I'll get the front end dropped down his week. We pull again Friday. Thanks for the advice. I'll keep plugging away at it.
Pulling distance
- Thread starter White Lighting
- Start date
Is clamping the springs doing the same thing as having ladder bars? If not where do I clamp them? I can get the clamps here local
On my work stock truck, I run stops, clamps and bars. Clamps will lower the rear a bit but makes the suspension much more solid. I would clamp then confirm hitch height. It will ride like S*** though I can guarantee it :rofl:
I assume your rules must require the stops to have a certain amount of gap? 1"?
OP, can you post your rules?
Truck sounds great!
Easy stuff, Clamp the front of the leaf springs to the overload, dump torsions all the way down, get better front end parts, traction bars. I ran my 33 inch bfg all terrains about 20psi higher than my fronts. Bump the shifter into neutral at the end of the run. The converter is stopping the motor cause its locked and your tires stopped turning. Neutralat the end of the run will resolve that issue
Easy stuff, Clamp the front of the leaf springs to the overload, dump torsions all the way down, get better front end parts, traction bars. I ran my 33 inch bfg all terrains about 20psi higher than my fronts. Bump the shifter into neutral at the end of the run. The converter is stopping the motor cause its locked and your tires stopped turning. Neutralat the end of the run will resolve that issue
Front end is dropped low as I can get it and springs are clamped. Track is usually pretty tight we are pulling on tommorow night. Any recommendations on tire pressure?
General Grabber ATx 285/75/16 Load Range E with a max tire pressure 80psi
Been running 45 rears 32 in front
General Grabber ATx 285/75/16 Load Range E with a max tire pressure 80psi
Been running 45 rears 32 in front
Im curious, how do you go about starting your pull? Do you raise RPM to about 1500-2000rpm and hold it before you let off the brakes, or do you simply start at idle and punch it off the start?
The proper way to setup the front on these trucks is not to "lower the front end" but to take all preload off of torsion keys(back bolts out) but keeping it supported at a certain height. When you lower the front, as soon as the sled weights your hitch, the front end raises to a point and you just lost your hitch height.
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Gotta love running classes with hanging weight! While I do agree that is the best way to do it, most guys just lower the front end and call it a day. I have my bars as low as I can while still being able to turn with weight on, it isn't ideal for places that don't allow hanging weight but It also is a height where it is consistent, hooks well, and I can still drive it everywhere without looking goofy or taking 30pt turns.
Its hard to do a front end stop on it if you drive to/from pulls.
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Depends on the track. 99 precent of the time I hold the brake, roll in to the gas and once it starts to pull through the brakes give it hell. If it hooks and doesn't start hopping I keep it pinned. I'm just learning. One of the more experienced guys will be able to tell you better.
Build as much power/boost on the line as you can. You want to come out hard but you also don't want to just blow the tires off. It's something that will take time to learn.
Are you starting in 3rd gear? Or is it shifting up?
EDIT I looked back and see you are letting it up shift, that will dictate how hard to leave also.
EDIT I looked back and see you are letting it up shift, that will dictate how hard to leave also.
If that is the case (I didn't look that hard) a 3rd gear start file will GREATLY help.
OK, you're doing that correctly. Was just eliminating that as a problem, based on that video.
Depends on the track. 99 precent of the time I hold the brake, roll in to the gas and once it starts to pull through the brakes give it hell. If it hooks and doesn't start hopping I keep it pinned. I'm just learning. One of the more experienced guys will be able to tell you better.
