Rattle from converter/bellhousing area

[thunder550]

[YOUTUBE]QBZ7AHxD3lU[/YOUTUBE]

Coming from the bellhousing/converter area. Goes away when in gear, only does it in P/N (I am shifting from P/N to D/R in the video). Anybody had something similar? Anything to worry about? I pulled the inspection cover and it seemed like it got a tiny bit louder. Could be in my head though.

 

[hondarider552]

Did you torque the converter bolts after I left when engine went in?

 

[thunder550]

Yep, did that.

 

[onebaddmaxxx]

Does the exhaust hit the crossmember

 

[thunder550]

Shouldn't be, I checked that when I cut the exhaust to mate to the downpipe. I'll check again, but it definitely sounded like it was coming from the bellhousing. I messaged Mike, he suggested converter clutch as a possibility. I'll hook up the scanner tomorrow and make sure it's not slipping.

 

[onebaddmaxxx]

seems like ever since you tore this thing down its been problematic.

 

[thunder550]

Crawled underneath again and it's definitely coming from the bellhousing/converter area. I pulled the inspection cover again and it was noticeably louder with it off. The exhaust is not even close to the crossmember, probably a good 2-3 inches clearance all around, and I tried to move the converter a bit with the engine off to see if it was loose from the flywheel, and couldn't move anything.

Honestly I'm not sure if this is a new noise or not. I can't hear it from inside the truck, and I just came across is while crawling under the truck searching for another noise that sounds a little like an exhaust leak. It may have been doing this for awhile. I'm just going to log tomorrow to verify that there's no converter slip and run it.

 

[S Phinney]

I would check by re torque on the flywheel bolts. I have seen them loosen up before. Torque to 80 lbs if using after market bolts.

 

[S Phinney]

That was a maximum turquoise number given to me by Suncoast. You could go 60 if you prefer to start with.

 

[thunder550]

Reusing factory bolts. Loctite?

 

[Evan@InglewoodTrans]

Reusing factory bolts. Loctite?

Do not use the factory bolts you will ruin the converter.

On edit: Unless for some reason your referring to reusing the aftermarket shorter bolts you removed when pulling the motor as "factory" bolts.

 

[thunder550]

Whatever was in there already is what I put back in.

 

[S Phinney]

Always locktite if reusing bolts.

 

[S Phinney]

Factory bolts have a Allen head as well as 15 mm bolt head.

 

[duramaxzak]

Factory torque converter bolts are usually to long for use with aftermarket converter's, they don't suck the converter tight to the flexplate.

 

[thunder550]

These were hex head bolts, must be aftermarket. Whatever is in there now is what Mike's guys put in there when they did the trans.

 

[Mike L.]

I would check by re torque on the flywheel bolts. I have seen them loosen up before. Torque to 80 lbs if using after market bolts.

If you're talking about the flywheel to crank bolts; 80lb is not even close to being enough. If you're talking about converter mounting bolts; 80lb will start to pull the threads out of the converter.

 

[juddski88]

I would check by re torque on the flywheel bolts. I have seen them loosen up before. Torque to 80 lbs if using after market bolts.

The Spec for ARP flywheel bolts is 150 ft/lbs

 

[thunder550]

I used this page for torque specs the first time around:
http://www.socaldiesel.com/LLY%20Torque%20Specs.htm

It says 44 ft-lb on the converter bolts. Mike, where do you set them?

Blue Loctite on the bolts I'm assuming? I can't remember if I used any when I put it back together, which means I probably didn't.

 

[Mike L.]

I used this page for torque specs the first time around:
http://www.socaldiesel.com/LLY%20Torque%20Specs.htm

It says 44 ft-lb on the converter bolts. Mike, where do you set them?

Around 45/50lb.