LML Novice diesel guy here looking for advice

[jckendr1]

I just recently purchased a 2011 duramax and I plan on installing a 4" down pipe back dpf delete with a h&s mini maxx in the next couple of weeks. I don't do a lot of pulling with the truck, I just want to increase fuel mileage and longevity of the engine. the only time the truck will actually pull a load is during hunting season when I pull a 30ft camper around. so my question is, with the info I just gave, do I need to do an egr delete or is turning it off with the mini maxx good enough?

P.S. sorry for asking what has been asked 100 times on the forums before, but every thread I read gets off topic quick leaving me with unanswered questions.

thanks guys

 

[Burn Down]

Personally, I would do efi live and a blocker plate on the egr and call it good.

 

[2004LB7]

And if you are looking for some long time reliability, maybe swap out the CP4 for a CP3

 

[jckendr1]

what would be the difference between the efi live and the h&s?

 

[Awenta]

what would be the difference between the efi live and the h&s?

Efi will always be customizable if you want to change something or end up doing any upgrades. The h&s is preset and you're stuck with what they made.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jckendr1]

I gotcha. thanks for the advice. I ended up going with the mini maxx and a race pipe to delete the cat and dpf. I don't have tons of money on hand so im forced to work in stages. I plan on doing the egr delete next. any recommendations on whether the block plate is just as good as the delete with a new up pipe?

 

[AZlml]

If you're going to do the egr delete then actually delete it and not just block it off. Remove the huge hunk of junk and never look back. I was blown away at how much garbage was involved with it when I removed mine. I also got new manifolds, up pipes, down pipe exhaust, cp3, etc..

 

[c20elephant]

:thumb:

I just recently purchased a 2011 duramax and I plan on installing a 4" down pipe back dpf delete with a h&s mini maxx in the next couple of weeks. I don't do a lot of pulling with the truck, I just want to increase fuel mileage and longevity of the engine. the only time the truck will actually pull a load is during hunting season when I pull a 30ft camper around. so my question is, with the info I just gave, do I need to do an egr delete or is turning it off with the mini maxx good enough?

P.S. sorry for asking what has been asked 100 times on the forums before, but every thread I read gets off topic quick leaving me with unanswered questions.

thanks guys

What people don't realize is if you delete/remove any emissions equipment you're are responsible for any cost to bring it back into compliance, subject to the fines even after you have sold it per the EPA. Leave the equipment on there, tune it out with EFI and drive it...

Edit:

I would email Ben and see what he has to offer in the link below, his approach looks like a much better alternative to some I have read about due to the unique use of the BCM...:thumb:


http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75287

If you're going to do the egr delete then actually delete it and not just block it off. Remove the huge hunk of junk and never look back. I was blown away at how much garbage was involved with it when I removed mine. I also got new manifolds, up pipes, down pipe exhaust, cp3, etc..

How are you passing emissions living in Glendale Az. unless you have registered outside of Maricopa County or the truck is not old enough to be required to have an emissions test, yet....

IMHO Arizona is on its last leg of the system being used now as I recall when it was implemented and the buildings they're operating out of were built. The only upgrade is the CARB OBD-II test and your truck will fail....

Mine, passes the visual and opacity every year and runs like a top. Will it pass an OBD-II readiness test, won't know till it happens and I'm already prepared to address it.........:thumb:

 

[Hoffie]

Just turn off the erg and install blocker plates. I have the 4" exhaust with FloPro muffler. Mine has been that way for the past 250k and no issues.Truck ran great. I did have register my truck in Holbrook.
Install a lift pump and use the grey bottle fuel additive/lubricant(found at any truck stop or auto parts store) at every fill up and you could get 500k miles out of the stock CP4 setup like I did.

 

[AZlml]

:thumb:

How are you passing emissions living in Glendale Az. unless you have registered outside of Maricopa County or the truck is not old enough to be required to have an emissions test, yet....

IMHO Arizona is on its last leg of the system being used now as I recall when it was implemented and the buildings they're operating out of were built. The only upgrade is the CARB OBD-II test and your truck will fail....

Mine, passes the visual and opacity every year and runs like a top. Will it pass an OBD-II readiness test, won't know till it happens and I'm already prepared to address it.........:thumb:

Register up in Prescott. I was shocked at the amount of soot and oil throughout the whole intake system. Intake y-bridge had easily a 1/4" of soot caked on it at only has 86k miles. Oil was close to pooling in the intercooler tubes as well. Ill take the chance with no emissions to have a healthy reliable vehicle.

 

[jckendr1]

i live in ms so fortunately we don't have the environmental regulations that some of you guys have to deal with. so having said that, emissions equipment will never go back on my truck. everyone rolls coal in the south :thumb: