New to duramax

[Emt364350]

Just picked up a 2001 2500hd, switched from a 7.3 ford. So I'm new to these motors. The truck has 209k and has sat for 2 years. So far I have replaced the fuel lines, rebuilt the primer. I was told the injectors were done all ready. What should I look out for or do to the truck since it was sitting for 2 years. It runs great, idle is a little funky once and a while but I figured it just needs to be driven<br />
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[WolfLMM]

Funky idle? Surging? Probably a sticky fuel pressure regulator. It is mounted in the back of the cp3. You will need a scan tool to verify that it is acting up.

 

[Emt364350]

It only does it when I'm slowing down to a stop, it kind of makes a lopey sound then goes back to normal idle when it comes to a stop, is the fpr something you can clean or does it need to be replaced

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[NC-smokinlmm]

Run some 2 stroke oil, the hpdi kind for newer 2 strokes. It will lube the fpr and injectors...

 

[LBZ]

I will never understand why people still recommend putting oil into a common rail fuel system. All it does is get caught in the 2 micron filter. What gets by does nothing but contaminate the fuel system.

If your going to add anything add a good fuel conditioner.

 

[Emt364350]

What would you recommend for a additive

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[LBZ]

Stanadyne works well. I usually run Howes products due to the availability of it. It's worked well for me.

If you have a sticky FPR running some through it may help free it up but I have my doubts. Probably need to just change it out-if that's what it is exactly.

 

[aashton1206]

I did a 2 stroke treatment then 55500 miles later I got blue smoke. 2 injectors were at 6 balance rate. other sets have lasted 120k give or take 5k. I run stanadyne all day all the way. Buy it by the case.


2004 Silverado LT LB7

Moded air box with custom 5 inch Steel tubing, Full EGR delete with fed up pipes, IAH Delete, fed y bridge, PPE Turbo Horn, shortened drive belt, LBZ CP3 running LB7 FPR, port/polish on IHI with rebuild, Batmo Wheel, PPE boost valve, 3.5 inch down pipe, Full turbo back 5 inch exhaust, Airdog 2 165, red head power steering gearbox, Tie Rod Sleeves, Cognito control Arms, Cognito pitman and idler arms, EFI Cory Willis Tunes, all aluminum transfer case, 33x12.5 nitro a/t on 20 inch Rhino lined American Racing Rims, 4 pair high discharge LED lights behind grill and under trailer Hitch, Rhino Lined bull bar, Bushwacker pocket style riveted fender flares painted to match, Triple Glowshift Gauge A-pillar with Boost/EGR/Low side fuel pressure @ lifter pump, LG Tablet by Verizon on flex pedestal running Torque Pro for real time logging/detailed measurement in realtime/gps speed logging, low and hi beam 4300k HID, pump rub kit, aluminum transfer case, @ 325k miles

 

[Novak]

What would you recommend for a additive

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We had an lb7 with a bad haze, like choke you if you stood next to it at idle and we went to the dealer and got injector cleaner, all we did was rigged up a rubber line from the fuel pickup on the pump and mixed the additive with a gallon of fuel and put it in a clear fuel cell and just idled it til the cell was almost empty, I didn't run it til cavitation for obvious reasons but if you do it this way you'll have to move the bottle around every 30 minutes to get every bit you can without running the pump dry.


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[NC-smokinlmm]

I will never understand why people still recommend putting oil into a common rail fuel system. All it does is get caught in the 2 micron filter. What gets by does nothing but contaminate the fuel system.

If your going to add anything add a good fuel conditioner.

First I've ever heard that, funny bc when you add it to a tank of fuel they sure get alot more quiet. I ran it only in my lb7, 100k miles worth with zero problems, injection pressures are lower and injector design is diffrent. I wasn't aware there is a 2 micron filter, where is it?

 

[LBZ]

That's your stock filter. 2 micron. Unless you have deleted it lol then it's whatever else you got.

The original filter that came on the LB7 was a 10 micron. The lubricating qualities of 2 stroke oil may get past that.

I don't think you will find a dealer or any fuel system manufacturer that recommends any oil being added to a CR fuel system. They all suggest just using a good quality fuel additive. The tolerances are too tight and any contamination can result in varnish and scratching in the internals of the cp3/4 and injectors. Many of the parts in there are actually sealed only by the tight tolerances and lubricants in the fuel.

 

[aashton1206]

Don't use Diesel clean either


2004 Silverado LT LB7

Moded air box with custom 5 inch Steel tubing, Full EGR delete with fed up pipes, IAH Delete, fed y bridge, PPE Turbo Horn, shortened drive belt, LBZ CP3 running LB7 FPR, port/polish on IHI with rebuild, Batmo Wheel, PPE boost valve, 3.5 inch down pipe, Full turbo back 5 inch exhaust, Airdog 2 165, red head power steering gearbox, Tie Rod Sleeves, Cognito control Arms, Cognito pitman and idler arms, EFI Cory Willis Tunes, all aluminum transfer case, 33x12.5 nitro a/t on 20 inch Rhino lined American Racing Rims, 4 pair high discharge LED lights behind grill and under trailer Hitch, Rhino Lined bull bar, Bushwacker pocket style riveted fender flares painted to match, Triple Glowshift Gauge A-pillar with Boost/EGR/Low side fuel pressure @ lifter pump, LG Tablet by Verizon on flex pedestal running Torque Pro for real time logging/detailed measurement in realtime/gps speed logging, low and hi beam 4300k HID, pump rub kit, aluminum transfer case, @ 325k miles

 

[c20elephant]

Just run the Parker/Racor PFF50216 4 micron filter in the stock position and some Opti-lube, the best information for diesel fuel additives is on DieselPlace. ACDelco does make some fuel injector cleaner see the links in the google search..

 

[DAVe3283]

I ran two stroke oil for 100,000 miles on my stock CP3 before I upgraded to a stroker. It kept the FPR going long after it would have cut out. If I didn't put any two stroke in for a couple tanks, it would start to lope really bad at idle. Put two stroke back in, and the lope would be gone in a couple hundred miles.

I don't recommend putting two stroke oil in anything with a DPF, as even "ashless" two stroke oil leaves some ash that the DPF isn't designed to handle. But on the older CR trucks, I have had great luck. The trick is to use a reasonable amount. Start at 1000:1, and work up to 500:1 if needed. If 500:1 doesn't do it, you need new hard parts.

 

[Emt364350]

Anything I should do to this truck being it has sat for almost 2 years

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[aashton1206]

If it already runs and idles good then your good. Duramaxes are stout and known for reliability


2004 Silverado LT LB7

Moded air box with custom 5 inch Steel tubing, Full EGR delete with fed up pipes, IAH Delete, fed y bridge, PPE Turbo Horn, shortened drive belt, LBZ CP3 running LB7 FPR, port/polish on IHI with rebuild, Batmo Wheel, PPE boost valve, 3.5 inch down pipe, Full turbo back 5 inch exhaust, Airdog 2 165, red head power steering gearbox, Tie Rod Sleeves, Cognito control Arms, Cognito pitman and idler arms, EFI Cory Willis Tunes, all aluminum transfer case, 33x12.5 nitro a/t on 20 inch Rhino lined American Racing Rims, 4 pair high discharge LED lights behind grill and under trailer Hitch, Rhino Lined bull bar, Bushwacker pocket style riveted fender flares painted to match, Triple Glowshift Gauge A-pillar with Boost/EGR/Low side fuel pressure @ lifter pump, LG Tablet by Verizon on flex pedestal running Torque Pro for real time logging/detailed measurement in realtime/gps speed logging, low and hi beam 4300k HID, pump rub kit, aluminum transfer case, @ 325k miles