Henry and I had some PM dialect when I was thinking of full build. I decided to go with all of the stuff listed above pluss a fass and down pipe. I couldn't get Henry to return call or email, maybe I pissed him off?
Sean talked to you back on your drive home. We talked awhile and what to check out on your drive and once home. You also were in your last step before being limited to around 10 mph if shut off again. I told you that Kory from PPEI could program your truck in the area you were. That was 15th area in December I do not save every phone number that calls me so your number was not saved. There was no new voicemails and I checked your email address off here and searched my email accounts I have no emails about parts there
[email protected]
I have your pm were I gave you pricing for all the combos you were thinking about. And answered your ? About the motor only thing I did not give you was the pricing for a converter or Trans kit.
All Pm's and return Pm's back to you. I have had to clean out some very old pm' few weeks back I was not getting any my box was full. I will be deleting more very soon they add up. Good luck on your repair or future build.
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Private Message: Re: parts etc
Recipients: duramaxnokaoi | Reply To All
12-23-2013, 02:57 PM
ripmf666
Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wentzville Mo
Truck: 2006 2500 HD ex cab
Engine: Duramax 6.6
Transmission: Automatic
Posts: 14,992
Re: parts etc
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Originally Posted by duramaxnokaoi
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Originally Posted by ripmf666
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Originally Posted by duramaxnokaoi
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Originally Posted by ripmf666
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Originally Posted by duramaxnokaoi
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Originally Posted by ripmf666
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Originally Posted by duramaxnokaoi
HI Henry.
I spoke with you on my way home from florida with my new truck. Made it home, but its got head gasket issues.
I'm just going to do a motor swap with a low miles junkyard engine (i think). I plan to add a S475 over stock one day, so I'm thinking of putting ARP's in the new motor before it goes into the truck. Do you think a daily driver LML with 500-600 WHP will last a long time or do you think I need to get rods and slugs too?
Please let me know how much a head stud kit will be for the truck and anything else you recommend doing while its easy to access (including rods and pistons if the stock won't be up for daily abuse
thanks
sean
Hello Sean
If your going to abuse it with the S475 the stock rods will not last for the long road. I have the head gasket kit with arps on sale right now for 899 shipped normal 930.
Carrillo rods,Mahle race cast pistons,Clevite H series Rod,Mains and Thrust washer set,Overhaul gasket set W/Hg's, 4,700.00 shipped
Add ons for the motor build parts.
Arp head studs 540.00
Arp main studs 210.00
Arp flywheel bolts 70.00
Balancer bolt 9.00
Cam bolt 9.00
Talk later
Henry
Thanks Henry,
I few questions since I've never rebuilt a motor. Just being a HG (hoping and doubting its a cracked head) do you think I'll have to fully disassemble everything and have the block bored 10 or 20 over?
Money is an object to me, and I think you did get me good pricing on that stuff, but is there other rods or pistons that might not be as much money that you would recommend, or are those the best bet for the $?
Having seen the effects of stretching bolts I'd definitely order all ARP stuff.
Sorry for the stupid questions, I just have never done a full engine build, work hard for my money, and don't want to be foolish and not take the extra time to make sure things are done right.
Is there any need to get the crank/cam keyed at 5-600 HP?
Also, I'm in Asheville (Western) NC, do you know any good builders in the area that can help assemble everything? I've got a heated indoor space, plenty of tools etc…
The break down on cost for the rods and pistons in that bundle I priced I can not get you anything cheaper. And do not know of any part better then Carrillo the Manley rods there 2,399 a set and there no were the rod the Carrillo is and your getting those right at 100 cheaper then the Manley still once broke down. The pistons there the new race cast by Mahle with a new bowl and thicker top then oem lb7 pistons that guys delip. And yes I would key the crank and cam even if it was a stock rebuild.
I should be able to find you a builder around your area to help you out. With the motor you have now were if it's just Hgs you could pull heads have them checked. Then install new gaskets and studs and just run it. But on boring the blocks they start at .020 and go up. But you drove the truck if it had a cracked piston you would not of made it home.
Thanks Henry. I feel like I should go ahead and just order the package and be done with it, but I'd really like to find someone who's competent that can hep me get everything back together again, the right way. There seems to be plenty of builders in the area, just not any that are familiar with duramax motors (that I can find).
If everything looks fine and there is no obvious scoring or wear on the cylinder walls would you think its necessary to have them put .20, honed, or do you think it might be ok to just put the new pistons in without doing anything?
Are rods standard and don't change and just their bearings change?
Sorry for all the questions, but hopefully this about covers it.
Are you a GM tech or mechanic or just a good old fashioned gear head?
When you pull the heads there will still be leopard spotting on the walls along with cross hatching from the factory honing. That's not the issue on the block at all. With it having the mileage like other motor if you drop the piston down in the cylinder bore and take a 3 finger dial bore caliber. The block starts to oblong a few inches down in the hole past the leopard spotting. So once you hone and install those nice new piston and rings you will not get the same ring seal you would on a fresh hole. Once you spend the money a few more on the block being right is well worth it.
The rod and main bearings can change if the the crank needs polished a lot or turned.
Yes I sell converters and Trans kits also.
I work for Gm at the plant level and find time to search there power train areas a lot. I have also been into racing most of my life from the gasser area then crossed over to diesels in the start of 05 more so then got my Lbz and started playing. I'm getting ready to start offering LSX parts soon once I find time to play with the SS Camaro we got.
Thanks for sharing, I know that gets kinda personal and this is business, but I run a small business and I make mine personal (whether its a good idea or not I don't know, but its working out so far).
So you're recommendation will be to go .020 over no matter what (minimum) and what would be the maximum you feel is safe for a LML block (I seriously doubt we'll need to go past that but I'm just curious). Do you see many that need to go over .020 over?
Anyway, I understand now that this is no matter what going to be a very involved process, and thats ok cause I still have my lbz to drive. So, any luck finding an engine builder locally to me? If not since everything is going to be pulled from the truck I guess it wouldn't be that big of a deal to get everything on a pallet and just ship it somewhere if I need to. At this mileage I guess I should also be looking at reworking the heads…? Let me know your thoughts on the heads if you don't mind.
How likely is it that I cracked a head and its not a head gasket? I started thinking it was just a bad coolant reservoir and cap, replaced those and refilled the system and drove it fairly hard trying to burp all the air out of the system.
Also, please get me a price on a good all around converter and anything else you think we should do while in there (maybe water pump. oil pump?).
Hope you and your have a great holiday season!
sean
I will touch the rest later .020 is were most go .040 is the max I would want for a daily. I would have the heads checked for sure gasket kit needed one way or the other with those. Atleast you tried the cap like I said when we talked when you were driving it home. If the heads were not ran hot it's hard to say if there cracked. I think I have a shop down by your area for you to use. And yes yes on a oil cooler and oil pump if you think and thing went through there at least the oil pump there is a tsb from GM on them making noice already. Mahle/Clevite released a update that there raising the prices on gaskets bearings and pistons. Will not know if my supplier try's to raise my prices on me till after jan 2nd.
Henry