Race prep

[DAVe3283]

Does anyone keep their truck running to keep temps where they need to be, sometimes if they have to prep the track the coolant and trans cool down enough they aren't at operating temp

I will try and walk the fine line between too low of ECT and it limiting fueling (I limit all my tunes when the engine is cold) and too high of IAT and being a smokey pig. Not always an easy balance to find. So yeah, I will fire it up to idle and keep temps up on occasion.

I idle in line with no fan at all stays at 208ish. Mostly because when I restart it it puffs smoke on some nice cars so easier to keep it running lol

In the LB7, we have access to all the startup fueling options. I've been able to dial all the startup smoke out of my built motor. Lights off just like a stock untuned motor

Perhaps the LLY has similar tables? Kind of a nit to pick on a race tune, but might be worth a mention next time you are getting a tune adjustment.

Sent from my Cat S60 using Tapatalk

 

[zf>allison]

You race without the fan? Interesting

That reminds me I had something go bad up in there there's melted plastic around the shroud lol

Yeah I think I look down in the hottest it got going at the end of the track was about 230 but as soon as I let out of it cool right back down to 208, and holds 208 in pit lanes at idle. That is also without any of the plastic to direct the wind anywhere, like the one that goes from the grill to the top of the core support it's all gone.

 

[DuramxMan]

I do the second gear launch with trans tune, have to press tow haul mode button and roll into throttle while holding brake and it shift to second, then start building boost. I have a Fleece lockup box that is manual, I usually wait till it shift and then press button. Wondering if a BT box being auto would lockup after second gear or while staging. Would be one less thing to do!

 

[OregonDMAX]

Yeah I think I look down in the hottest it got going at the end of the track was about 230 but as soon as I let out of it cool right back down to 208, and holds 208 in pit lanes at idle. That is also without any of the plastic to direct the wind anywhere, like the one that goes from the grill to the top of the core support it's all gone.

Because race weight

It's funny you mention that because I don't really hear it kick on tbh it usually cools down on its own pretty quick

 

[OregonDMAX]

I do the second gear launch with trans tune, have to press tow haul mode button and roll into throttle while holding brake and it shift to second, then start building boost. I have a Fleece lockup box that is manual, I usually wait till it shift and then press button. Wondering if a BT box being auto would lockup after second gear or while staging. Would be one less thing to do!

How do you like the 2nd gear start, how much did it help

I wonder what the BT box would do because it's supposed to lockup in 2nd when in auto but if you start in second would it even work at all or would it try and lock as soon as you hammer it. I would ask Ben but trying to get ahold of him is near impossible

 

[zf>allison]

Because race weight

It's funny you mention that because I don't really hear it kick on tbh it usually cools down on its own pretty quick

As soon as I turn off the track the temp starts dropping hard. Never shut it off will go right back under 210. I could probably throw the plastic air diverter back on and see cooler temps on the track. Think most of my air goes over the core support with the hood gutted especially. That's turning well over 4k down track.

 

[Bdsankey]

How do you like the 2nd gear start, how much did it help

I wonder what the BT box would do because it's supposed to lockup in 2nd when in auto but if you start in second would it even work at all or would it try and lock as soon as you hammer it. I would ask Ben but trying to get ahold of him is near impossible

Auto, the way it is default programmed, is lockup when 2nd gear & WOT are achieved. This can be programmed on a delay and I believe he has instructions online on how to do that.

 

[Osubeaver]

I prefer going off of RPM rather than boost. The tach is a lot easier to accurately read than a little boost gauge.

In my street truck I used 2000rpm. There was room to go a little higher, but 2k rpm is really easy to see and line the needle up right on the mark. It was super consistent.

Race truck as soon as the starter waved for staging I'd ride the brake and start getting spooled as soon as I started rolling. There is a tipping point that you can feel where all you need to do to get completely spooled is give it more pedal and it's basically linear with no lag. I get right before that point and light the first bulb then immediately give it more pedal to get to the point I can do whatever I want. Didn't hurt to wait there a while and I could full stage at will even if I got double bulbed. 2600 rpm is a good rpm for that setup.

If you have stock turbo, a small turbo, or small twins "building boost" should be basically instant if you have good tuning. I don't see the point of having to be at full boost before lighting the second bulb. It makes it a pain in the ass to stage anyway.

 

[DuramxMan]

I like the 2nd gear launch, less spinning and 60 ft went down about .2 second. First had it done did not get told to roll into it with little throttle, so started building boost and when it shifted to second shattered the shaft in front diff. Two weeks later shattered the hub. Since then roll into it and don't let off and it does great. Still worry about breaking the hub. A billet hub is $400 at DHD!!!!