here's a link to the "injectors direct" issue https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/injectorsdirect-com-beware.161164/
new head gaskets, now runs rough and smokes
- Thread starter IdahoMike
- Start date
Theres a small rectangular cover on the passenger side of the adapter plate, above the starter area, just behind the uppipe and downpipe. The gaskets on those are a known issue.
appears that is the culprit, what PITA to get to like everything else on these, but what a joy.... NOT.... Thanks gmduramax and The Bac, you guys have been a big help... Lets see what else comes up during this endeavor...
well of course it wasn't the adapter plate, still leaking, coming out the psngr side of the weep hole at the bottom of the bell housing. I did look on other forums. Other folks had/have this same problem but never said what it was, they just quit posting, how rude... So if anyone out there found the leak at the back of the engine let me know. I will continue the search...
Update: I was able to locate the infamous coolant leak. After crawling under the hood then peering on the drivers side around the turbo with a LED adjustable flashlight I was able to bend my right eyeball around the hoses, wire looms and other crap, I noticed some coolant on the top of a bolt head. I starred at it for a few seconds then out the corner of my left eye I spotted a drip. I had to hold steady and not breathe then there it was again, then again about every 5 seconds. Damn thing is under the turbo. This ought to be fun. I get the privilege of taking all the top stuff back off again, I'm getting real good at it. I think while I'm in there I'm going to reroute what ever cooling and fuel lines I can that go under the EGR, coolant hoses, thermostat housing and put them up where I can get to them... Has anyone done this???
yes, finally.... so I figure I'll replace the water pump while I'm at, it has a slight leak now. any suggestions on which one to use, should I get just the pump or spend an extra benjamin and get the full monty (pump and housing). I'm leaning towards just the pump as my housing is fine, unless there's something I don't know that may deem it unworthy...
Get a factory water pump, some of the cheap aftermarket units have caused problems with gear mesh.
When you pull your pump off, look for pitting inside the housing. If there is minimal pitting, just replace the pump. I've even reused the housing with pretty severe pitting before.
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When you pull your pump off, look for pitting inside the housing. If there is minimal pitting, just replace the pump. I've even reused the housing with pretty severe pitting before.
Sent from my FlashScan V2 using Tapatalk
I found out there was a banjo fitting leaking beside the turbo I tightened it and stopped that one. While I was checking it I seen a drip by the heater inlet pipes and sure enough that was dripping as well, the cheap plastic adapter had a small crack and was dripping. It was in a spot that was tough to see. I'm going to see if I can get rid of that and just slide the heater hose over the inlet pipe and clamp it. I rented a system pressurizer, hooked it up and found these leaks which made it really drip and easy to find. I would recommend if you have any sort of drip get the pressurizer and charge the system with coolant in it. My water pump is leaking out the weep hole, so I'll be replacing that this week. When it rains it pours...
napa has steel adapters if you want to go that route. the hose wont fit over the barb end without ALOT of persuasion and the ridge is so big, it leads to the hose cracking. if you put it on and just crank it down with a clamp before the ridge, it will work but runs the possibility that if pressure gets too high, it will blow off. I have done the latter without issue before but dont really recommend it. the steel adapters are good insurance.
work the plastic part in circles (try to spin it), once thats free, usually you push it in a bit, slide the removal tool down as far as you can while pushing in, and then slide everything back in a twisting motion. the tool will stop when it hits the ridge but the plastic nipple will keep coming off.
they are usually brittle enough you can break them with pliers too. Just dont go leveraging it up and down, try to smash it without collasping the steel tube under it. you just gotta get the outer casing area broke off to get the clips to undo, then it slides off.
Update: everything is running mint, and no leaks... I replaced the heater hose connector with a metal one, replaced the water pump, tightened up all the air piping and now my Mad Max is up and running again... Thanks all for the help in figuring this one out... I learned a ton about my truck from you guy's and am not all hesitant to work on anything...