Info: Oil coolers ?

[E.carter]

Oil cooler....

This oil cooler flows very easy and drops heat very quick. I am not sure what it would take to plumb up but I think it would mount in a frame rail or under the front end somewhere real nice. It is for a reverser on a combine and the reverser holds 4.9 liters of syn HD460 gear oil. Let me know if I am being dumb.... It was just a thought http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

 

[sweetdiesel]

THis is somewhat after the thread fact. Micheal has the best bolt on gig, based on calcs. IMO- the oil needs to be cooled seperate from the water, the factory design is great for efficiencey, until the motor gets hot.

I removed the factory oil cooler, and plumbed it totally seperate from the water system. Drawback? To this point, I'll have to run a lighter oil for start up... no big since it shouldn't get hotter... driving higher viscosity.

I installed a dual fan set up (oil/trans), drivers side under the truck, next to the driveshaft. Remote filters, soft lines for fab then go to the lines that meet heat/pressure spec's.

The oil cooler will be pricey, it's a get what you pay for gig.

Strictly fan cooled is going to be enough?

 

[Killerbee]

Strictly fan cooled is going to be enough?

I believe so. In reality you probably can obtain better heat exchange with fans alone, at speeds under 60 mph, my estimation. Fans serve to pull during the slow times as well the fast.

Then again, what do you want to accomplish? I know of no other EOC with a higher potential heat rejection capability, and still fit in a practical location.

 

[RickDLance]

THis is somewhat after the thread fact. Micheal has the best bolt on gig, based on calcs. IMO- the oil needs to be cooled seperate from the water, the factory design is great for efficiencey, until the motor gets hot.

I removed the factory oil cooler, and plumbed it totally seperate from the water system. Drawback? To this point, I'll have to run a lighter oil for start up... no big since it shouldn't get hotter... driving higher viscosity.

I installed a dual fan set up (oil/trans), drivers side under the truck, next to the driveshaft. Remote filters, soft lines for fab then go to the lines that meet heat/pressure spec's.

The oil cooler will be pricey, it's a get what you pay for gig.

Are you concerned with overcoming the heat load that is already under the truck? It is massive from what I can tell.

I think that may be one of the reasons GM choose the system they did.

 

[keith2500hd]

what about using PPE's internal oil cooler delete kit to remove and isolate oil and coolant. agree with rick, can't just add other equipment and have it dump its heat to be recirced underneath truck. may need to modify lower airdam(extend down) and have ducting to cooler and help route it away from truck, should be fine for hiway usage. wonder how well it would work to place cooler in aft section of fender, similar to old TransAm's or new power stroke/denali vents, but bigger. have electric fans for town and ducting from airdam for hiway. could put fuel cooler on opposite side for balance/appearence.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I believe so. In reality you probably can obtain better heat exchange with fans alone, at speeds under 60 mph, my estimation. Fans serve to pull during the slow times as well the fast.
what about racing
Then again, what do you want to accomplish? I know of no other EOC with a higher potential heat rejection capability, and still fit in a practical location.

Accomplish I want the best of all worlds

 

[the4wheeler]

http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_theoc.html
they dont stat any flow ratings and im shur they are pricy but defensively have good assortment of mounting options
any thoughts?

 

[MAXLLY]

Are you concerned with overcoming the heat load that is already under the truck? It is massive from what I can tell.

I think that may be one of the reasons GM choose the system they did.

I thought about it, I'm sure it's substantial. I think i prolly overcompensated for heat soak and the water temp with the fans, oil cooler size/cooling surface and number of passes on the cooler. I may have to put a switch on the fan.

IMO- GM did what every decent engineer would do and stuck it up in front with little or nothing else in front of it... free clean air. I felt the air to water radiator for the intake was more important and difficult to plumb than the oil.

If i find it's (oil cooler) overloaded my electric water pump for the water to air exchanger can plumb another line and cool the oil as well.

 

[MAXLLY]

http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_theoc.html
they dont stat any flow ratings and im shur they are pricy but defensively have good assortment of mounting options
any thoughts?

I looked at this stuff, really nice. Search more they have some VERY nice liquid exchangers as well IIRC.

Top shelf IMO.

These guys are 30 minutes north of me, give a sh*t, and fab/test the stuff 25' behind where i buy it. They can and will think outside the box. http://www.pwr-performance.com/

 

[LBZrcks]

Thoughts:

We already have an oil cooler that heats the oil up to 210 F. So unless you disable that, you won't be cooling the oil as much as cooling the water. Unless you are just worried about oil temps that are far higher than the water temp. I'd kinda like to see the oil never get past 180F in the pan. If you think about it, reducing the water temp will in turn reduce the oil temps. Anyone for some 150 deg water thermostats?
If I were worried about piston life, I'd try to do something significant with the oil temp. Perhaps a something like a differential oil cooler that is plumbed into the drain hole for it's pickup, and the oil fill neck for it's exit. They come with small pumps and a fan, and are independent of the oil system. This way, the existing oiling system still goes on it's merry way cooling the oil to water temperatures while you cool the sump further with a remote radiator.

Would there be any disadvantages to running lower temp t-stats or removing them from our trucks? besides maybe using the heater while it's cold?

 

[sweetdiesel]

Are you concerned with overcoming the heat load that is already under the truck? It is massive from what I can tell.

I think that may be one of the reasons GM choose the system they did.

Is it that bad Rick?

what about using PPE's internal oil cooler delete kit to remove and isolate oil and coolant. .

I dont think they sell it anymore IIRC




KB what would be weong with just adding a seperate cooler? Concern about GPH?

 

[RickDLance]

Is it that bad Rick?

Up at Kennedy's during PUSU we heating the building up with my truck on the dyno to the point of having to open the doors in sub freezing weather!

I would guess that 95% of all the heat the engine generates goes under the truck and out the back when the truck is moving. IMHO, it's going to be hard for an air to air cooler to make a substantial difference in those conditions.

 

[Killerbee]

Up at Kennedy's during PUSU we heating the building up with my truck on the dyno to the point of having to open the doors in sub freezing weather!

That is because it generates 500,000 BTU/hr. About 15-20 times more than what any garage heater generates.


The entire vehicle operation is ultimately air cooled.

Maybe I missed something here, but I thought you were the big proponent of the add-on radiator "cure", the end-all be-all, also located "under the truck"..

 

[Fingers]

The oil cooler on the engine receives water from the cool side of the radiator. Thus it is < 210* but can vary from as little as ambient to 180* or so. IIRC, even an overheating engine is getting water in the 180*-190* range from the radiator.

It was never clear to me what the oil temps were post cooler on a high reving motor. I do know the pan temps get way up there on a hard working engine.

If I was going to do an oil cooler mod, I would work on a higher capacity water to oil cooler in the stock location and use at least a dual filter setup to improve flow. For extreme duty, I would add a pan cooler. Probably, water/oil.

I would also avoid adding any additional length to the path the oil has to travel. Such as to an external oil/air cooler. If nothing else, because of pumping losses.

Everything I have read indicates that ideal oil temp is about 180* for lubrication.



But what do I know.......

 

[RickDLance]

That is because it generates 500,000 BTU/hr. About 15-20 times more than what any garage heater generates.


The entire vehicle operation is ultimately air cooled.

Maybe I missed something here, but I thought you were the big proponent of the add-on radiator "cure", the end-all be-all, also located "under the truck"..

I'm not talking about curing an overheater here.

You're also not talking apples to apples with your post.

The stack is at the front of the vehicle starting with a fresh air stream. It adds it's offloading heat to the underneath of the vehicle. Then the engine assembly itself adds even more heat. Then the exhaust system adds even more. Then the tranny dissipates even more heat into the cavity under the truck. Now putting a cooler there after all that, IMHO, can not even come close to being as efficient as putting one up front in that fresh air stream.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Up at Kennedy's during PUSU we heating the building up with my truck on the dyno to the point of having to open the doors in sub freezing weather!

I would guess that 95% of all the heat the engine generates goes under the truck and out the back when the truck is moving. IMHO, it's going to be hard for an air to air cooler to make a substantial difference in those conditions.

Went out to the truck this morning and there is no snow under my truck

I never even thought about that before...Something to keep in mind

 

[MAXLLY]

Went out to the truck this morning and there is no snow under my truck

I never even thought about that before...Something to keep in mind

hope you had no snow under your truck... it covers the driveway right? Sorry... I never get to be the smart ass!! :joker: