Rear Brakes Wear Fast

[smarquis]

Does anyone else have a problem with their rear brakes wearing ridiculously fast? I get about 15,000 miles out of mine rear brakes and 50,000 out of my front brakes. Also, when I go to change the pads, the rear rotors are usually cracked from the excessive heat. Even the after market ones I got 80,000 miles ago that were slotted were cracked so badly that the shop refused to put new pads on them. I have after market bigger brakes and rotors on the front that I have only changed once since that time, but i have replaced the rear about 4 or 5 times. I have now resorted to just buying new rotors/pads at Pep Boys because they are really cheap - rotors are only about $35 a piece - but still it is a pain in the rear.

So, obviously, I kind of drive fast (or like a "bat out of hell" to quote my wife). However, I still don't think the rear brakes should wear so quickly. Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions? I have the motor out to get rebuilt now so it may be a good time to look into the issue.

Thanks!

 

[Cknight199]

Sounds like something is defiantly wrong with your brake system. Can you get the fronts to lock up? Do they all lock up together or rear first?

 

[Chevy1925]

How rusted are the sliders?

 

[smarquis]

I can't get any of my brakes to lock (truck has anti-locks).

Rusted sliders may be an issue elsewhere, but not here in Las Vegas. I did find, however, that on my last change, that the slider grease was essentailly fried onto the slider. I guess that is just the excessive heat (and I may have used a cheaper grease without realizing it. Still doesn't change the fact that I have seen at least a couple of rotors spirdercrack does it? Would the heat from a pad that was wearing unevenly be sufficient to do that? Thanks.

 

[MACKIN]

It's pretty apparent that the rear brakes are dragging. Isn't there a way to test the ABS system with a TECH II? Thought I seen something like that but not 100%

Friend with a Dodge has the exact same issue but with the front. Never did figure it out

 

[Chevy1925]

Only thing i can think of is sticking calipers but you would notice that when you compress the piston to put new pads in. something isnt letting the rear brakes release pressure after hitting the brakes. whens the last time the system had the brake fluid flushed?

 

[redrob]

Do you tow with a trailer brake controller or not?

 

[Kappa9012]

doing burnouts??? I'd find it hard to believe both rear brakes are dragging together, unless its something upstream, and if it's enough to make the pads wear that fast you shouldn't be able to spin the wheel freely if the ass end was off the ground. Try jacking up the rear and spinning the tires.

could be the ebrake be hung?

 

[lifteddirty]

if your master cylinder is bad it could be pushing all of your fluid to the rear brakes, if you feel like bleeding your brakes you good take the lines off of it and see if it sprays evenly.

 

[jlawles2]

It sounds like your master cylinder is not releasing completely. Both front and rear. I have 160k on one truck (not a lot of trailer pulling) and 120K on my other both on original brakes and both still look new.

You could also have water in the master cylinder which is causing issues during and after braking.

 

[Cknight199]

doing burnouts??? I'd find it hard to believe both rear brakes are dragging together, unless its something upstream, and if it's enough to make the pads wear that fast you shouldn't be able to spin the wheel freely if the ass end was off the ground. Try jacking up the rear and spinning the tires.

could be the ebrake be hung?

The e brake doesn't utilize the same surface as the brake pads. Instead of using the rotor it uses the inside of the rotor, similar to a drum brake. If it was hung it wouldn't be noticeable because you would go through the e brake pads in a very short time. I don't believe he is changing e brake pads just normal pads.

 

[MACKIN]

I've seen OLD rubber brake lines cause the caliper to drag but IF you're developing that kind of heat to crack rotors as you describe I'd say the ABS is malfunctioning and holding pressure somehow in the rear. I'd run some ABS system checks.

 

[Chevy1925]

I've seen OLD rubber brake lines cause the caliper to drag but IF you're developing that kind of heat to crack rotors as you describe I'd say the ABS is malfunctioning and holding pressure somehow in the rear. I'd run some ABS system checks.

this is what im thinking but ive seen a brake fluid flush clean issues like this up.

 

[Kappa9012]

The e brake doesn't utilize the same surface as the brake pads. Instead of using the rotor it uses the inside of the rotor, similar to a drum brake. If it was hung it wouldn't be noticeable because you would go through the e brake pads in a very short time. I don't believe he is changing e brake pads just normal pads.

good to know

 

[smarquis]

if your master cylinder is bad it could be pushing all of your fluid to the rear brakes, if you feel like bleeding your brakes you good take the lines off of it and see if it sprays evenly.

Something like this is what I have essentially thought all along. Truck always seemed to stop pretty well, but as I said before I have the bigger brakes on the front so that may have compensated somewhat for not getting sufficient pressure to the front calipers?

I flushed the brake fluid about 1-2 years ago, and it did make a big difference on pedal feel, but I don't think it made any difference on wear.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. They are appreciated!

 

[Chevy1925]

Something like this is what I have essentially thought all along. Truck always seemed to stop pretty well, but as I said before I have the bigger brakes on the front so that may have compensated somewhat for not getting sufficient pressure to the front calipers?

I flushed the brake fluid about 1-2 years ago, and it did make a big difference on pedal feel, but I don't think it made any difference on wear.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. They are appreciated!

having the ABS system do the flush would be nessacary this time around. if indeed your MC was blowing past the front brake portion to only rear brakes, you should be noticing ABS kicking in alot sooner as you will be having to apply alot more brake to stop and with a light rear end, the rear tires would be locking up pretty quickly

a simple test would be to pinch off the front two brake lines and go drive it, that will tell you alot

 

[Cknight199]

Have you ever replaced your rear calipers/pistons? Your pistons could be corroded and not allowing the pad to relieve the pressure after the brakes are applied.

Another problem is your brake system may not be allowing the pressure out or the rear brake lines. Try opening up the rear bleeder valve on one of the brakes after driving it and see if it is still pressurized when you open the bleeder valve.

Put the trans in neutral and lift up the rear end. Try to spin the tire. If it spins then apply the brake and then release the pedal, then try to spin it. Is it noticeably harder to turn?

 

[Cknight199]

Double post.

 

[MACKIN]

I agree with flushing the fluid as a possible fix it is something that is over looked by many people and their vehicles. Everyone neglects this and feel their brake fluid is lifetime well it isn't and if you have 36K plus and you flush (which is very easy to do) the difference is amazing IMO!


Back to the problem I say you have to get your hands on a Tech II check for any ABS DTC's and run the ABS test and diagnostics. Even tho the light isn't illuminated. It would seem to me that a valve or something is hung up in the ABS unit and holding pressure on the back wheels.

If both sides are wearing out it isn't a Caliper or hose. It's the ABS unit IMO