LBZ: Perfect turbo for 100% injectors LBZ

[Bdsankey]

I figured it won’t last long in that setup with the stock rotating assembly so I’m prepared to build it when the time comes


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So why not build it from the start? Blocks and cranks aren't cheap, let alone the possibility of damaging a head(s) or injector(s) from potential failure (depending how it happens) and being out even more money.

Like Josh said, a properly sized S400 will make tons of power and be very street-able.

 

[garrettlbz]

So why not build it from the start? Blocks and cranks aren't cheap, let alone the possibility of damaging a head(s) or injector(s) from potential failure (depending how it happens) and being out even more money.



Like Josh said, a properly sized S400 will make tons of power and be very street-able.

What’s the stock crank hp limit with an alternate fire cam?


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[garrettlbz]

I ran a 472/87 and a 476/92 on my truck, and I much preferred the 72 to the 76. I'm not sure how much was due to the compressor wheel change and how much was from the turbine wheel, but the 72 was much more responsive and made a little less power than the 76. If you have enough fuel, you can easily make 900 on a good 72mm turbo (that's what the time slip showed I was making); I was running 100% injectors and a 10mm cp3. If you want to add nitrous to it, you should be able to bump that up to 1000 hp without having to go crazy, and I think the 72 would be a lot more fun do drive as well.

I forgot to mention, this was all done on a very mildly built engine with a set of stock head castings and valves running SoCal valve springs and their standard fire 9100 cam (that is probably one of the best duramax camshafts available for a performance street application in my opinion).

What time did you run on the 472 setup? And how did you like the 10mm pump on the 100 overs?


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[Bdsankey]

What’s the stock crank hp limit with an alternate fire cam?


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The truck in my sig (1340hp/2200tq) with a single S480/96/1.10 T6, 250% overs, 14mm and stock LBZ, full billet trans, CP-Carrillo "hybrid" rotating assy @ 16.5:1, stock crank, stock main caps, ARP main studs, cheap ARP head studs, 6480AF, SoCal valve train is holding together fine. In my opinion, the crank isn't the main problem. The AF cams aren't proven to make a used crank last longer but they definitely cannot hurt on a new crank. They aren't the "be all end all" crank solution as cranks have still broken with them.

 

[garrettlbz]

The truck in my sig (1340hp/2200tq) with a single S480/96/1.10 T6, 250% overs, 14mm and stock LBZ, full billet trans, CP-Carrillo "hybrid" rotating assy @ 16.5:1, stock crank, 6480AF, SoCal valve train is holding together fine.



In my opinion, the crank isn't the main problem. The AF cams aren't proven to make a used crank last longer but they definitely cannot hurt on a new crank. They aren't the "be all end all" crank solution as cranks have still broken with them.

That is true but I was thinking I could reuse the alternate fire cam when the time comes for a lower end assuming it doesn’t get hurt when something let’s go.


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[bigmackmiller]

Precision 76

 

[Bdsankey]

That is true but I was thinking I could reuse the alternate fire cam when the time comes for a lower end assuming it doesn’t get hurt when something let’s go.


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A 3388AF cam is not one that I would use on a big power build with a single. A 3388AF is a great towing cam power trails off after ~3800rpm. The 3388AF is the largest cam from SoCal that you can run without valve reliefs. If you're going to put a cam in it just build the motor as you've got to remove heads to put the cam in. If you're not going to put a cam in it put a larger S400 on it and treat that baby like the mail and send it. A competent tuner can keep it alive for awhile unless you drive with a cinder block for a foot 24/7.


IMO if you're not going to build the motor now put a FI 472/87/.90 or 476/87/.90 on with a stroker pump or dual stocks with 100% overs and run it. It'll be fun and last awhile.

 

[Chevy1925]

That is true but I was thinking I could reuse the alternate fire cam when the time comes for a lower end assuming it doesn’t get hurt when something let’s go.


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save your money on the cam till after you build the engine. you will want more cam once you build it.

the cam isnt going to save the crank, rods or pistons (likely to loose a piston or crank first)

 

[garrettlbz]

A 3388AF cam is not one that I would use on a big power build with a single. A 3388AF is a great towing cam power trails off after ~3800rpm. The 3388AF is the largest cam from SoCal that you can run without valve reliefs. If you're going to put a cam in it just build the motor as you've got to remove heads to put the cam in. If you're not going to put a cam in it put a larger S400 on it and treat that baby like the mail and send it. A competent tuner can keep it alive for awhile unless you drive with a cinder block for a foot 24/7.


IMO if you're not going to build the motor now put a FI 472/87/.90 or 476/87/.90 on with a stroker pump or dual stocks with 100% overs and run it. It'll be fun and last awhile.

If I run a single pump to keep things simple would a 10mm be sufficient for my 100s or should I go to a 12 or 14 stroker?


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[Bdsankey]

If I run a single pump to keep things simple would a 10mm be sufficient for my 100s or should I go to a 12 or 14 stroker?


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Personally I'd go to a 12mm or 14mm if you plan on building the motor in the future. A single 10mm would get you quite a bit of power but I think you would be better off buying a bigger pump now vs adding a second when you build the motor. Another good pump to look at also (IMO) is the Industrial XP series which is bored and stroked. They are a little cheaper than a 14mm but flow a little more fuel.

A single pump will be easier to plumb/less cluttered as well as rob less HP to drive than 2x pumps.

 

[garrettlbz]

Personally I'd go to a 12mm or 14mm if you plan on building the motor in the future. A single 10mm would get you quite a bit of power but I think you would be better off buying a bigger pump now vs adding a second when you build the motor. Another good pump to look at also (IMO) is the Industrial XP series which is bored and stroked. They are a little cheaper than a 14mm but flow a little more fuel.



A single pump will be easier to plumb/less cluttered as well as rob less HP to drive than 2x pumps.

Exactly my thoughts for using a single instead of dual. I’ll definitely check out the xp. Industrials shop is only 3 hours from me so that’s a plus too.


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[Chevy1925]

Industrial has alot to prove IMHO. their claims have always been "higher" than actual and longevity from them has always been mediocre.

They are slowly getting better but i would much rather spend my money on parts from S&S or Exergy and so on.

 

[Bdsankey]

Industrial has alot to prove IMHO. their claims have always been "higher" than actual and longevity from them has always been mediocre.

They are slowly getting better but i would much rather spend my money on parts from S&S or Exergy and so on.

I would agree on their injectors. Their XP pumps have been put through their paces by many big power trucks. Based solely on volume the 8.5mm bore x 12mm stroke of the XP puts out more fuel than a standard bore x 14mm stroke CP3.

 

[Chevy1925]

I would agree on their injectors. Their XP pumps have been put through their paces by many big power trucks. Based solely on volume the 8.5mm bore x 12mm stroke of the XP puts out more fuel than a standard bore x 14mm stroke CP3.

that has yet to show longevity. they could all do that years ago as could other brands..... till they actually had decent run time and they started imploding.

and math says yes but what you get can vary. i would need to hear or see from guys how much more rail they gain from the swap. not base it on what the math says. industrial as i said before has made claims that were false.

 

[Bdsankey]

that has yet to show longevity. they could all do that years ago as could other brands..... till they actually had decent run time and they started imploding.

Touche. I don't know about longevity of them personally. After talking with a few guys who've used them they are all on competition trucks or low usage trucks and have proven to move a ton of fuel for multiple seasons.

 

[garrettlbz]

Touche. I don't know about longevity of them. After talking with a few guys who've used them they are all on competition trucks or low usage trucks.

Thanks for all the input really appreciated.


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[duramaxzak]

I had a Bullseye TCT S472/87 with .90/ar with 150% injectors and dual pumps when I bought it and it drove great and did 850hp at the wheels on Kennedy Diesel’s dyno.

 

[DylOrr]

I ran a 472/87 and a 476/92 on my truck, and I much preferred the 72 to the 76. I'm not sure how much was due to the compressor wheel change and how much was from the turbine wheel, but the 72 was much more responsive and made a little less power than the 76. If you have enough fuel, you can easily make 900 on a good 72mm turbo (that's what the time slip showed I was making); I was running 100% injectors and a 10mm cp3. If you want to add nitrous to it, you should be able to bump that up to 1000 hp without having to go crazy, and I think the 72 would be a lot more fun do drive as well.

I forgot to mention, this was all done on a very mildly built engine with a set of stock head castings and valves running SoCal valve springs and their standard fire 9100 cam (that is probably one of the best duramax camshafts available for a performance street application in my opinion).

I've heard a ton of complaints on the 92 turbine having awful spooling characteristics. I would assume that's where a lot of the responsiveness was lost.

 

[JoshH]

What time did you run on the 472 setup? And how did you like the 10mm pump on the 100 overs?


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Ran a [email protected] with a 1.77 60' in my 6,000 lb 2wd truck. In my opinion, the 100% overs were perfectly matched with the 10mm pump. If I planned on going much bigger than that, I would definitely want more flow from a bigger pump, but at the 900 hp power level I was running, the 10mm was able to supply an adequate amount of fuel.

If I run a single pump to keep things simple would a 10mm be sufficient for my 100s or should I go to a 12 or 14 stroker?


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A 12mm would be ideal and give just a little cushion of extra fuel.

 

[rcr1978]

SUBSCRIBING for future carnage thread, also none of you other assholes brought up the built trans so i'll be watching for a smokn maroon turd with a flat bed around here that won't spool (5500+ft) or put the power to the ground :angel: