Need some help and sorry about the long post. Just providing all info

Pure Diesel

Active member
Apr 22, 2008
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Ventura County
I need some help.

My 2003 truck has a 2006 LBZ transplanted in July of 2013. The motor now has 235,000 miles and the stock turbo was showing its age. I was going to just put a stock turbo back in but thought about upgrading. I upgraded to an LDS 64mm drop-in unit after talking with Brent. I also put in a PPE 3” SS down pipe. I don’t run the cat and have a 4” MBRP exhaust. I told him I wanted to lower EGT’s, while towing and maybe a little more performance. Said this would work and I wouldn’t need any change in tuning. I run a DSP5 from ATP on tune 2(60hp) I believe it is, most of the time and when towing. I just did a tow that I’ve done probably 20-30 times, with a GCW of 21,000lbs. My EGT’s were 1200-1300 deg.’s on flat land(in 5th gear), outside temp was 45 deg.’s and about 2,400 elevation. This about 200 deg.’s hotter than the stock turbo was. Also when I’m going down grades and use the tap shifter to a lower gear, I’ve lost that stopping power (have to use the brakes a lot more). Found out that a bigger turbo has less stopping power than a smaller one. I called LDS back up about this and they say I need to have a tune for this turbo to get it perform right, stopping power and to lower the EGT’s. They recommended Danville.

I called Danville about this and told them exactly everything that is done with the truck and they referred me to PPEI. I called them gave the same story and they said “yes you need a tune“ to make the turbo perform the way I need it to. I called back the next day with some more questions before I drop another lump of cash. I talked to someone else and now get a different story about “tuning”. They said tuning may or may not lower the EGT’s. I really need some advice on what to do. I’m really worried when I tow in the summer and the outside temp. is 100 deg.’s and what the EGT’s will be and keeping the motor alive.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

Ne-max

I like turtles
Nov 15, 2011
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In my opinion a 64 will not tow as good as a stocker. Witch is why tuners are stepping back. Especially in your exact scenario.
 

gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
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Nor cal
I’m not familiar with that turbo but any time you go bigger, you lose drivability (unless you go ball bearing or a fancy wheel). If you wanted lower egt while towing you should have made the engine more efficient (better intercooler, up pipes). It sounds like it has a bigger turbine wheel or 10 blade wheel which flows more air, but will never have the same exhaust brake capabilities.

If it bothers you that much go back to a stock turbo, port match the inlet from the up pipes. Get some RDL up pipes. Get a good intercooler. It’ll spool quicker, run cooler, and have more power
 

Nate’s Dmax

Active member
Dec 11, 2020
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All you need is some spot on tuning. We put a Danville 64mm turbo on dads LBZ and it lowered exhaust temps spools real close to stock. Everything else is stock as far as cooling and piping. Is ATP no longer in business or why can’t you get original tune redone? I wonder why Danville sent you on?
 

Bdsankey

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Feb 1, 2018
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In my opinion a 64 will not tow as good as a stocker. Witch is why tuners are stepping back. Especially in your exact scenario.


^Luke is spot on. We've used quite a few 64mm drop-ins with good luck but for anyone who tows real heavy I always recommend to stay stock or to throw a S400 over the stock turbo. Nothing ever seems to spool as fast or turbine brake as hard as a stock LBZ charger (VGT wise).
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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I need some help.

My 2003 truck has a 2006 LBZ transplanted in July of 2013. The motor now has 235,000 miles and the stock turbo was showing its age. I was going to just put a stock turbo back in but thought about upgrading. I upgraded to an LDS 64mm drop-in unit after talking with Brent. I also put in a PPE 3” SS down pipe. I don’t run the cat and have a 4” MBRP exhaust. I told him I wanted to lower EGT’s, while towing and maybe a little more performance. Said this would work and I wouldn’t need any change in tuning. I run a DSP5 from ATP on tune 2(60hp) I believe it is, most of the time and when towing. I just did a tow that I’ve done probably 20-30 times, with a GCW of 21,000lbs. My EGT’s were 1200-1300 deg.’s on flat land(in 5th gear), outside temp was 45 deg.’s and about 2,400 elevation. This about 200 deg.’s hotter than the stock turbo was. Also when I’m going down grades and use the tap shifter to a lower gear, I’ve lost that stopping power (have to use the brakes a lot more). Found out that a bigger turbo has less stopping power than a smaller one. I called LDS back up about this and they say I need to have a tune for this turbo to get it perform right, stopping power and to lower the EGT’s. They recommended Danville.

I called Danville about this and told them exactly everything that is done with the truck and they referred me to PPEI. I called them gave the same story and they said “yes you need a tune“ to make the turbo perform the way I need it to. I called back the next day with some more questions before I drop another lump of cash. I talked to someone else and now get a different story about “tuning”. They said tuning may or may not lower the EGT’s. I really need some advice on what to do. I’m really worried when I tow in the summer and the outside temp. is 100 deg.’s and what the EGT’s will be and keeping the motor alive.

Any help would be appreciated.

what rpm are you turning at those EGT's? 6th gear? if you downshift one gear, how does it feel compared to what the stock turbo would have done in that same gear?
 

Pure Diesel

Active member
Apr 22, 2008
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Ventura County
I've ran 12-1300f egts for many many miles on the hiway for years and my truck still runs great. As long as it's under 1300f I wouldn't worry a
I don't want to be pushing the truck this hard when I'm towing a lot. I have a couple of grades 7%-10% that I go on. I'm keeping this for a couple more years and want it to last. In a couple of years I'll be buying a new one.
I’m not familiar with that turbo but any time you go bigger, you lose drivability (unless you go ball bearing or a fancy wheel). If you wanted lower egt while towing you should have made the engine more efficient (better intercooler, up pipes). It sounds like it has a bigger turbine wheel or 10 blade wheel which flows more air, but will never have the same exhaust brake capabilities.

If it bothers you that much go back to a stock turbo, port match the inlet from the up pipes. Get some RDL up pipes. Get a good intercooler. It’ll spool quicker, run cooler, and have more power
Unfortunately, RDL doesn't sell to California. One of the people I talked to at Danville said get a better intercooler.
Again, I had to change the turbo because it wasn't working right.
All you need is some spot on tuning. We put a Danville 64mm turbo on dads LBZ and it lowered exhaust temps spools real close to stock. Everything else is stock as far as cooling and piping. Is ATP no longer in business or why can’t you get original tune redone? I wonder why Danville sent you on?
ATP is no longer in business due to the EPA. Russ from RPM motorsports did the transplant and the DSP5 install(tune ATP wrote it). I've tried to call Russ in the past and he's hard to get hold of.
The description of your dad's truck, is that not towing? How does it run when towing?

The truck runs pretty good when it's solo. EGT's definitely run lower(when solo). There is a slight spool up delay when you get on it but then it pulls hard. I did do one hard tow pull and the truck did pretty good. The tail pipe was very clean and the funny thing is it max'd EGT's was 1300.
^Luke is spot on. We've used quite a few 64mm drop-ins with good luck but for anyone who tows real heavy I always recommend to stay stock or to throw a S400 over the stock turbo. Nothing ever seems to spool as fast or turbine brake as hard as a stock LBZ charger (VGT wise).
I live in California and can't do twins and don't want to spend that kind of money.
what rpm are you turning at those EGT's? 6th gear? if you downshift one gear, how does it feel compared to what the stock turbo would have done in that same gear?
I don't ever tow in 6th gear. I've noticed that the tranny(Mike L. tranny) starts to get warmer. I normally run at 65mph 5th gear at 1800-1900 rpm. When the temps get to the temps above I was dropping it into 4th gear at around 2300rpm and the temps would go to 1100-1200deg.'s.

If it was a guarantee that tuning would drop the temps and I could get my brake/turbo towing back, I would do this. I'm just afraid that if I spent the $850 and it didn't work I would then have to go back to a stock turbo and now have to spend even more money. I would rather take the $850 and apply it toward putting the stock turbo in to what I know was already working.
 

08lmm72mm

Active member
May 13, 2019
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Saskatchewan, Canada
Have you thoroughly checked your truck for boost leaks? The bottom of the egr valve likes to crack and blow a hole in it. Any kind of a leak will bring up egts pretty good.
 

Pure Diesel

Active member
Apr 22, 2008
896
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Ventura County
Have you thoroughly checked your truck for boost leaks? The bottom of the egr valve likes to crack and blow a hole in it. Any kind of a leak will bring up egts pretty good.
Wouldn't I be hearing it if there was leak? No, I haven't done a pressure test on the system. Funny thing was, the mechanic who installed the turbo for me, said "Check your boost gauge and replace the hose feeding it. Your boost is low." I haven't had much time to investigate this. I'll see what my pressure is today driving around. I did buy a new boost gauge kit and plan to install it tomorrow. I'll try to do some more investigating on this before I go out of town.
 

Pure Diesel

Active member
Apr 22, 2008
896
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Ventura County
Have you thoroughly checked your truck for boost leaks? The bottom of the egr valve likes to crack and blow a hole in it. Any kind of a leak will bring up egts pretty good.
Well I was able to work on the truck today and I think I have a problem. I rigged up an adapter with pressure gauge and shrader valve. It takes about 12 seconds to get it pressurized to 8lbs. and I disconnect the air supply I lose the 8lbs. in about 18 seconds. I hear the air going into the system right where the drivers side boot is connected. That boot is about 2 years old and in good shape. I've soap checked as much of the drivers side as possible. I don't hear anything in the tail pipe and I can't here anything elsewhere.
My max boost is about 25lbs on the new dash gauge. Ideas.
Thank you.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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check your corners of the intercooler, every single connection point for boost and any sensor locations.

if you are not capping off the system before the y-bridge, you will get air bleeding off pretty fast from it going past open exhaust valves (if you are on overlap with the cam) and past piston rings.
 

Pure Diesel

Active member
Apr 22, 2008
896
154
43
Ventura County
check your corners of the intercooler, every single connection point for boost and any sensor locations.

if you are not capping off the system before the y-bridge, you will get air bleeding off pretty fast from it going past open exhaust valves (if you are on overlap with the cam) and past piston rings.
I took off work early today to work more on this. Was able to test from the hot pipe, out of the turbo, to the outlet of the intercooler and everything held pressure perfectly. Hooked an adapter to the inlet side of the turbo, before the intake heater, and I could pressurize it to 12lbs in about 12 seconds. It drained down in about 12 seconds also. Couldn't hear anything leaking anywhere and even took the oil filler cap off and nothing.
I've watched multiple videos of people pressurizing their systems and no bleed down. Are they getting that lucky with no overlap on the cam to hold, as James said? I know you will get a little bleed down from the overlap.
Thanks
 

Nate’s Dmax

Active member
Dec 11, 2020
203
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ATP is no longer in business due to the EPA. Russ from RPM motorsports did the transplant and the DSP5 install(tune ATP wrote it). I've tried to call Russ in the past and he's hard to get hold of.
The description of your dad's truck, is that not towing? How does it run when towing?
Yes it tows a lot of the time. Cattle trailer mostly. I drive It very little so will need to ask my brother on the exact temps it runs. He just got back from a 2k mile run with a fairly heavy flatbed trailer. All I know is he commented on the lower EGTs after the turbo was put on.
 
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Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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Did ATP build you an exhaust brake in your tune? You can always add an exhaust brake switch there's a how to on DP. I'm not sure the anyone posted it on here. It's not hard, but with you having a LBZ swap it might not be as straight forward.
I have a Danville 64mm and ain't super impressed with the EGTs while towing. I am towing on a 550hp tune though. It took a lot of tweaking on the vane table to get the EGTs down. I'm probably around the same as you and can hit 1400* pretty easy on a hill. If you don't find a boost leak maybe you should look at water/meth injection.