Pitman Arm

[J_Stone06]

So I read through the instructions on the pitman arm removal and going off what i was told by dmaxstore, I loosened to bolts on the steering box and was able to finally get the darn old pitman arm off. I looked on here but couldnt find out how yall get the darn thing back on...i aligned the grooves from new pitman arm and the sector shaft and then put the nut on and proceeded to tighten the new one on and holy cow...i need some guidance because I cant seem to get it to suck up anymore..BTW, I decided to scrub the whole cognito braces because I cant figure out how the hell they mount it all(clearance issues with kryptonite idler support and arm, etc). I have the ultimate stage 3 front end kit and leveling kit from dmaxstore...written instructions are vague for a noob and lack pictures that tell the entire story. How the hell do you mount the HD swaybar endlinks? What angle do the sit in relation to the LCA?? Pictures would be great. Thanks gents.

 

[c20elephant]

It's a tapered spline and their will be gap between the arm and steering box housing, can you post a picture.?

 

[J_Stone06]

It's a tapered spline and their will be gap between the arm and steering box housing, can you post a picture.?

I'd say there is a good 3/8 inch gap in the shaft. I still have it on a lift at the shop and didnt take pics

 

[c20elephant]

Should look like this
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[J_Stone06]

Should look like this
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I have the threaded output shaft and of course I wasnt paying attention to how many threads were exposed when removing old pitman arm

 

[c20elephant]

Wrong box, GM went to a Borgenson box in 2008-2009 IIRC, I did not check the year of your truck and the gap should be the about the same

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[J_Stone06]

Wrong box, GM went to a Borgenson box in 2007-2008 IIRC did not check the year of your truck...

I'm really trying not to pull the whole darn steering box out to replace the pitman. I also still have the endlinks(which Im unsure about angles to LCA) and new kryptonite UCAs to put on and finish it off with my lift keys...too much to do and not enough time to do it in

 

[WVRigrat05]

The aftermarket ones are thinner and require an extra washer to get it tight.(not sure if all of them work like that but thes moog and others I have used are like that)

I start it on wiggling it until I can get the bolt started, turn the bolt til it's snug, hit the Pittman arm and repeat until you have room for the washer, then do the same until it's asshole tight or it'll wiggle on the shaft (no pun intended) and cause steering play.

Mine have done that and I've had to add washers.

 

[WVRigrat05]

I can't post pics but I have lots of pics of my cognito links. I can text it to someone to post.

 

[J_Stone06]

The aftermarket ones are thinner and require an extra washer to get it tight.(not sure if all of them work like that but thes moog and others I have used are like that)

I start it on wiggling it until I can get the bolt started, turn the bolt til it's snug, hit the Pittman arm and repeat until you have room for the washer, then do the same until it's asshole tight or it'll wiggle on the shaft (no pun intended) and cause steering play.

Mine have done that and I've had to add washers.

Thanks for the reply. I got the moog problem solver and it didnt look thinner??

 

[c20elephant]

The aftermarket ones are thinner and require an extra washer to get it tight.(not sure if all of them work like that but thes moog and others I have used are like that)

I start it on wiggling it until I can get the bolt started, turn the bolt til it's snug, hit the Pittman arm and repeat until you have room for the washer, then do the same until it's asshole tight or it'll wiggle on the shaft (no pun intended) and cause steering play.

Mine have done that and I've had to add washers.

That's a F***ed up design, so much for the acronym OEM...

 

[WVRigrat05]

None of mine "looked" thinner either but I've always had to add an extra washer to keep it from moving, not sure why, just drive yours a bit and then have someone move the wheel back and forth with the truck off to make sure it's still tight.

I had a 1-5/16" wrench on mine with a cheater pipe and it still wobbled, put a washer above the lock washer and tight as can be, same thing on my LLY.

 

[WVRigrat05]

That's a F***ed up design, so much for the acronym OEM...

I don't think it's thinner I think the holes are sometimes a hair too big and lets it go up on the shaft just far enough to run out of threads with just the lock washer.

 

[J_Stone06]

I don't think it's thinner I think the holes are sometimes a hair too big and lets it go up on the shaft just far enough to run out of threads with just the lock washer.

I got mine up about 3 or 4 threads on the shaft...seems stupid tight but still has a gap from steering box and pitman arm

 

[WVRigrat05]

There is supposed to be a large gap. That is normal.

 

[J_Stone06]

There is supposed to be a large gap. That is normal.

God i hope you're right man...I guess I'm paranoid with kids riding

 

[WVRigrat05]

Gap should be almost as thick as the nut for the pitman arm not quite but close.

 

[Robby05]

Should look like this
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What 01+ 3/4 Ton truck uses that gear box?

 

[WVRigrat05]

That's an old Chevy. circa 80's

 

[WVRigrat05]

I'll try to post a pic of mine, mine has a 1/32-1/16 less gap than they come new.

Pic is upside down, wtf?