So recently I've been debating selling my truck to fund another project I've been wanting to do (4 door Jeep Wrangler with a Cummins/Allison), so I'd like to get it all pretty for some pictures. Problem is I have a lot of something (I'm assuming sap/pollen) that seems to be embedded in the clear coat. Can't get it off no matter how hard I scrub. Someone at work suggested a 2000 grit wet sanding followed by some quality time with a buffer. Good advice or no? Anyone have a better idea? Let's please skip the Duramax vs Cummins debates for the sake of this thread. Thanks in advance guys.
Paint Question
- Thread starter SgtKilroy
- Start date
Clay bar works like a champ. You can get it at walmart in the automotive detailing section. But to clay bar an entire truck takes a good few hours.
Pics would definitely help so we know what you're dealing with. Using a clay bar will remove impediments that are attached to your clear coat that soap and water won't remove. I've used it to remove paint overspray before. Look it up on detail forums or there's good vids on YouTube. It's a little work, but the benefits are very noticeable.
Thanks for the responses guys. I'll grab some pictures for you tomorrow. I'm sure good ol SoCal won't let me down on the good lighting part. I was honestly kinda hoping the wet sanding / buffer thing was a viable option. Any excuse to use a power tool, am I right?!:woott:
Clay bar it first you will surprised how much crap will come off. Most car washes will do it if you don't want to.
Wow that looks really bad. Start with a clay bar then polishing, but I wouldn't be surprised if you need to wet sand and polish.
Turpintine will pull sap without harming factory finish,also wax and grease remover from any paint supply shop works like a champ to.If you watersand be prepared for a lot of polishing.I HATE sap,makes my job a major PITA.
We get get that crap all over our trucks and I'm to much of a chicken to sand it but the clay bar takes it right out
The polishing with a power tool I don't mind. I think the wife will just be happy I'm putting it up for sale. I haven't told her that it's to fund another project vehicle yet.
Power tools are fun and fast. That can be the issue though too. Your clear coat is not very thick at all. Maybe 2 mils from factory.
Any sort of surface contamination can usually be removed with some product. I used to use clay bar and still do but prefer autoscrub nanokin pads. Put them on a da and go to town.
Don't "scrub" with the clay bar, thats not what its meant to do. I wouldn't really use one for tree sap, it doesn't work well and clay is expensive. Get yourself a heat gun and warm the sap up, then us a plastic putty knife to help lift it off or a rag to wipe it up but try not to smear it. The residue left over can be removed with IPA or Stoner Tarminator usually. You can try tarminator to begin with but heat always helps.
Wet sanding is just going to move it around IMO, could be wrong though. You don't need to sand or buff unless your finish is etched or marred. If so try buffing first and then sanding only if necessary. It's not like a piece of metal,. don't jump in with the aggressive stuff first.
With a white finish it wont be noticeable but with darker finishes you would need to blend the buffing into the entire panel because it will likely be obvious unless you take perfect care of your paint.
For heavy cut compound I like Menzerna FG400. For medium PF2500.