Nitrous activation

[TowU4Free]

Give this thing a little bump... Any of care to educate me on Nitrous? I want to put together a kit like i did with my methanol but i dont know the "Ins and outs" . Ive found a deal on a kit off a EFI fox body (tank,box,solenoid/purge thing) for 200 obo but a whole diesel kit from zex new is less than $400. Also, im running twin pumps and 100s stock internals (Yes i know borrowed time) But i could clean the fuel up a little with spray its just one thing i dont know much about.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

I'd like to set up a progressive/staged shot based off throttle position and have it wired to the DSP switch to match the tuning, or just have 1or 2 tunes for N2O, a standard performance tune, tow tune and stock..

My idea would be to have it work almost like a lock up box, so if I lay into the skinny pedal 95% it would start to spray and the window woukd be from 95-100% TP and % would increase from with TP
???possible???

 

[TowU4Free]

Im more of a "basic bitch" drinking pumpkin spice errthing! :roflmao: Seriously though, i want to use just a push button but its the parts im confused on.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

A button would be fine. I know nothing about the science and hardware of nitrous (more importantly how it all works together), but I wonder which way would require less hardware and be more efficient/reliable? I think I'd be cool with committing to having it into the tuning...IF it could be wired in off the DSP and the N2O tuning could be switched on/off that way. Id ALSO like to have a bottle heater activated, electronic bottle openers etc etc activated with the DSP.

In my ideal set up, my button would be in the wheel and would be the purge switch:thumb:

 

[TowU4Free]

I like the sound of that!

 

[Stancedlb7]

What are your plans with the nitrous?

 

[TowU4Free]

Spray at the track and dirt drags

 

[Stancedlb7]

How much hp are you looking to make? And what info are you looking for exactly? I'll post pics of my setup later today.

 

[yamaha537]

I bought the ZEX set up and basically used about half the parts it comes with.
At the time I wasnt sure what I needed so I went with a whole kit but its pretty basic. I did not use any of the progressive boxes or anything, I just wired a momentary type button to the solenoid and did it like that. I wanted complete control over when I sprayed.

The basics are a line from the bottle to the solenoid . from the solenoid to the nozzle in the Y bridge port. I took one wire from the noid and ran it to a "activation switch" that way the button was not hot all the time. than I wired from that to the hand held button than back to the noid. if that makes sense? it was really basic and it works perfect.

 

[TowU4Free]

Thanks for clearing that up. The kit might work then that I'm looking at. I think the box he has controls a purge too but I'm not sure. No gauge either?

 

[yamaha537]

some photos to give you an idea. I dont know much about the boxes I never even opened them. They make solenoids for a purge too but I didnt bother setting up a purge

 

[TowU4Free]

perfect thanks! What nozzle size (HP) are you running?

 

[SSchmi5519]

In the most basic setup this is what you need to get yourself hooked up to run nitrous.

You need:

-A bottle.
-Long braided line that runs from bottle to solenoid. (-4AN or -6AN depending on the bottle fitting size)
-Short braided line that runs from solenoid to spray nozzle.
-A nozzle. (basic single inlet fan spray)
-A relay.
-A momentary switch.
-A standard toggle switch.
-A small assortment of jets. (I would start with a set of .020 up to maybe .067, you can get them in multi-packs of 5&10 i believe)

The plumbing runs as follows: Bottle>long braided line>solenoid>short braided line>nozzle. The nozzle holds the jet inside the threads where the braided fitting attaches.

The electrical on my own system runs as a basic relay does, only I run the switch signal that is in the cab through a toggle switch before it gets to the momentary so that the momentary isnt active all the time.

I open and close my bottle(its in the bed) manually a couple minutes before and after my pass.

A bottle heater isn't very necessary, as we dont rely heavily on air/fuel mixture ratio (as gas cars do). If the bottle is cold and down 100-200psi I have never seen a large difference in the effect of the spray.

Most any kit you find on your local craigslist can be converted for use "dry" like you need. Dry means nitrous only, not Nitrous/Fuel (which is referred to as "wet"). If you want to get a line that is the exact length so you dont have a bunch left over and coiled up, mount your bottle+solenoid where you want it and run a string from bottle to solenoid, then pull it out and measure it.

As far as tuning goes, you dont need a "nitrous tune" you can run the spray on any of the tunes you normally race on.

As far as what size jet(or "pill") to use, start low and go up until you eliminate any smoke you are seeing at full boost. Once the smoke is gone you have very little to gain from going up in size. This also goes for people wondering if nitrous will help them...if you run a huge turbo on stock fuel, and the truck is already completely smokeless at full boost, you will see little if any gain.

Steve

 

[clrussell]

In the most basic setup this is what you need to get yourself hooked up to run nitrous.



You need:



-A bottle.

-Long braided line that runs from bottle to solenoid. (-4AN or -6AN depending on the bottle fitting size)

-Short braided line that runs from solenoid to spray nozzle.

-A nozzle. (basic single inlet fan spray)

-A relay.

-A momentary switch.

-A standard toggle switch.

-A small assortment of jets. (I would start with a set of .020 up to maybe .067, you can get them in multi-packs of 5&10 i believe)



The plumbing runs as follows: Bottle>long braided line>solenoid>short braided line>nozzle. The nozzle holds the jet inside the threads where the braided fitting attaches.



The electrical on my own system runs as a basic relay does, only I run the switch signal that is in the cab through a toggle switch before it gets to the momentary so that the momentary isnt active all the time.



I open and close my bottle(its in the bed) manually a couple minutes before and after my pass.



A bottle heater isn't very necessary, as we dont rely heavily on air/fuel mixture ratio (as gas cars do). If the bottle is cold and down 100-200psi I have never seen a large difference in the effect of the spray.



Most any kit you find on your local craigslist can be converted for use "dry" like you need. Dry means nitrous only, not Nitrous/Fuel (which is referred to as "wet"). If you want to get a line that is the exact length so you dont have a bunch left over and coiled up, mount your bottle+solenoid where you want it and run a string from bottle to solenoid, then pull it out and measure it.



As far as tuning goes, you dont need a "nitrous tune" you can run the spray on any of the tunes you normally race on.



As far as what size jet(or "pill") to use, start low and go up until you eliminate any smoke you are seeing at full boost. Once the smoke is gone you have very little to gain from going up in size. This also goes for people wondering if nitrous will help them...if you run a huge turbo on stock fuel, and the truck is already completely smokeless at full boost, you will see little if any gain.



Steve

Thanks for that simple explanation! Now I want one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TowU4Free]

Steve, Thank you very much sir! Exactly how my methanol was setup.. now the infamous question. "how safe"....But before everyone flames me lol, real question here is , are we raising cylinder pressure with Nitrous, or is it making the cylinder hotter? Or both? Im running 100s, Dual pumps, and the 68R, along with a lockup box. I know these motors like to give up on wot pulls from the 45mph range give or take being as the large increase in cylinder pressure when the upshifts occur in the upper gears. I am however smokey going down the track.

 

[SSchmi5519]

Think about it this way: Without cylinder pressure an engine won't even idle, it wont do anything. We create cylinder pressure by burning fuel. When we run out of air(oxygen) we run into a wall as far as the amount of fuel we can burn. When we introduce nitrous oxide, we increase the amount of air in the cylinder, and thus increase the amount of fuel we can effectively burn. Then we are back to the first point...the more fuel we can burn the more cylinder pressure we create.

Sure we can easily change the point where peak pressure occurs relative to piston top dead center, but when you go too far you begin wasting your cylinder pressure and power to the crank and as such the wheels, begins to drop.

 

[yamaha537]

Steve pretty much hit the nail right on the head. That's exactly how mine is set up and it does exactly what I intended it to do.

Im not going to say any size jet is safe by any means. But I ran a .026 jet my first time and it literally did nothing. I wanted to get the 11 second pass so I bumped it up....Quite a bit.

I went to a .072 jet and that you can feel. knocked a good amount of time off my ET. The guy a few posts below this said he ran a .088 jet right out of the hole. I didnt have the huevos for that. the .072 did the job tho.

 

[TowU4Free]

What kind of rpms are you wanting to stay in spraying?

 

[Stancedlb7]

What charger are you using and how much hp is it making. Stay in the rmp range the charger wants to btw.

 

[TowU4Free]

68R dual pumps 100 overs.