My LBZ has cost me a fortune recently and I’m still having problems.
Developed an oil leak from turbo end of December after 2 years of sticking turbo vane issue. Last summer truck went into limp mode and threw the P087 code after WOT twice. So, I put a new Stealth 64mm turbo in and did EGR delete, turbo up pipe, PPE lift pump with CAT filter, and fuel rail race plug (already had EFI Live, MBRP 4” exhaust, turbo down pipe, stock transmission, PVC reroute). After turbo install (and lift pump) I noticed the truck had a surge at traffic lights (had to stand on the brake at intersections to keep the truck stopped).i didn’t think much of it. I towed a 17’ cargo trailer home (about 5,000 lbs in light tow mode “50 hp”) and noticed no issues, no overheating, nothing at all.
Once I got home the truck threw 3 DTC for glow plugs, so off to the dealer for 8 new ones. They busted #7 and 8 and wanted $10,000 (50 hours labor) to remove heads and send to machine shop (I said no). They also said rear pinion seal was leaking (had new seal last October), they said torque converter was done (had a billet torque converter installed October 2015) and oil pan leak.
So, they fixed oil pan leak, and I took the truck back to tranny shop that did the torque converter and rear pinion seal. They called and said truck needed new yoke and rear seal and that the torque converter stator had let go, destroying the clutches and that my transmission fluid was black and heavily contaminated with clutch material. I urged him to send the torque converter to machine shop to get cut in half to determine what failed. Torque converter was fine, so now onto the transmission. Transmission problems found:
The C2 clutches were burnt
• The pistons had severe contamination due to burnt transmission fluid
• The transmission pump stator was leaking and bypassing oil which causes over heating
• The fluid was extremely burnt (black) and caused a large amount of contamination throughout the unit
So, new transmission and torque converter in, truck doesn’t surge at lights but the driveline feels like it is torqued up considerably. Edge Insight shows actual and desired fuel rail values are identical. In neutral actual fuel rail pressure reads 4.0 - 4.6 kpsi, but in drive it’s 6.4 - 6.6 kpsi when stopped. A buddy’s stock LBZ reads 4.2 kpsi in drive stopped. I flashed the ECM back to stock as suggested by Idaho Rob and value stays 6.6-6.9 kpsi. When I back up and put the truck in park there is a tremendous clunk (at times, not always - u joints are fine). I really think the truck has too much fuel rail pressure when in drive and stopped sitting at lights, but I’m no mechanic. Injectors are stock. Tranny shop isn’t happy with the excessive torque on driveline after new tranny and torque converter.
Out of curiosity I talked to tech at Allison and he said “ definitely the EFI Live caused the transmission failure”. I doubt that after flashing truck back to stock, as the truck still seems like it wants to launch at idle in drive with foot on the brake (does it in reverse too where it actually lunges backwards).
Any ideas? Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve? PPE Lift pump dialed too high? I really don’t want to fry another tranny! Thanks for any ideas!
Developed an oil leak from turbo end of December after 2 years of sticking turbo vane issue. Last summer truck went into limp mode and threw the P087 code after WOT twice. So, I put a new Stealth 64mm turbo in and did EGR delete, turbo up pipe, PPE lift pump with CAT filter, and fuel rail race plug (already had EFI Live, MBRP 4” exhaust, turbo down pipe, stock transmission, PVC reroute). After turbo install (and lift pump) I noticed the truck had a surge at traffic lights (had to stand on the brake at intersections to keep the truck stopped).i didn’t think much of it. I towed a 17’ cargo trailer home (about 5,000 lbs in light tow mode “50 hp”) and noticed no issues, no overheating, nothing at all.
Once I got home the truck threw 3 DTC for glow plugs, so off to the dealer for 8 new ones. They busted #7 and 8 and wanted $10,000 (50 hours labor) to remove heads and send to machine shop (I said no). They also said rear pinion seal was leaking (had new seal last October), they said torque converter was done (had a billet torque converter installed October 2015) and oil pan leak.
So, they fixed oil pan leak, and I took the truck back to tranny shop that did the torque converter and rear pinion seal. They called and said truck needed new yoke and rear seal and that the torque converter stator had let go, destroying the clutches and that my transmission fluid was black and heavily contaminated with clutch material. I urged him to send the torque converter to machine shop to get cut in half to determine what failed. Torque converter was fine, so now onto the transmission. Transmission problems found:
The C2 clutches were burnt
• The pistons had severe contamination due to burnt transmission fluid
• The transmission pump stator was leaking and bypassing oil which causes over heating
• The fluid was extremely burnt (black) and caused a large amount of contamination throughout the unit
So, new transmission and torque converter in, truck doesn’t surge at lights but the driveline feels like it is torqued up considerably. Edge Insight shows actual and desired fuel rail values are identical. In neutral actual fuel rail pressure reads 4.0 - 4.6 kpsi, but in drive it’s 6.4 - 6.6 kpsi when stopped. A buddy’s stock LBZ reads 4.2 kpsi in drive stopped. I flashed the ECM back to stock as suggested by Idaho Rob and value stays 6.6-6.9 kpsi. When I back up and put the truck in park there is a tremendous clunk (at times, not always - u joints are fine). I really think the truck has too much fuel rail pressure when in drive and stopped sitting at lights, but I’m no mechanic. Injectors are stock. Tranny shop isn’t happy with the excessive torque on driveline after new tranny and torque converter.
Out of curiosity I talked to tech at Allison and he said “ definitely the EFI Live caused the transmission failure”. I doubt that after flashing truck back to stock, as the truck still seems like it wants to launch at idle in drive with foot on the brake (does it in reverse too where it actually lunges backwards).
Any ideas? Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve? PPE Lift pump dialed too high? I really don’t want to fry another tranny! Thanks for any ideas!
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