Info: Oil coolers ?

MMLMM

Tunergeek
Mar 2, 2008
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Also look at how banks do there filter relocate on there marine engine, that what you could use to connect the cooler inline.

You could also tap the gauge in right at the factory oil cooler (i think theres a plug there)
 

slowlmm

New member
Mar 2, 2008
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Also look at how banks do there filter relocate on there marine engine, that what you could use to connect the cooler inline.

You could also tap the gauge in right at the factory oil cooler (i think theres a plug there)

yea dint know if remote oil filter woule be neccesary i have seen the sandwich plate adapters the screw onto to the filter base. i guess now just need to find the right cooler and get a guage to do before and after.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
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Thoughts:

We already have an oil cooler that heats the oil up to 210 F. So unless you disable that, you won't be cooling the oil as much as cooling the water. Unless you are just worried about oil temps that are far higher than the water temp. I'd kinda like to see the oil never get past 180F in the pan. If you think about it, reducing the water temp will in turn reduce the oil temps. Anyone for some 150 deg water thermostats?

If I were worried about piston life, I'd try to do something significant with the oil temp. Perhaps a something like a differential oil cooler that is plumbed into the drain hole for it's pickup, and the oil fill neck for it's exit. They come with small pumps and a fan, and are independent of the oil system. This way, the existing oiling system still goes on it's merry way cooling the oil to water temperatures while you cool the sump further with a remote radiator.
 

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
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Thoughts:

We already have an oil cooler that heats the oil up to 210 F. So unless you disable that, you won't be cooling the oil as much as cooling the water. Unless you are just worried about oil temps that are far higher than the water temp. I'd kinda like to see the oil never get past 180F in the pan. If you think about it, reducing the water temp will in turn reduce the oil temps. Anyone for some 150 deg water thermostats?

If I were worried about piston life, I'd try to do something significant with the oil temp. Perhaps a something like a differential oil cooler that is plumbed into the drain hole for it's pickup, and the oil fill neck for it's exit. They come with small pumps and a fan, and are independent of the oil system. This way, the existing oiling system still goes on it's merry way cooling the oil to water temperatures while you cool the sump further with a remote radiator.

I was thinking about that also,Why couldnt you just come off the oil galley or cam jounal or one of the oil cooler taps and return to the pan? You would gain pressure with no need for a seperate pump??
I would mount the cooler under the truck where it wouldnt get heat soaked and run a fan to cool while sitting
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
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One thing about our trucks under load:

The oil pressure falls as you work the truck hard. My opinion is the last thing you would want to do is to make the cooling system dependent on the oil pressure.

Yes, it would be a PITA to run a remote pump (they weigh 3 lb) and a separate cooling system, but when you needed it the most, high water temp + low oil pressure, it would work the best since the oil would be thinner and hotter. This might be why we crack pistons and overheat. When we need oil cooling the most, it's the least effective. Say you are running hot uphill under big load. The water is 230 deg, and the oil pressure has fallen to 35 PSI. The oil is now getting less cooling temp, and flowing slower to boot.
 

slowlmm

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Mar 2, 2008
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One thing about our trucks under load:

The oil pressure falls as you work the truck hard. My opinion is the last thing you would want to do is to make the cooling system dependent on the oil pressure.

Yes, it would be a PITA to run a remote pump (they weigh 3 lb) and a separate cooling system, but when you needed it the most, high water temp + low oil pressure, it would work the best since the oil would be thinner and hotter. This might be why we crack pistons and overheat. When we need oil cooling the most, it's the least effective. Say you are running hot uphill under big load. The water is 230 deg, and the oil pressure has fallen to 35 PSI. The oil is now getting less cooling temp, and flowing slower to boot.

How is tht ? im not quite sure i follow. the more rpm the harder the trucks working the greater my oil psi is ?
 

LBZrcks

.........
Jun 2, 2007
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How is tht ? im not quite sure i follow. the more rpm the harder the trucks working the greater my oil psi is ?

I believe he is talking about luggin up hills and egt's along with ECT get hotter, along with oil and it thins out.
 

MadMaxx61

Devilmaxx
Oct 13, 2008
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Why not save up and go dry sump???

If I remember right there is a factory dry sump oil pan for it out there. If I am wrong I am sure someone has made one like Banks and a few others.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
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Care to share?:D

Yeah my trucks don't hold pressure, I will start at the bottom of a hill at 60PSI and it drops to 45 by the top of a hill. It's a "poor man's pyro" for the Dmax. When you drop more 15 PSI, it's time to back off.

But racing/pulling does the same thing, you just don't see it as easy due to gauge reaction time.

The oil squirters under the pistons get the oil hot, then it thins. The turbo oiling heats it too. Until the whole sump heats up, the pressure stays high. Then it starts pumping hot, thinner oil, and the pressure gauge begins to fall.
 

Killerbee

Got Honey?
Reposted from another thread:

your pressure gauge is the best indicator you have of the motors warm-up. High pressure is not a good thing, it tells you that the oil is very thick (cold) and resists flowing, not good for the motor...hence why it is believed that cold starts make for 80% of the wear of the motor. Upon warm-up, when the pressure finally reduces, oil becomes more useful as a lubricant. Unfortunately, temperature is the key parameter for lub properties, not pressure. The motor is designed to a specific viscosity, and it just happens that 15W-40 reaches that viscosity right around 200 degrees. Anything much lower or higher, and you get less than the intended lubrication.

On cold mornings, viscosity is so high, the oil won't run through the filter. One of the best longevity moves you can make is discipline to avoid cold starts, plug-in to keep the oil warm for that morning start. I also use and recommend a 5W-xx or 0W-xx oil. It makes a good difference.

The more sustained load you experience, the higher your oil temperature. Some year groups get hotter than others. The LLY has other issues that also make oil temp worse.

Ballpark: if you are driving hard enough to kick on your fan, oil is 240 minimum. If that load is sustained, oil rises above 300 F. That temp is the cause of your gauge pressure drop...decreased viscosity...decreased lubrication...you get the picture.

Unloaded vehicles are not subject to the same. Oil typically runs 20 degrees warmer than water, following a design spec.
 

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
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THis is somewhat after the thread fact. Micheal has the best bolt on gig, based on calcs. IMO- the oil needs to be cooled seperate from the water, the factory design is great for efficiencey, until the motor gets hot.

I removed the factory oil cooler, and plumbed it totally seperate from the water system. Drawback? To this point, I'll have to run a lighter oil for start up... no big since it shouldn't get hotter... driving higher viscosity.

I installed a dual fan set up (oil/trans), drivers side under the truck, next to the driveshaft. Remote filters, soft lines for fab then go to the lines that meet heat/pressure spec's.

The oil cooler will be pricey, it's a get what you pay for gig.