Dan can you give me some more info on this?
after you delete the factory cooler what do you do as far as the new cooler?
after you delete the factory cooler what do you do as far as the new cooler?
oil cooler delete
- Thread starter sweetdiesel
- Start date
Not to speak for Dan (this is his product), I just finished installation of this product.
1. This kit allows you to run up to #12 line from engine to cooler and back.
2. It's tapped in (2) places for feeding single or twin chargers, IIRC it has (1) each 1/2" and 1/4" ID line/holes.
3. It removes the heat load from the cooling system and isolates it a stand alone cooler.
4. It is black anodized billet alumineeum. (I like spelling it like that)
Potential issue: You'll need to fab a new portion of coolant line. The existing metal line that runs from the water pump to the back of the motor will be 5-6"" to short. The new line isn't a straight shot, you'll need a 1 3/4" "U" bend and some silicone hose to get from factory line to the new transition plate mounted to the rear cover.
If you have time and equipment/talent you could fab an entirely new hardline and flatten it to fit between the motor mount and the exhaust mani. A silicone hose will not fit and IS NOT desirable as it rests directly against the manifold. I looked into a braided line with teflon and it's only good to 450*, no line i found fit the design criteria. I base this on 750* intermitent and 230* coolant temp.
Hope this helps.
1. This kit allows you to run up to #12 line from engine to cooler and back.
2. It's tapped in (2) places for feeding single or twin chargers, IIRC it has (1) each 1/2" and 1/4" ID line/holes.
3. It removes the heat load from the cooling system and isolates it a stand alone cooler.
4. It is black anodized billet alumineeum. (I like spelling it like that)
Potential issue: You'll need to fab a new portion of coolant line. The existing metal line that runs from the water pump to the back of the motor will be 5-6"" to short. The new line isn't a straight shot, you'll need a 1 3/4" "U" bend and some silicone hose to get from factory line to the new transition plate mounted to the rear cover.
If you have time and equipment/talent you could fab an entirely new hardline and flatten it to fit between the motor mount and the exhaust mani. A silicone hose will not fit and IS NOT desirable as it rests directly against the manifold. I looked into a braided line with teflon and it's only good to 450*, no line i found fit the design criteria. I base this on 750* intermitent and 230* coolant temp.
Hope this helps.
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Not that i am aware of.
Having dismantled the entire assembly i think i can say with some assurance that a better job can be done, from a performance standpoint. There was a guy on DP that created/did some research on a add exchanger for oil and set it beneath the bumper. I have the link on my home computer if you are interested i will post it for you.
That was funny!
I wanted to know because I never flow tested the stock cooler. I honestly think that it has value, the oil warms up faster with it.
I wanted to know because I never flow tested the stock cooler. I honestly think that it has value, the oil warms up faster with it.
Man I swear all the names run together after awhile.... :banging:
I need to put faces with names to get it right.
An oil cooler delete and cleaner-looking water pump delete are on my winter list of changes to be made. Mike, I would be using a large external cooler with fans; is there an ideal location to place it so that it does not restrict lubrication during cold starts?
Tim FYI there are some real nice water to air coolers if you want to get fancy
If your woried about looseing oil on cold starts just run the cooler high and intall a check valve in the supply line
I'm not running a oil cooler any more but I also don't Dd abby
If your woried about looseing oil on cold starts just run the cooler high and intall a check valve in the supply line
I'm not running a oil cooler any more but I also don't Dd abby
my cooler is the one Killerbee used to sell, I got it second-hand and I have to say, it is really really nice quality. I guess I can try to mount it up higher in front of the radiator stack. My AC is gone. I am a little lost on the check valve though, what would that do for me?
Thanks Simon.
Thanks Simon.
Simon, I am definitely doing a water pump cover and crossover tube delete similar to yours though, I hate the fact that my headers are so close to the crossover tube and oil cooler. what did you use for machined parts in your oil cooler delete to block the oil and water passages?
The filter adapter on killerbees kit has a thermostat in it anyways so the only way to have zero oil pressure untill the cooler fills with oil is if you run no thermostat at all.
Can someone give some more details (parts used and pics) on what it takes to delete the oil cooler and water pump cover and cross over delete. I would like to do this on the puller.
THANKS -Steven
THANKS -Steven