Oil choices for built engines
- Thread starter bullfrogjohnson
- Start date
Cenpeco is good oil. the 15-40 has a TBN of 14. That is very high. The next highest I know of is Convoy 15-40 that I have been using. It is a parasynthetic. The cenpeco is a dino with a heavy parafin base. They have street use oil and "puller oil" that is heavy on lubricity and has less of the additive for the soot control. Alot of the big pullers change there oil after every pulling event.
I have been in my LLY. Importkilla used to run it in his LB7 before selling it. 15-40, not the 20-50.
Yes........D.D./ pull/ race/ tow...........previous post is correct that the 20W-50 racing oil has a 'lesser' additive package so we need to be prepared to shorten service intervals. I figure that's a small price to pay in order to keep this thing alive for 200K
There's a lot of variables............but I just check it after every pull or race to see how it looks. I have been changing it more than actually needed since I got the truck back on the road. I didn't want to see dirty oil!
But to answer your question.....I think 2500 mi. shouldn't be too hard to get. Again, a lot of variables that would affect it. If you run a 'clean' tune...it should do much better.
I see you just got your's back on the road. Congrat's and good luck with the oil!
Ed.
But to answer your question.....I think 2500 mi. shouldn't be too hard to get. Again, a lot of variables that would affect it. If you run a 'clean' tune...it should do much better.
I see you just got your's back on the road. Congrat's and good luck with the oil!
Ed.
Travis, I wouldn't do that...........look at Cen-Pe-Co 15/40 .....or Valv/Cummins 15/40. (or Schaeffers Moly-Bond X200 15/40).
Straight 50 would be good for built motors and 'no cold-weather starts'.
alwats been a fan of cen-pe-co. I know before the silver bullet pulling tractor switched to cen-pe-co they were replacing bearings every 4 passes.
Looks like ill need a big barrel for next year.
Looks like ill need a big barrel for next year.
If you have questions on when to change the oil just get a UOA kit (used oil analysis) and have it checked. Then you can do what is called ruling out UOA by checking the oil at 2500 miles, 3000, 3500 and so on to see where the breaking point is. I know of a good place that is inexpensive.
I honestly dont think your going to get a better fluid than AMSOIL or REDLINE, for gas or diesel.
Here in all our race engine builds we use Amsoil, and have had tremendous results while in use and really impresive wear findings during a teardown where Amsoil was used, i cant say that about any other fluid except redline.
Here in all our race engine builds we use Amsoil, and have had tremendous results while in use and really impresive wear findings during a teardown where Amsoil was used, i cant say that about any other fluid except redline.
My oppinion was unbiased as i had to be proven wrong about the oil's i "thought" were the best, years went by and i became a complete beliver in amsoil products and yes now i too am a dealer, have been for about 5 years now.
An older article
http://members.cox.net/beekiller/GMC Light Duty/OIL COOLING.doc
Did this a couple years back. It may be of some use here.
What is noteworthy, is that oil testing is all well and good, but it doesn't tell you much about its lubrication characteristics at 200 F, 300 F, 400 F...and oil does get that hot locally. Something to think about, have the oil sample tested at 300F.
http://members.cox.net/beekiller/GMC Light Duty/OIL COOLING.doc
Did this a couple years back. It may be of some use here.
What is noteworthy, is that oil testing is all well and good, but it doesn't tell you much about its lubrication characteristics at 200 F, 300 F, 400 F...and oil does get that hot locally. Something to think about, have the oil sample tested at 300F.
Great link and info.
as a matter of fact all of amsoil's testing of diesel and HP racing oils are tested @ +150*C which is like what +320*F.
Here is some info.
Racing oils.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rd50.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rd30.aspx
Diesel oils.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx
Good idea to stay away from multi-viscosity oils in severe applications. The additive package, particularly the viscosity modifiers, are very sensitive to temperature, and oxidize readily at relatively low temps.
The big downside is cold start wear and low flow during warmup. If it is not a kid shuttle grocery getter, then it makes sense to avoid the mult-viscosity stuff. IMO
The big downside is cold start wear and low flow during warmup. If it is not a kid shuttle grocery getter, then it makes sense to avoid the mult-viscosity stuff. IMO