O-Ring Cylinder Head Specs
- Thread starter Chilly
- Start date
O-Ringing cylinder heads (size & material)
Some guys cut the block, and others cylinder heads.
Local reputable shop has been cutting heads forever, so I got my heads done last build running 625 studs.
Heads were cut leaving 0.015” protrusion running 0.041” stainless cut to length wire. Ends were filed flat to leave smallest gap possible.
I got some one piece steel rings from another very reputable shop that are 0.070” thick and want the cylinder head cut 0.063”, leaving only 0.007” protrusion.
What material is everyone running and how much protrusion? One piece, or cut to length wire? What seems to be working?
Some guys cut the block, and others cylinder heads.
Local reputable shop has been cutting heads forever, so I got my heads done last build running 625 studs.
Heads were cut leaving 0.015” protrusion running 0.041” stainless cut to length wire. Ends were filed flat to leave smallest gap possible.
I got some one piece steel rings from another very reputable shop that are 0.070” thick and want the cylinder head cut 0.063”, leaving only 0.007” protrusion.
What material is everyone running and how much protrusion? One piece, or cut to length wire? What seems to be working?
I can say for certain that GM LML-C gaskets are only good to about 800hp max.. That's where I noticed them start building coolant pressure on the engine dyno before letting at 900. I'll let you know on Victory wave guides here in a few weeks. But I'm betting they'll hold 900 without 0-rings.
As to the original question, the preferred way is to O-ring the block if you haven't assembled it yet. I wasn't able to find anyone locally who would do a set of heads for me. Issue is, your one and done on the heads. If something happens where you need to plane one, that's no longer an option once ya cut the ring in..
You should fairly easily be able to cut another .0xx amount out of the current o-ring groove if you have to resurface the head. these heads are easy to setup in a mill.
If the information came from a reputable shop (IIRC you said Wagler previously) then I wouldn't worry about it. Everyone is going to have their own way of doing it. Protrusion is what matters most.
We ran fire/o-rings in our wagler aluminum heads without a problem. Got new rings from wagler every off season. They were never blown but I always pulled heads and pans during the winter. We actually only had arp2000s and never had a problem. This is a solid head(no water jackets at all) on a filled block using graphite head gaskets. Around 75psi at 16xx hp.
If you are running aluminum heads on an iron block, the ideal way is to machine the block for the ring. But either way will work. I had the short block done waiting on the heads from wagler before I remembered about that....
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If you are running aluminum heads on an iron block, the ideal way is to machine the block for the ring. But either way will work. I had the short block done waiting on the heads from wagler before I remembered about that....
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Awesome, Thanks! Heads are going to machine shop tomorrow to run the thicker 0.070" one piece steel rings from Wagler.
I checked valve to cylinder head deck height and was quite surprised at the variance of the valve seats. These are stage 1 heads from Wagler.
Left head: Intake, 0.016"min - 0.022"max
Left head: Exhaust 0.020"min - 0.027"max
Right head: Intake, 0.015"min - 0.022"max
Right head: Exhaust 0.024"min - 0.032"max
This was done with a depth gauge.
Is this normal to have such differences between valve heights?
I looked up specs for valve depression and found 0.0236" (service limit 0.0984") for intake and 0.0354" (service limit 0.0787") for exhaust.
I am little confused as my measurements are much lower than allowable limits. Are those the correct measurements?
New engine is getting Fingers pistons with 0.075" valve cut outs. Piston protrusion is 0.007-0.010", running stage 1 cam.
Anyone know exactly how much material I can take off these heads? Or do they already need to have the valves recessed?
Thanks
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If I were going to do it I would oring the block not the head. When doing the head it makes it almost not serviceable. You run out if material to clean the head up again. The protrusion is about right. I run .006 above deck when doing it in the block. They didn’t give you a centerline diameter for the oring to be cut?
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If I had to do it all over again, yes I would O-ring the block. Local builder insisted on doing heads, so went with his thoughts originally. If these were stock heads I would sell them and machine the block.
I talked to Wagler and he said running the thicker wire in the head is not a problem.
Yes Wagler did give me a center diameter to be cut, I believe it was 4.400"
Best answer I got on how much I can machine the head was to check piston to valve clearance with a new gasket and clay. I was told no less than 0.050".
I talked to Wagler and he said running the thicker wire in the head is not a problem.
Yes Wagler did give me a center diameter to be cut, I believe it was 4.400"
Best answer I got on how much I can machine the head was to check piston to valve clearance with a new gasket and clay. I was told no less than 0.050".
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Head resurface can continue until you run out if enough materials for them to be durable. I think the valve recess needs to be 6-8cc of volume. You would have to cut the intake side the more you take off the surface to keep alignment issues from occurring. As you take off the surface side it changes the angle and at some point the bridge won’t fit and you would have trouble getting the cp3 in because it will touch the clamshells. You would also need to tip the valves to keep geometry right when you recess the valves.
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