No start after HG.

[SAVAGE77]

Yea it's another one of those threads. As soon as the ignition is on, I get a SES light, but nothing shows up on my scanner??? I'm pretty sure I have a fuel leak. I'm working to trace that down also. My luck I'm going to get to tear the pass side back down. I'm beginning to feel defeated on this job. There's nothing I can't fix and I'm a great mechanic. Just between suppliers, lack of experience and just my luck in general, I keep picturing an insurance claim in my future...

I guess my question is what would set an ses light but no code? And what are come common things to look for as far as a no start on these bastards after you tear them down like this..

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[SAVAGE77]

Also, will a variance in demanded fuel rail pressure vs actual fuel rail pressure cause an SES light but not set a code?

 

[SAVAGE77]

Ok. The fuel leak is at the high pressure line to the injector at the #1 cyl. I could tighten it up a little bit. What I wanna know, do I need to pull the vc and check the o ring on top of the injector? REALLY don't wanna do that. lol.. tired of working on this piece.

 

[Chevy1925]

the oring wont stop any leaks on the high pressure side. if its gunna leak, its gunna go right by the ring and into your oil. i really have no idea why they put an o-ring on the injector there. it doesnt stop rust from occuring thats for sure

 

[Dmax87]

I'm guessing this is an lb7? The fuel lines can be a bear getting them to seal. Get yourself a crows foot and a torque wrench and torque the lines to 30ftlbs. If you still have a leak you could try and remove the line and soak it in CLR household cleaner and attempt to re-install and torque. If it still leaks get yourself a new line. They're around $100 a piece.

 

[SAVAGE77]

So your saying the little bit tighter I got it may have worked? It seems to be leaking out of the boot to the injector and running back and down the valve cover from there. Or I should pull the VC and check that the o ring didn't roll? It was lubed before replacement. I just wonder what would make it leak from the top like that. Also when priming the system from the fuel filter head, It does get firm, however it doesn't stay firm for much longer than like 30 mins. I rebuilt the head as well. Thanks again Chevy!!

 

[SAVAGE77]

Dmax, should I worry about getting it too tight? Is thread stripping common with these things? I didn't spec torque it, however I feel pretty confident it's at 30ft-lbs. The biggest biatch is that the culprit is the high pressure line beneath the FICM.. These damn things were not built to be wrench friendly lol...

 

[Dmax87]

Yeah they're a pain. There's nothing that takes only 2 hours to do on em it's normally an all day event. I haven't stripped one but I've only torqued them since my first run around just tightening with a wrench. Where you are describing the leak is the exact problem I had. I wouldn't remove the valve cover just pop the line off clean extremely well, re-install and torque both at the injector and rail if it still leaks get a new line

 

[Chevy1925]

So your saying the little bit tighter I got it may have worked? It seems to be leaking out of the boot to the injector and running back and down the valve cover from there. Or I should pull the VC and check that the o ring didn't roll? It was lubed before replacement. I just wonder what would make it leak from the top like that. Also when priming the system from the fuel filter head, It does get firm, however it doesn't stay firm for much longer than like 30 mins. I rebuilt the head as well. Thanks again Chevy!!

as with any threaded coupling, you should worry about over tightening but you can get these fittings pretty damn tight. a GOOD open ended wrench is your friend so you dont round off the edges. Dont worry about the o-ring, it wont do a thing for the fuel leak, it sounds as though you just didnt get the fitting tight enough or you need a new hard line or you never cleaned the rust build up and now thats hindering it from sealing.

did you clean all the hard lines thoroughly of the rust and crap build up that happens on the hard line?

 

[Chevy1925]

Dmax, should I worry about getting it too tight? Is thread stripping common with these things? I didn't spec torque it, however I feel pretty confident it's at 30ft-lbs. The biggest biatch is that the culprit is the high pressure line beneath the FICM.. These damn things were not built to be wrench friendly lol...

that is by no means bad to work on lol. 6-7 bolts and its out of the way.

 

[SAVAGE77]

lol.. My luck. Can't really get to it at the line being under the wiring harness and other goodies they stack on top of the motor. It took me about 45 mins to tear down to the injector port of the line.. Thinking since I tightened the hell out of it I may just reassemble and gamble the time lost. I'll keep it posted. Also, what about the ses light with no code? lol

 

[SAVAGE77]

that is by no means bad to work on lol. 6-7 bolts and its out of the way.

Nah, not bad. Just nothing you can pull, replace, and diagnose real quick. I need my truck like 2 weeks ago and my extraordinary patience is diminishing on the tail end of this adventure it seems.

 

[SAVAGE77]

Gamble paid off!! Tightened it up, and it runs!!

 

[Slowmax]

Gamble paid off!! Tightened it up, and it runs!!

Glad it all worked out for you! :thumb:

 

[SAVAGE77]

Who said anything about all worked out... This is me we're talking about..

The aftermath is as follows: Truck had a rough idle that seems to have cleared up. No indication on boost gauge. Oil pressure only goes to about 55-60 psi on fresh oil. Oh, and diesel is POURING out from the high pressure line into the injector on cyl# 5 now..

I can assume that my fresh oil is now diesel saturated.. which will take care of my low oil pressure I hope.

The boost gauge is a manual autometer, So I'm betting I cracked the input tube.

As for the diesel bath, Am I going to have to just keep chasing leaks? lol.

 

[Chevy1925]

If you didn't clean and inspect the lines, then tighten them up enough, you will be

 

[SAVAGE77]

=\ I pulled the rails with the lines intact. Figured leave well enough alone. I did pull one from #2 cyl to yank the injectors. Seems all the lines on the drivers side are ok (knock on wood). I did clean the injector sides.. Apparently just don't have them tight enough?

 

[Chevy1925]

=\ I pulled the rails with the lines intact. Figured leave well enough alone. I did pull one from #2 cyl to yank the injectors. Seems all the lines on the drivers side are ok (knock on wood). I did clean the injector sides.. Apparently just don't have them tight enough?

Sounds like it but without being there to put a hand on the wrench, i dont have a clue. i put quite a bit of effort into my wrench to make sure they are tight tight.

 

[DAVe3283]

If you didn't clean the end you did take off, then it will want to leak. I always pull the lines completely off and clean them all. Even then, in 3 injector jobs finally got a line that wouldn't seal afterwards. Bought a new line, and all was well.

Typically, if the fuel is leaking at the top of the injector, it won't contaminate the oil. It will just pour down the head onto the exhaust (so be careful). Even so, once it is sorted out and running right, I recommend a fresh oil change at that point.

Finally, the SES light is required to come on with the key on engine off per EPA regulations (to verify the light works). That doesn't mean there is a code stored. The only time the SES light means anything is when the motor is running. So don't worry about any phantom codes, it sounds like things are working as designed.

 

[SAVAGE77]

Sounds like it but without being there to put a hand on the wrench, i dont have a clue. i put quite a bit of effort into my wrench to make sure they are tight tight.

Lol. How many times have I had to tell people that exact thing. Thanks though!

Dave, I remembered that about the SES light after putting as much effort into trying to diagnose it. Been a minute since I was around cars everyday. I did notice my oil pressure didn't fluctuate with rpms as it usually does.. Maybe a sending unit on it's way out or something. Thank You.