My truck: LBZ, SunCoast Trans, McRat Wendy Tune, Straight 5",Volant Intake, 8" Fabtech, 37"s, 70K miles, Wendy tune for 60K
Ok, so here’s my problem: I was on the interstate, did a full throttle run from a 70 roll to about 130mph and popped my fuel valve. I cleared the code, and it did its normal surging and puffing black smoke every once while the valve was trying to reset. It normally takes a day or two for it to reset but after about a week, and after getting a little worst, I finally installed the PPE race valve that I have. Nothing has changed, and it still runs like crap.
If I put either of the HP tunes in the truck, it won’t even hold speed without puffing black smoke every 30sec or so. Under full throttle it’s still about 80% as fast but black smokes the entire time and sounds like the turbo is having trouble staying lit. Normally, the truck black smokes for the first 5sec and then clears up.
Things I have done:
I put the stock tune back in and it seems to run fine with no loss of (stock) power, sounds normal and drives normal.
I put a smaller McRat tune (450hp) and ran like crap, same as the large tune
I data logged a couple things – not really sure what to look at, but with either HP tune I could keep the throttle at a constant 30% (accelerating) as my truck started bogging and lugging. The commanded and Actual Boost voltage were going from 3.0V down to zero or less than one.
I took the boot off the front of the turbo and check the wheel, and it seems to have a small amount of play up and down, maybe .005-010 total. If you pull up on the wheel its harder to turn, but it does not hit the housing but has no play in and out.
I also did a bottle test and got no fuel in the bottle.
When I put he HP tunes back in, if the truck is cold, I can go around the block and floor it and it runs perfect, but as soon it starts to get warm 3-5 mins after, it starts runing bad and stays bad.
I had someone look at the turbo when I had the boot off that sled pulls duramaxs competitively, and he said my turbo seems to be shot. I just can’t understand why it runs perfect stock. I just really want to make sure that I am 100% sure that it is my turbo before I go spend $3500 to replace it with an aftermarket one.
Anyone have any ideas on thing to check? The Chevy dealership is about a useful as a poopy-flavored lollipop when it comes to diesels. Please help – thanks.
Ok, so here’s my problem: I was on the interstate, did a full throttle run from a 70 roll to about 130mph and popped my fuel valve. I cleared the code, and it did its normal surging and puffing black smoke every once while the valve was trying to reset. It normally takes a day or two for it to reset but after about a week, and after getting a little worst, I finally installed the PPE race valve that I have. Nothing has changed, and it still runs like crap.
If I put either of the HP tunes in the truck, it won’t even hold speed without puffing black smoke every 30sec or so. Under full throttle it’s still about 80% as fast but black smokes the entire time and sounds like the turbo is having trouble staying lit. Normally, the truck black smokes for the first 5sec and then clears up.
Things I have done:
I put the stock tune back in and it seems to run fine with no loss of (stock) power, sounds normal and drives normal.
I put a smaller McRat tune (450hp) and ran like crap, same as the large tune
I data logged a couple things – not really sure what to look at, but with either HP tune I could keep the throttle at a constant 30% (accelerating) as my truck started bogging and lugging. The commanded and Actual Boost voltage were going from 3.0V down to zero or less than one.
I took the boot off the front of the turbo and check the wheel, and it seems to have a small amount of play up and down, maybe .005-010 total. If you pull up on the wheel its harder to turn, but it does not hit the housing but has no play in and out.
I also did a bottle test and got no fuel in the bottle.
When I put he HP tunes back in, if the truck is cold, I can go around the block and floor it and it runs perfect, but as soon it starts to get warm 3-5 mins after, it starts runing bad and stays bad.
I had someone look at the turbo when I had the boot off that sled pulls duramaxs competitively, and he said my turbo seems to be shot. I just can’t understand why it runs perfect stock. I just really want to make sure that I am 100% sure that it is my turbo before I go spend $3500 to replace it with an aftermarket one.
Anyone have any ideas on thing to check? The Chevy dealership is about a useful as a poopy-flavored lollipop when it comes to diesels. Please help – thanks.
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