Passenger side battery ground wire?

[J_Stone06]

So before I begin, I've had the same AGMs since like 2014. So, I'm aware I should probably get them load tested. However, I went to start the truck and it acted like the batteries were dead. Gave that audible click and no crank. I popped the hood and went to the passenger side battery and the stupid ground terminal sitting on the post is loose AF. The nut that tightens the terminal to the post is as tight as it can go. I wiggled it around and also noticed the copper stranded wires look to be pulled out of the terminal(somewhat). Is it literally just a single ground wire running from the negative post and grounding somewhere? I've googled it and looked at a bunch of diagrams and wondering if part number 22846480 is accurate as auxiliary battery ground cable? I'm a noob at the truck grounds. I've read several posts on here about people having ground issues with TCM, etc..but didn't stumble on this topic. Thanks for any help. Oh, BTW, I wiggled the ground a couple more times and truck fired right up and drove it home.

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[2004LB7]

If I remember correctly, the ground runs to the engine block on (near?) the front.

Before tightening up the clamp on the battery post, make sure it is fully seated all the way down. Sometimes you have to tap it down to seat it. The battery posts are tapered so if the clamp is not seated all the way down it won't tighten up when the nut is torqued down

It would probably be easier and cheaper to just replace the clamp then the whole ground cable. I like to use the brass ones and solder them to the cable. Best connection to the cable and doesn't deform like the lead ones do, but good quality lead ones work well too

 

[J_Stone06]

If I remember correctly, the ground runs to the engine block on (near?) the front.

Before tightening up the clamp on the battery post, make sure it is fully seated all the way down. Sometimes you have to tap it down to seat it. The battery posts are tapered so if the clamp is not seated all the way down it won't tighten up when the nut is torqued down

It would probably be easier and cheaper to just replace the clamp then the whole ground cable. I like to use the brass ones and solder them to the cable. Best connection to the cable and doesn't deform like the lead ones do, but good quality lead ones work well too

Right on, thanks

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[KyleC4]

If I remember correctly, the ground runs to the engine block on (near?) the front.

Before tightening up the clamp on the battery post, make sure it is fully seated all the way down. Sometimes you have to tap it down to seat it. The battery posts are tapered so if the clamp is not seated all the way down it won't tighten up when the nut is torqued down

It would probably be easier and cheaper to just replace the clamp then the whole ground cable. I like to use the brass ones and solder them to the cable. Best connection to the cable and doesn't deform like the lead ones do, but good quality lead ones work well too

Have you ever done a loaded voltage drop test after soldering on a new battery terminal end ? Just curious is all. I’ve never done it but I know some of the GM technical advisors tell us not to solder certain circuits do to it adding resistance to the circuit say over a factory style crimp cable.

 

[Dozerboy]

Ya people tend to over tighten the clamps and stretch them to the point they don’t get tight anymore. New ground cable is probably a few $100. I’d just replace the clamp. Some big truck parts stores can soldering a new clamp if you can’t.


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[Anotherduramax]

I finally gave up and made my own 2/0 grounds using military style battery connections. I have not had any issues since, I would highly recommend it, even if it’s only the negative cables for now.

 

[2004LB7]

Have you ever done a loaded voltage drop test after soldering on a new battery terminal end ? Just curious is all. I’ve never done it but I know some of the GM technical advisors tell us not to solder certain circuits do to it adding resistance to the circuit say over a factory style crimp cable.

Not specifically but I have never noticed any heat or other issues when done right. In theory, yes a good crimped connection is better but few have access to a proper ratchet crimper but many can pick up a small roll of electrical solder and torch and have a connection 99.99% as good as a ratchet crimper if they know how to solder.

I know the resistance of the soldered connection is below the capability of any of my meters. In fact it will likely be less then most and will likely take a lab setup to tell the difference. Just think, a 0.5 ohm resistance will output almost 2k watts of heat at 160 amps and 12 volts. The ones I've done don't even get warm

 

[Dozerboy]

With GMs junk connection these days I’m better off with solder. I guess that might not be fair though. Maybe it’s the high demand put on the electrical system that is the issue.


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[J_Stone06]

So I changed out the clamp with a brass one. Gosh, that cable is pretty tight with AGM battery that has boxed/recessed posts. It works though. Ideally, I wish GM woulda added an extra few inches of cable to the ground wire. I hope this solves my issue. Thanks for the input yall.

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[KyleC4]

Not specifically but I have never noticed any heat or other issues when done right. In theory, yes a good crimped connection is better but few have access to a proper ratchet crimper but many can pick up a small roll of electrical solder and torch and have a connection 99.99% as good as a ratchet crimper if they know how to solder.

I know the resistance of the soldered connection is below the capability of any of my meters. In fact it will likely be less then most and will likely take a lab setup to tell the difference. Just think, a 0.5 ohm resistance will output almost 2k watts of heat at 160 amps and 12 volts. The ones I've done don't even get warm

Believe me I’m well aware. I was looking for some real evidence to back up what those advisors say. I think the engineers step in and tell these advisors to say this knowing it could be done.

 

[Burn Down]

A properly soldered connection is as good or better than a crimp... I have soldered and crimped electrical connections for 20+ years and never had resistance issues with either one.