Qa1 coil over spring rate?

maine dmax

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Mar 28, 2009
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Lowered the truck 3/5 also removed overload spring. Want to go to qa1 coil overs in the rear. What spring rates have you guys run for street and track> Thanks
 

maine dmax

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Mar 28, 2009
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Yes, getting a ton of sag in the rear under take off, hits the DJM short bump stops and wheel hops, have ladder bar type traction bars. Was thinking the coil overs would help with the sag. Maybe I shouldn't have removed the overloads? but I like how the truck sits, trying to correct the excesive sag. Any thoughts? Thanks
 

Chevy1925

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Yes, getting a ton of sag in the rear under take off, hits the DJM short bump stops and wheel hops, have ladder bar type traction bars. Was thinking the coil overs would help with the sag. Maybe I shouldn't have removed the overloads? but I like how the truck sits, trying to correct the excesive sag. Any thoughts? Thanks

How much "sag" are we talkin? Sounds like you need more compression in the shocks than spring rate.
 

maine dmax

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Sorry, kinda new to this stuff, always pulled and got out of it. Called summit and there was 110, 120, 130, 150, 250 spring rates on the qa1's
 

Chevy1925

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Its not spring rate you should be diving into first so put that aside for now.

Lets see some pics of your ladder bars and what type shocks are you running now in the rear?
 

derek06

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I have no idea just a thought if you like the ride hight and want to get the sag out what about a set of air bags? Bump them up for the track and drop them down for driving around for your look...
 

JoshH

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I would have to agree with James. Sounds like you need a shock with tighter compression valving.
 

hondarider552

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May 28, 2008
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I have no idea just a thought if you like the ride hight and want to get the sag out what about a set of air bags? Bump them up for the track and drop them down for driving around for your look...

Normal dmax style air bags wont fit as soon as you put a drop shackle on it
 

maine dmax

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Its not spring rate you should be diving into first so put that aside for now.

Lets see some pics of your ladder bars and what type shocks are you running now in the rear?

The bars are Bds 60 inch bars, the shocks are Belltech nitro drops. Dont believe I'm getting alot of axle wrap, I guess I'm just thinking the shocks are too soft, was planning on going to qa1 double adjust. in the spring on front, so figured I'd get the single adjust for the rear. Used to run Ranchco adjustables all around, I would have been able to solve this sag problem with them, but truck is too low to run them
 

maine dmax

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The bars are Bds 60 inch bars, the shocks are Belltech nitro drops. Dont believe I'm getting alot of axle wrap, I guess I'm just thinking the shocks are too soft, was planning on going to qa1 double adjust. in the spring on front, so figured I'd get the single adjust for the rear. Used to run Ranchco adjustables all around, I would have been able to solve this sag problem with them, but truck is too low to run them

Not really ladder bars I guess, as the bolt to the bottom of the spring perch, I guess I just call em that because of the top and bottom tubing with webing in the middle
 

Chevy1925

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Not really ladder bars I guess, as the bolt to the bottom of the spring perch, I guess I just call em that because of the top and bottom tubing with webing in the middle

ok yeah, so its like most normal axle wrap bars. bein you bought 60" bars and your lowered, its not helping you any but a good set of adjustable shocks will help you keep that rear end in place over more spring rate. if you add more spring rate, the rear end is gunna ride like hell and you have just changed your rebound to move quicker and along with stiffening compression instead of only changing compression which is what you want to do. fast rebound can cause bouncing like axle wrap causes yet you will have no axle wrap.
 

othrgrl

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Mar 10, 2008
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Order a set of QA1 DD702 or DD701 double adjustable coil over shocks and you will be able to adjust rebound and compression individually. They are coil overs, but just run them without coils - if you order the same shock without the threaded body (TD703 non-coil over) it will come with a stud on the top and you will need to convert to bearing or eyelet bushing and by the time you buy those parts for the same money you could have a shock that you could put a coil on if you ever wanted to (4-link in the future).

I would also go to some adjustable traction bars of the correct length to get the right angle and be able to pre-load them.
 

othrgrl

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For the front you can order:

QA1 DD401 Double Adjustable Coil-Over Shocks - with QA1 SS110SDM stud adapters on the top, COM8T-102PK heavy duty bearings in the bottoms, and a 7888-110 thrust bearing and spanner wrench set for easy height adjustment.

Then a set of HyperCo 10B0900 Springs - 10" free length, 2.5" ID, 900 lb spring rate.
 

maine dmax

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Mar 28, 2009
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Order a set of QA1 DD702 or DD701 double adjustable coil over shocks and you will be able to adjust rebound and compression individually. They are coil overs, but just run them without coils - if you order the same shock without the threaded body (TD703 non-coil over) it will come with a stud on the top and you will need to convert to bearing or eyelet bushing and by the time you buy those parts for the same money you could have a shock that you could put a coil on if you ever wanted to (4-link in the future).

I would also go to some adjustable traction bars of the correct length to get the right angle and be able to pre-load them.

Thanks Dustin, actually forgot to mention I cut the ends off those BDS bars and put on end links to adjust them. What is the difference between the dd702 and 701? Thanks alot!
 

c0ncEpT

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Jan 2, 2012
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Order a set of QA1 DD702 or DD701 double adjustable coil over shocks and you will be able to adjust rebound and compression individually. They are coil overs, but just run them without coils - if you order the same shock without the threaded body (TD703 non-coil over) it will come with a stud on the top and you will need to convert to bearing or eyelet bushing and by the time you buy those parts for the same money you could have a shock that you could put a coil on if you ever wanted to (4-link in the future).

I would also go to some adjustable traction bars of the correct length to get the right angle and be able to pre-load them.

^ What he said right there.


Tight up the compression(a lot). It will help resist the "sag" your seeing and really drive the tire into the pavement.