spit:
 

2004LB7

Super Moderator
Staff member
Dec 15, 2010
7,109
2,215
113
Norcal
It's also a balanced output. So either get an amp that has balanced inputs or use a converter / transformer
 

J_Stone06

Wasn't me...🥴
Oct 13, 2012
347
3
18
Nowhere, KS
If I recall, on the factory Bose trucks, the head unit actually sends a pre-amp level output to the factory amp. I think you can just splice in there. PAC used to sell an adapter that was basically a plug in tee that would give you access to the signals without doing any hacking of the stock wiring.

The kit posted earlier should work, but you probably don't even need the box, just the adapter and solder some RCAs to that.

I could be way wrong, this was all what I remember planning to do to my truck to add subs before I never got around to it :spit:
I might email them and see what, if anything they sell for adapters/harness for Bose outfitted trucks. I would honestly prefer not hacking into any factory wire harnesses, lol.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

2004LB7

Super Moderator
Staff member
Dec 15, 2010
7,109
2,215
113
Norcal
You could always get the connector from pick and pull or other dismantler like I did so you don't have to cut any wires. I just went in and found a vehicle with the right sound system and opened up the center console and removed as much of the harness I could get.
 

gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
4,081
252
83
Nor cal
Do you have the Bose system on yours? Description says it doesn't work with factory amplified systems...I would totally go this route if it works. Thanks for turning me onto this.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Yes this is the one I have and I have the bose. Don’t know why they say it doesn’t work :eek: