LB7: No start issue lb7

[ryanslb7]

Hello guys, I've posted here before regarding the same issue. It was resolved previosly. The issue was I would have a no crank no start. I put the key to on and all dash works nothing out of the normal, go to crank the truck and nothing. Now before I took it into a shop. They spent time on it only to charge me $450 to replace the ignition switch. This was about 14k miles ago. And about 8
Months. Today the same exact issue happened, of course my first reaction was to check all fuses. Nothing wrong, next tested my batteries (which were replaced last month) all good. Onto the starter relay, replaced it same issue. So now my next step is the ignition switch. But before that I tried something A friend of mine told me, i took a wire and bridged it in the fuse box on the starter relay from the 30 prong to the 87 prong, with the key turned to on it starts the truck. So based on what the shop told me last time I went and replaced the ignition switch. Still nothing. So I temporarily took 2 wires from where the starter relay plugs in and ran them too a push button, which allows me to start the truck. I can't seem to figure out the actual issue. Sorry for such a long post but any help would be greatly appreciated !!

 

[aashton1206]

Go to a shop and ask if they have a meggar to test the insulation on the starter, as well as ohm it out. It sound like you have a starter going out.


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

 

[ryanslb7]

I thought so too but when I jump the relay in the fuse box it starts every, I think it's gotta have something to do between the ignition and the fuse box

 

[Tothemax]

check under the fuse block. mice like to make a nest under there and eat wires.

 

[ryanslb7]

I looked under it today, I did see 1 wire that didn't look to great but I was trying to trace the wires to which fuses they go too and it didn't look like it had anything to do with ignition/ starting but my next stop is to repair that wire that I saw that I didn't like

 

[aashton1206]

No no no your thinking of the now, think instead of the then. Like this, suppose you starter is good. Over time the insulation wears out, it arcs out and that’s how most fail. Now, before they fail but while the insulation is degrading and building excess heat the relay has to support an increased draw do to the high resistance because of the higher heat. A failed starter relay is a precursor to a failed starter, every time. When you have a small electronic component fail the device it controls is usually what caused the controller(starter relay) to be subjected to extraordinary circumstance. Always ask why it failed


2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Platinum AGM Duralast, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.

 

[torqued2dmax]

Good to know , and makes sense and may help out many others . Thanks !

 

[duramax on fire]

The first thing you should do every time is see if you have 12volts to the starter solenoid when you have a no crank situation. Eliminates a lot of the guessing.

 

[duramax on fire]

Also double check your grounds to your battery's. Make sure the bolt is tight and the cable doesn't spin or is loose!! The bolt can be tight but cable will move.

 

[duramax on fire]

One more thing. Check to see if your starter bolts are tight. I worked on a buddy's 03 dmax the other day for a no start condition. He's owned this truck since new. A crawl under and the damn bolts are loose. I'm still scratching my head over that one. No reason for 14 year old truck to up and loosen bolts. Maybe a shop backed them off a hair. I wouldn't put it past some. There's a lot of crooked mechanics.

 

[warriorcustoms]

If the old one & New one aint workin Id start Tracin wires!!! An ohm meter or Power Probe will Help that quest in finding the issue... Inless both switches are made in China!!! Double check the Install & make Sure nothins Unplugged... Since You can jump around it Id go over the part of the circuit between there & the faulty part to find it!!! Might be insulation worn or a Damn Mouse!!! I had a couple livin in a Blazer once LoL