LB7: No crank/no start/ no wts light
- Thread starter Canadaguy
- Start date
Agreed. ^^ door chimes run thru the radio
Odometer could be the cluster itself. 03-up had a lot of problems with solder joints and stepper motors
Does the switch still change 2wd/4x4 even though the lights dont work?
Odometer could be the cluster itself. 03-up had a lot of problems with solder joints and stepper motors
Does the switch still change 2wd/4x4 even though the lights dont work?
I figured that's what it was after everything you described. Unfortunately there's a reason why the previous owner pulled the BCM fuse and its not good. I'm guessing they had a BCM problem so they bought another one and tried to swap it in which wont work without being programmed to the truck. The BCM has to be programmed and synced in with the ECM. You're gonna have to go to a dealer and pay them to reflash BCM and "marry" it with the rest of the control modules in your truck for everything to work right. The rest of the problems you described a couple of posts up are all BCM related.
That button behind the key switch, might not be in correct spot, like crooked so it thinks key is always in, I played with mine like a kid debating whether to even let that annoying shit function when I changed my SIR coil.
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Yes it has a kenwood aftermarket deck(which i was assuming has the module that bipasses the door chimes)
I have not attempted to select any 4x4 yet it is still on the ramps- have a tank strap to change and a few other bolts to tighten up. Will check tomorrow. There is one more 30 amp fuse that is missing in 63rd location, any ideas? Ran out of spare fuses will have to run to crappy tire in the morning. If anyone has an idea let me know. Will update
I have not attempted to select any 4x4 yet it is still on the ramps- have a tank strap to change and a few other bolts to tighten up. Will check tomorrow. There is one more 30 amp fuse that is missing in 63rd location, any ideas? Ran out of spare fuses will have to run to crappy tire in the morning. If anyone has an idea let me know. Will update
Transfer case control module.....
that would be why i have no odometer and 4x4 etc lol. Ill fire one in tomorrow morning.
By golly i think we got it all figured out. First time on a diesel and it was all due to someone elses stupidity.. anyways thanks guys
that would be why i have no odometer and 4x4 etc lol. Ill fire one in tomorrow morning.
By golly i think we got it all figured out. First time on a diesel and it was all due to someone elses stupidity.. anyways thanks guys
The truck ran like a champ for 30 mins tonight with no issue. Other than the odometer and hi lo range selectors not working- but due to missing fuses. I have no idea what possessed anyone to oull that many fuses
Crank fuse
Ignition E fuse
Bcm fuse
Amp fuse
TREC fuse
The first go around i found the missing crank and Ign E fuse... just unreal this has been 4-5 days of messing about. The ignition cylander needed changing also part of problem, and then passlock relearn. But eh if youre not learning, youre not living. Ill let all know if that is all the problems tomorrow when i put that last fuse in
Crank fuse
Ignition E fuse
Bcm fuse
Amp fuse
TREC fuse
The first go around i found the missing crank and Ign E fuse... just unreal this has been 4-5 days of messing about. The ignition cylander needed changing also part of problem, and then passlock relearn. But eh if youre not learning, youre not living. Ill let all know if that is all the problems tomorrow when i put that last fuse in
You're on the wrong forum for that silliness. :roflmao: That canned tuna belongs on the "other" forums.
There is nothing wrong with the edge if you are happy with the power output and how it runs. It will kill a stock trans just like an efi live tune can.
Here's 3 fuses and 1 relay that will cause no crank no start. Noted with pencil arrows.
To check that starter relay in the photo set meter to ohms on terminals 87 and 30
Then run a jumper from batt+ to 86 and batt- to 30. The numbers are on the bottom of relay next to terminals but to hard to see.
With battery voltage applied you should see continuity across the other terminals. I.e. Switch is Now closed. You also hear a positive click as the relay engages and closes that switch.
Here's a picture of your start schematic. And your ground location.
Grounds G106, G100, and G105 shown at bottom right of starting and charging schematics. These are their locations.
Well all three grounds just reference that page I posted. But here is more info on actual locations. It only looks like G100 is drawn.
I'd start with inspecting and removing and cleaning all three grounds in terms of hitting the low hanging (and cheap) fruit first.
Hope this helps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To check that starter relay in the photo set meter to ohms on terminals 87 and 30
Then run a jumper from batt+ to 86 and batt- to 30. The numbers are on the bottom of relay next to terminals but to hard to see.
With battery voltage applied you should see continuity across the other terminals. I.e. Switch is Now closed. You also hear a positive click as the relay engages and closes that switch.
Here's a picture of your start schematic. And your ground location.
Grounds G106, G100, and G105 shown at bottom right of starting and charging schematics. These are their locations.
Well all three grounds just reference that page I posted. But here is more info on actual locations. It only looks like G100 is drawn.
I'd start with inspecting and removing and cleaning all three grounds in terms of hitting the low hanging (and cheap) fruit first.
Hope this helps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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