Want to get my Dad something for his lb7 for his upcoming birthday and I think an upgrade to the turbo horn would be a good choice. Is there any real performance difference between the fleece intake horn or something like the profab intake horn? I imagine the profab option gets you a bit more sound than the fleece, has anyone tried both?
Ported or aftermarket turbo horn?
- Thread starter Dura-anon
- Start date
Is this the fabricated one or a machined oem horn, I'd be interested
Now I am sorry if I'm hijacking the thread here, but what can be done with the wiring loom when you use a fabricated horn cause I know it won't fit!!Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Pro fab makes their own, fleece offers a porting service for the factory mouthpiece. I have read that in order to put in the big 3 or 3.5 inch versions it's not so much the loom that needs modification, but apparently a plastic conduit that runs through the area, if it's anything like my LBZ, I think people are referring to the hard black plastic conduit that sits next to the MP. Seems simple enough to do if you are at all familiar with a wrench. Considering a drop in BMW at the same time, but I've already done his down pipe and really don't want to pop that thing off again so that I can hold the turbine with a rag to get the impeller side off.
My knowledge on turbos has me believing that a larger intake horn creates less airflow restriction, and will be the most beneficial, just hoping someone can confirm what I am thinking or steer me straight on which one to choose.
My knowledge on turbos has me believing that a larger intake horn creates less airflow restriction, and will be the most beneficial, just hoping someone can confirm what I am thinking or steer me straight on which one to choose.
I put the profab horn on my lb7 a month ago. It was a pita lol. That hard plastic "wire tray" of sorts definitely gets in the way. With a little persuasion it fits perfectly.
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
I ran the ported horn with a batmo on my lb7, the combo was great. Sounded good egts stayed in check and it spooled very fast...
I installed the Profab intake horn in during an injector service. Super easy as the wiring was out of the way. The wiring (conduit) will get in the way as you will see on the install. I just moved the conduit as it does not sit in place as it used to. I did not see mhch of a difference.
Profab is the biggest airhorn
I pull the plastic wire tray out & replace it with a quality split loom
I pull the plastic wire tray out & replace it with a quality split loom
I emailed fleece in my search for an intake horn, fleece meassured the intake horn, said it's 3 in where it goes into turbo, and just over 3 in where intake connects. Now I went with the profab horn after receiving this info, cause other sources have said that profab is 3.5 in throughout or darn close to it going through, and in comparison between stock and profab, profab is huge, now the gains from profab, at Least 2 psi under load, and a louder turbo whistle through its range, finally louder turbo I can actually hear without rolling passenger window down, lol
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. I ended up putting on the fleece ported intake horn for my dad. What a royal PITA on a cali-truck, you guys in real America are lucky. I am very glad I chose this part over the other intake horns because I don't think they would've made the tight squeeze next to all the egr gadgetry. The CA model horn actually has a sizeable "dent" where it passes by the egr assembly, I was pleasantly surprised to see the horn fit in place after sneaking it in there.
I don't recommend doing this mod on a CA truck unless you have some quality tools and a lot of patience. I replaced the 3 factory bolts with Allens in order to make the install easier. You will need 3 m6x1.00 coarse thread by 25mm long. I also put in washers because the Allens are not flared like the factory bolts. The top drivers side bolt is a cinch to reach, the bottom drivers side you will want to pop off the serpentine belt and take out the 4 a/c compressor bolts so that it can be slid aside, then use a long ball end 5mm Allen socket on an extension to sneak in from all the way at the front of the engine, under the wore tray, and into the head of the allen. The ugliest one is the passenger side... undo the drivers side and forward passenger side pcv lines, remove the vacuum line to the bulb that is blocking your path, unbolt the metal pcv junction from the intake piping (3 10mm fasteners), pull it up and out of the way. Unscrew the two #3 Phillips holding the vacuum bulb in place, then you finally have a shot at reaching #3. I shortened a 5mm allen key and hot glued a 5mm allen bit into the box end of a 1/4" wrench in order to get the last bolt torqued down degree-by-degree. I know that all sounds confusing, but if it helps just one brave person through this job, great!
I also did the IAH delete at the same time. The truck is certainly happier now, it has the ppe boost valve and will now hit nearly 30psi from a roll on the flat, with nothing in tow. Happy with the results, but what a bear of an install. :thumb:
I don't recommend doing this mod on a CA truck unless you have some quality tools and a lot of patience. I replaced the 3 factory bolts with Allens in order to make the install easier. You will need 3 m6x1.00 coarse thread by 25mm long. I also put in washers because the Allens are not flared like the factory bolts. The top drivers side bolt is a cinch to reach, the bottom drivers side you will want to pop off the serpentine belt and take out the 4 a/c compressor bolts so that it can be slid aside, then use a long ball end 5mm Allen socket on an extension to sneak in from all the way at the front of the engine, under the wore tray, and into the head of the allen. The ugliest one is the passenger side... undo the drivers side and forward passenger side pcv lines, remove the vacuum line to the bulb that is blocking your path, unbolt the metal pcv junction from the intake piping (3 10mm fasteners), pull it up and out of the way. Unscrew the two #3 Phillips holding the vacuum bulb in place, then you finally have a shot at reaching #3. I shortened a 5mm allen key and hot glued a 5mm allen bit into the box end of a 1/4" wrench in order to get the last bolt torqued down degree-by-degree. I know that all sounds confusing, but if it helps just one brave person through this job, great!
I also did the IAH delete at the same time. The truck is certainly happier now, it has the ppe boost valve and will now hit nearly 30psi from a roll on the flat, with nothing in tow. Happy with the results, but what a bear of an install. :thumb: