Rattle from converter/bellhousing area

[thunder550]

Thanks. Can't wait to pull the starter again :roflmao:

I did figure out that the engine mount can stay bolted to the engine if I remove the frame pad and lift the engine up some on the passenger side. That seems to be the easiest way to do it.

 

[onebaddmaxxx]

Iv left the starter wires hooked up and moved It back far enough to get to converter bolts. Iv also pulled downpipe on some occasions. I think once I unbolted trans mount and jacked it up and got started out

 

[juddski88]

he has it in a 1500 frame

 

[S Phinney]

If you're talking about the flywheel to crank bolts; 80lb is not even close to being enough. If you're talking about converter mounting bolts; 80lb will start to pull the threads out of the converter.

I meant converter to flywheel bolts. That number is what Suncoast told me because I was having problems with them at 44 lbs. I went to 60 with locktite and have had no more problems.

 

[S Phinney]

The Spec for ARP flywheel bolts is 150 ft/lbs

I am aware of that spec. I use those as well.

 

[thunder550]

Iv left the starter wires hooked up and moved It back far enough to get to converter bolts. Iv also pulled downpipe on some occasions. I think once I unbolted trans mount and jacked it up and got started out

Motor mount is about 2" closer to the starter in my application. I'll have to pull the downpipe, unbolt the motor mount, lift the passenger side of the motor, and remove the frame pad to get the starter out.

 

[Mike L.]

I meant converter to flywheel bolts. That number is what Suncoast told me because I was having problems with them at 44 lbs. I went to 60 with locktite and have had no more problems.

60 is fine but I wouldn't go any tighter.

 

[Burn Down]

I use a cheap stethoscope at work to help pinpoint noises, hasn't let me down yet. Works way better than the screwdriver to the ear trick.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=engine+stethoscope&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=13617521995&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11707797743740837803&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_1m3pndhpqc_e
I always Blue Loctite my converter bolts new or used... Peace of mind and its a pain in the azz to go back in there.

 

[thunder550]

Redid converter bolts. They weren't very tight, but none were loose enough to rattle around. Coated bolts with blue Loctite and set to 60 ft-lbs.

 

[motoking_1990]

Still make noise?

 

[thunder550]

Haven't run it yet. Doing injector bracket bolts now.

 

[thunder550]

Drove the truck to work this morning, listened underneath when I parked and didn't hear any rattling. I wasn't able to get underneath though, will slide my phone underneath again on the creeper when I get home and take another video.

 

[S Phinney]

It only takes one bolt loose to rattle. It will be vibration in the plate that makes the rattle not the actual bolt.

 

[hondarider552]

Get to work faster I hope?

 

[thunder550]

In half the normal time! It has nothing to do with everyone being off this week I'm sure...

 

[Burn Down]

In half the normal time! It has nothing to do with everyone being off this week I'm sure...

F-no, it's because 1/2 ton TT Duramax:driving:

 

[thunder550]

Rattle is still there, doesn't seem to be affecting anything though, truck is driving and shifting great, converter locks up perfectly and there is no slip per the scanner. Guess I won't worry about it

 

[S Phinney]

You should always worry about something that isn't suppose to be there.

 

[hondarider552]

Track Friday night Chris? I'll have the truck done :woott:

 

[Mike L.]

Track Friday night Chris? I'll have the truck done :woott:

About time. :dancenana: