Not stuck yet, but close. In Norfolk
- Thread starter N2BRK
- Start date
Thats normal, just shined up from the suspension traveling up and down, making the driveshaft move in and out. If you want to check the joints, you are going to have to take the drive shaft out and inspect them. Keep driving it and it has a bad joint, might end up breaking the rear adpater housing on the trans.
Thanks. I kinda thought it was ok but I'm a bit flustered. I've been home for 10mins after a 5hr ride home, hoping it would make it. I have to be out at 7am for one aunt's funeral, and then on the way home another aunt died, and my wife's alternator crapped out. I need a vacation from my vacation now, lol.
I'll pull the sob ASAP. Thanks.
I'll pull the sob ASAP. Thanks.
That's normal. If you drop the shaft you can polish off the gunk. Over time, a buildup could hinder the forward/aft movement of the skip yoke. Your seal looks good so I wouldn't necessarily suspect the transfer case. The u joints look rusty enough to warrant checking, if you haven't already. You really should pull the shaft and rotate each cup to make sure. It could still be a brake or backing plate issue.
I guess I now don't understand.
The OEM part is the 1485, but you felt the 1480 was a better choice because it is stronger? If it does not fit without modification, is it really stronger?
I'm trying to determine, if while under the truck next week amidst EGR delete, up pipe, downpipe, hot side tube, front u joints, brakes and a tranny service; if I might go ahead and purchase spicer u-joints as well to replace the Moogs I had installed a few months ago on the rear shaft.
The moogs I got were 1480 series, but my squeak is still very present. The Ujoints installed without complication or difficulty, but in the effort to make my truck quiet if I wonder if I should get the OEM drop in 1485 from Spicer and call it a day.
The OEM part is the 1485, but you felt the 1480 was a better choice because it is stronger? If it does not fit without modification, is it really stronger?
I'm trying to determine, if while under the truck next week amidst EGR delete, up pipe, downpipe, hot side tube, front u joints, brakes and a tranny service; if I might go ahead and purchase spicer u-joints as well to replace the Moogs I had installed a few months ago on the rear shaft.
The moogs I got were 1480 series, but my squeak is still very present. The Ujoints installed without complication or difficulty, but in the effort to make my truck quiet if I wonder if I should get the OEM drop in 1485 from Spicer and call it a day.
Not questioning your choices, just trying to get more understanding of specifics when it comes to components. I like to know as much as possible about this stuff.
Why is it the 1480 is stronger? I too went with the 1480 (Moog) but only because it was the part number associated with the truck and not for other reasoning. Soon-ish I intend to start planning for a rear end build, and I feel this info may help me along the way.
Thanks
Why is it the 1480 is stronger? I too went with the 1480 (Moog) but only because it was the part number associated with the truck and not for other reasoning. Soon-ish I intend to start planning for a rear end build, and I feel this info may help me along the way.
Thanks
Why is the 1480 stronger? Simple answer is that it's larger. Longer answer is that it's wider which allows for more strength at higher misalignment angles. Also it has no passageways carved for grease so it's stronger than a greasable unit. How much stronger than a 1485, I have not seen data for torque on the 1485 so I can't give hard data. There are stronger joints but they are for rock bouncers that get lubed after every event; not streetable.