Rear main tool
- Thread starter fl0w3n
- Start date
I am in Southern California
Thanks!
I would be fine with that, I’ll try and look closer when I’m in there to see if it’s leaking. I would just hate for it to start leaking shortly after I was in there.
What’s the opportunity to make it worse? I think I remember reading about there’s a cover plate on the rear that’s a pain to line up?
Keep in mind, the flexplate can't just be popped off to take a close look at the rear main seal without buying new torque to yield bolts or some ARP's. To get either the stockers or the ARP's tight will require the flexplate holding tool which goes through the starter hole and indexes in the teeth to hold the flexplate from rotating.
I can't remember the torque value on my ARP's, but I do remember hanging on the torque wrench when I put on my SoCal flex plate.
I can't remember the torque value on my ARP's, but I do remember hanging on the torque wrench when I put on my SoCal flex plate.
50/50 chance it leaks worse after you’re done if you don’t know what you’re doing. I know what I’m doing and don’t change them unless it’s leaking bad.
you can retorque the stock flex plate bolts 3-4 times before they no long hold the correct torque. Guy did testing on them a few years back with main bolts, flex plate bolts and the stock balancer bolt. certainly aint a bad idea to replace them if you wanted to.
Won’t I be changing out the flex plate anyways with the southbend kit I get?
I’m all good for not risking it :thumb:
The truck has been covered in oil from some other issues but I’ll take a closer peak at the rear main like I said. I don’t recall it seeming like it was an issue.
I haven’t owned it very long.
I’m the type of guy that likes to do it right to the best of my ability, I’ll typically use only AC Delco unless there’s significant proof that an aftermarket part is superior.
For the $70 or whatever the price is on the bolts, I’d replace them. I’m already into the trans and clutch for nearly $4500. Not going to skimp on a few bolts.
I do know when I did mine I could not get the last 60deg turn on it, it did not matter how big a cheater I got(4') on 3/4" drive breaker bar. This was before mine brain processed the torque to yield and bought new ones. The new ones I got the last 60 deg no problem. Mine could have been re-torqued or over torqued prior to me(got the truck with 200K on the clock).
Mike