LB7: No compression

[dmaxfireman]

If you think rods are expendable, talk to the guys that have bent them and windowed blocks and ask them how expendable they are. In any build. if your planning to do a budget build and keep the hp below 600 then yes LBZ/LMM rods will work much better than LB7/LLY ones. Which is what YOU are doing correct?

It looks to me this guy did a full build complete with stage 2 heads and a ton of other stuff-DEFINETLY NOT a budget build!! If rods were not done then I am at a loss as to why not. Who puts stage 2 heads on with a plan to keep it under 600hp??

for a single cp3 truck i think lbz rods will hold up to past 600hp (i will keep on bumping my power up until i hit 11s so however much hp that takes i will give it.) henry ran tons of nitrous through his first motor with a 4094 and single cp3 and his rods were all fine when his piston split. this motor i am doing will not be getting a dual fueler or nitrous because of the rules where i pull. i will build a completely different motor (low compression / rods / head work) if i choose to run dual cp3s and pull elsewhere or in the unlimited class.

so yes imho aftermarket rods are not always a must when you are building (or rebuilding) a motor. it all depends on what you want your truck to do. but i do hear what you are saying about stage 2 heads and the power lever he was at.

 

[05_LLY]

Sorry about the broke engine, it sucks when they fail stock let alone after a buch of time and money was spent to keep it from hapeinging! MY thoughts, ppe 10 and 150hp injs. sounds like alot of fuel at the wrong times.

 

[SteveFord]

Sorry about the broke engine, it sucks when they fail stock let alone after a buch of time and money was spent to keep it from hapeinging! MY thoughts, ppe 10 and 150hp injs. sounds like alot of fuel at the wrong times.

X2!

 

[TheBac]

Sorry about the broke engine, it sucks when they fail stock let alone after a buch of time and money was spent to keep it from hapeinging! MY thoughts, ppe 10 and 150hp injs. sounds like alot of fuel at the wrong times.

x3 That 10th tune is a heavy fueler with stock injectors....Id hate to guess how much fuel its getting with larger injectors. IMO, he either broke a piston or shortened a rod. My guess is #7 will only be the worst one, and the whole bottom end got hurt in some way. Only way to start is to do a compression test.

 

[ZeroGravity58]

if i remember right the PPE #10 tune has around 3150us. Way to much PW for the injectors hes running....

 

[LarryJewell]

if i remember right the PPE #10 tune has around 3150us. Way to much PW for the injectors hes running....

3350us

 

[JOHNBOY]

rods are not a must..... are they nice, yes, but to save 3k on a budget build they are expendable

I whole heartily disagree. With out rods its is not of, it is a matter of when.

for a single cp3 truck i think lbz rods will hold up to past 600hp (i will keep on bumping my power up until i hit 11s so however much hp that takes i will give it.) henry ran tons of nitrous through his first motor with a 4094 and single cp3 and his rods were all fine when his piston split. this motor i am doing will not be getting a dual fueler or nitrous because of the rules where i pull. i will build a completely different motor (low compression / rods / head work) if i choose to run dual cp3s and pull elsewhere or in the unlimited class.

so yes imho aftermarket rods are not always a must when you are building (or rebuilding) a motor. it all depends on what you want your truck to do. but i do hear what you are saying about stage 2 heads and the power lever he was at.

I know you think you can get away with it. Many have thought before. Some have but how have and for how long. Travis and Sting both got away with it but both knew they where flirting with disaster. You miss one shift and bog it down one time it is toast. Peak torque is a bitch. You need to stay as far away from it as possible. But to go fast you want to use as much as you can. Rods let you. They give the margin stock rods dont. You blow it I will be saying I feel sorry for you. I will feel sorry but I don't want to give false hope to people.

Saying rods are not needed is reckless.

I don't care what kind of budget your on. If you can afford to pull it out and tear down then you should put in rods!

 

[wdino73]

So I forgot ton put in my sig but I'm running Carrillo Rods bought from Guy, the only think stock in this motor is the clips that holds the lifter in, FULL BUILD, MOTOR AND TRANNY $35,000+

 

[wdino73]

According to a guy I spoke to at PPE levels 8 -10 shouldn't be run on a truck that doesn't have bigger injector and a upgraded CP3 system, That's what a rep told me, now if he's full of $^& I don't know, Thanks for all the comments an sympathy,:thumb: I pulled the engine Friday 6.5 hrs and I had it on the ground and drained by myself, I'm getting good at that, I also like doing it I should get a job doing the engine pulles LOLOL,
Ben coming down an we're going to tear the engine down this afternoon, I think I dropped a valve, but we'll know soon an I'll do like I did on the broken crank, I'll post my findings and plenty of pics,
Thanks again to everyone who responded and stay tuned

 

[gmduramax]

Who built the engine?

 

[wdino73]

I started at a shop an after some trouble I took over I built the short block,

 

[SteveFord]

According to a guy I spoke to at PPE levels 8 -10 shouldn't be run on a truck that doesn't have bigger injector and a upgraded CP3 system, That's what a rep told me, now if he's full of $^& I don't know, Thanks for all the comments an sympathy,:thumb: I pulled the engine Friday 6.5 hrs and I had it on the ground and drained by myself, I'm getting good at that, I also like doing it I should get a job doing the engine pulles LOLOL,
Ben coming down an we're going to tear the engine down this afternoon, I think I dropped a valve, but we'll know soon an I'll do like I did on the broken crank, I'll post my findings and plenty of pics,
Thanks again to everyone who responded and stay tuned

I can see running a upgraded cp3 to keep rail pressure up but not with larger than stock injectors. Sorry about your luck

 

[wdino73]

thiis afternoon with the help of my new right hand man Ben, we tore the engine down, we first checked the valves and the valves were way out of adjustment, I didn't adjust the valves in the original build, then we pulled the head and in the number 7 piston we found a nice little whole about the size of a #2 pencil, I believe with the valves out of adjustment, I was getting the blow torch effect with the injector, I think with the proper valve adjustment this wouldn't have happened, I know thier will be u that disagree but the more air u add to a flame the hotter it gets, no pics yet maybe tomorrow when I get the piston out.
THANKS AGAIN BEN I REALLY APPREICATE YOUR HELP IN THE FUTURE IF I CAN HELP YOU IN ANYWAY JUST ASK.

 

[TheBac]

Sorry to hear about it. Were the head/valves hurt in any way or is it "just" the piston? Hope you're able to get it back together soon.

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

The valves looked untouched. The head looks fine too, it did have just enough contact with the piston to "knock the soot off" but thats it.

 

[SmokeShow]

I'd strongly consider getting your injectors tested while it's down. There's an excellent place local to have it done. It ain't cheap but neither are multiple built engine builds.

And I PM'd you back.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Simon, he said he's running PPE on 10 - whatever fuel shot that is.

It sounds like they are the OE mahle lb7 pistons that were delipped.
Thanks Mitch, I kinda figured that just wasnt sure

And I'm pretty sure he has aftermarket rods. This is round two (now will be round three) on a built motor. If you all recall, he first started out on here cause he had problems on his newly built engine that came out to be a busted crank. He tore it down and rebuilt himself and now this after just a few short months.

Man I feel for this guy


IMO, he needs to get more appropriate tuning and get his injectors checked. That's way too soon to be having issues.


C-ya

Ohhh..... did you hit the nail on the head!

I'm sure he won't have a problem with sharing what it fuels, I just don't want to say without permission. But like Mitch said it was a ppe tune he was running at the time. I will say that looking at the big tune, it would be really smart to back pw down after its fixed though. I never paid much attention to it.

I am no expert but to be honest with my full built motor I am scared to run over 2800 pw with 40 overs IMO i see no need as my lil 475 turbo i cant burn that much fuel.....so i dont see the need JMHO

for a single cp3 truck i think lbz rods will hold up to past 600hp (i will keep on bumping my power up until i hit 11s so however much hp that takes i will give it.) henry ran tons of nitrous through his first motor with a 4094 and single cp3 and his rods were all fine when his piston split. this motor i am doing will not be getting a dual fueler or nitrous because of the rules where i pull. i will build a completely different motor (low compression / rods / head work) if i choose to run dual cp3s and pull elsewhere or in the unlimited class.

so yes imho aftermarket rods are not always a must when you are building (or rebuilding) a motor. it all depends on what you want your truck to do. but i do hear what you are saying about stage 2 heads and the power lever he was at.

How long have you run LBZ rods at 600hp?

3350us

Ya thats a lot of fuel with 40% overs!!! JMO but i really dont see the point of running that much fuel if you aint burning it.....Again JMO

I whole heartily disagree. With out rods its is not of, it is a matter of when.


I know you think you can get away with it. Many have thought before. Some have but how have and for how long. Travis and Sting both got away with it but both knew they where flirting with disaster. You miss one shift and bog it down one time it is toast. Peak torque is a bitch. You need to stay as far away from it as possible. But to go fast you want to use as much as you can. Rods let you. They give the margin stock rods dont. You blow it I will be saying I feel sorry for you. I will feel sorry but I don't want to give false hope to people.

Saying rods are not needed is reckless.

I don't care what kind of budget your on. If you can afford to pull it out and tear down then you should put in rods!

I agree 110%

According to a guy I spoke to at PPE levels 8 -10 shouldn't be run on a truck that doesn't have bigger injector and a upgraded CP3 system, That's what a rep told me, now if he's full of $^& I don't know, Thanks for all the comments an sympathy,:thumb: I pulled the engine Friday 6.5 hrs and I had it on the ground and drained by myself, I'm getting good at that, I also like doing it I should get a job doing the engine pulles LOLOL,
Ben coming down an we're going to tear the engine down this afternoon, I think I dropped a valve, but we'll know soon an I'll do like I did on the broken crank, I'll post my findings and plenty of pics,
Thanks again to everyone who responded and stay tuned

I am kinda confused as to the PW in that 3350 is a huge shot IMO for 40 overs? Why would PPE say that that tune is only for bigger injectors?

Guys! As injector size increase you decrease PW and Timing! So someone saying that tune is ONLY for bigger inj and cp3s is odd?That SHOULD mean your tune is actually safer to run if you didnt have bigger sticks and modded cp3s,NO?
I have many friends that have run PPE tunes for a long time and they love them.....So i have no reason to bash them.

However, I will wait to talk to Dan over anyone else to get a straight answer.



To me from what ive read... It sounds like you had so much fuel that it stayed open long enough to burn the piston( Ive done this myself with stock injectors )Dino i feel bad and have a ton of respect for you! To do this yourself and still have the ambition to carry on:thumb::thumb::thumb:



Dino you are AWSOME and I wish you the best of luck!!!

 

[sweetdiesel]

I'd strongly consider getting your injectors tested while it's down. There's an excellent place local to have it done. It ain't cheap but neither are multiple built engine builds.

And I PM'd you back.

Ya know Mitch I agree with that statement and had SoCal do my 100 overs

However, what happpens after every run? we wash these injector holes ever time we start the truck!NO?And then what dooes that test really mean????

JUST A THOUGHT

 

[TrentNell]

Ohhh..... did you hit the nail on the head!



I am no expert but to be honest with my full built motor I am scared to run over 2800 pw with 40 overs IMO i see no need as my lil 475 turbo i cant burn that much fuel.....so i dont see the need JMHO


How long have you run LBZ rods at 600hp?



Ya thats a lot of fuel with 40% overs!!! JMO but i really dont see the point of running that much fuel if you aint burning it.....Again JMO



I agree 110%



I am kinda confused as to the PW in that 3350 is a huge shot IMO for 40 overs? Why would PPE say that that tune is only for bigger injectors?

Guys! As injector size increase you decrease PW and Timing! So someone saying that tune is ONLY for bigger inj and cp3s is odd?That SHOULD mean your tune is actually safer to run if you didnt have bigger sticks and modded cp3s,NO?
I have many friends that have run PPE tunes for a long time and they love them.....So i have no reason to bash them.

However, I will wait to talk to Dan over anyone else to get a straight answer.



To me from what ive read... It sounds like you had so much fuel that it stayed open long enough to burn the piston( Ive done this myself with stock injectors )Dino i feel bad and have a ton of respect for you! To do this yourself and still have the ambition to carry on:thumb::thumb::thumb:



Dino you are AWSOME and I wish you the best of luck!!!

I fully agree Simon with all the above , And to the OP give me a shout if you have a minute , if you dont get the tuning and a good bit of other stuff on your truck setup properly then it will continue to break , built motor's are stronger but not even close to bullet proof , but can be close if your T's are crossed and your I's are dotted . pm me and i will give you my # .

 

[SmokeShow]

Dean, PLEASE take the above gentlemen's GENEROUS offer!!!


And yes, Simon, the minute they are ran, the injectors get worse everytime. But it'd be nice to KNOW you are starting off right. IIRC, he's running II injectors and my contact at the injection shop says they've had more II injectors bad than good. It'd be nice IMO to confirm them as one or the other before putting it back together.

Dean, are you SURE the injectors are 150% OVER or are they 150HP injectors? That's a BIG difference. I'd imagine they are 150HP injectors, not 150% overbore injectors unless you ordered them that way from a honing company or something. Just really wondering about your injectors. IT IS VITAL TO YOUR TUNING TO KNOW WHAT THEY ARE FOR SURE! :thumb: Just trying to help you check all the bases and trent will definitely help you with that better than ever could!! PLEASE CALL HIM!!!


C-ya