This is my experience the last 6 years with many, many trucks all over the USA and Canada, builds that cost between $50K-$100K, less is usually more,.
What I mean is the less risks you take the more benefits you yield, nobody wants to see their motor pop or have a window in it.
There are many "tuners" who are new to this, they got IMHO, their starter tunes from other "tuners" who are also new to this, seems now days everyone with a V2 is an expert tuner.........:woott:........there are also many "tuners" who have been around a while that can't tune a custom build via email, how do I know, because they eventually call me to fix it.
Tuning a stock truck is fairly simple, I could list the basic pw/timing for each model year but that still won't get you where you need to be, every truck is different, the problem is most people don't build a good shifting tune and you can make all the power in the world if it is a lazy POS down low and de-fuels badly it will not be as quick as other tunes.
When you have sat on as many dyno's as I have and spent as much money as I have to learn what needs to happen and what doesn't need to happen then I'll believe what other people have to say.
I posted a long time ago, fuel pressure is "KING" if you adjust the pw for maximum fuel pressure, know how much timing where and when, and get the dam thing to shift quick and clean you'll be doing the best you can.
Anyone running a TCM tune with the torque request disabled is asking for a cooked transmission, that's a band aid for poor ecm tuning !!!
Look for a tuner with a proven record, not the latest guy online with a cheerleading section or fancy website, the two of which I don't need.
Also Cheap isn't always Good and Good isn't always Cheap......:roflmao:
Log your truck and nibble pw down until you get the highest sustained fuel pressure at WOT at the track, then make sure you don't have more timing then you need, once you have that make sure it shifts cleanly at WOT, then go and increase pw at WOT only until you see either mph lower or ET raise up, repeat until you are sure it's not a bad 60ft or some other issue, then stop and leave it the hell alone, it's a race tune, not a street tune, that is why we have switches.
